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Old 01-04-2013, 01:59 PM   #1
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Talking Broken Bolt Removal- Mixed methods

I have a broken bolt in a Honda exhaust header.

It is broken off about 1/8" above the flange.


Just enough to get a bite on it with some vise grips.


First thing I am going to do is heat it up with a torch.


Make the area around the broken bolt glow.


At this point , work quickly, lock the vice grips in place, and wiggle, DO NOT try to superman the broken bolt out on the first try.

Soak in WD-40, wax, engine oil.
It will smoke and stink, and watch for flare ups.


I was able to get about a 1/4 turn befor it locked up again and the vise grips kept slipping off.

Time to try something else.....

Get a nut that just fits around the broken bolt.


I used my old stick welder and welded the nut to the broken bolt.


Get a wrench on there, and keep working the bolt back and forth.


I was able to apply more force applied to the broken bolt and get it out.


Now with the broken bolt out, I can see why it broke.
A couple threads had gaulled, and sripped some.


I will let the header cool, then install a Heli-coil.
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:38 PM   #2
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I was hoping you have something sneakier than the blue tipped wrench and the ol' weld a nut/bolt on trick.
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:51 PM   #3
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Leafy... sorry! I only have about 2 more methods I use. The Whack it with a BFH, and drill and tap.
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:56 PM   #4
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Haha, ok.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:04 AM   #5
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Which is the best method for bolt removal? Please share it in details. Thanks in advance.
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removing broken bolts
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:40 PM   #6
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i have great luck with just drilling a hole in the bolt, about 1/4"-1/2" deep . spray with some penetrable lube, then hammer an allen wrench into it. sounds rough but, it works. allen sockets make it easier. remember, big enough wrench for the job but, smaller hole is better. leave some wall thickness....have your fun here...
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:46 PM   #7
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just say no to Helicoil if you have to use one. Meet my friend, His name is Kingcert.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomslack34 View Post
Which is the best method for bolt removal? Please share it in details. Thanks in advance.
All the info you need:

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...methods-70251/
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:12 AM   #9
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Great information thank you, I just have one thing to say and please correct me if I am wrong. But when you heat an area of metal this hot, and than quickly cool it back down. It makes the metal stronger, but it is more brittle. I feel like people should be cautious on what parts they heat up on the car. replacing the part because of a broken bolt can put a damper on a project, But better safe than sorry...

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Old 03-13-2013, 07:57 AM   #10
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Dang, i was hoping for something cool.

Like a bolt broken off like a quarter of an inch down inside.
I wanted to see you build up a pad on top of it with 309 stainless. Built up far enough to get a vice grip on it and and twist it out (or whatever method from there).

That was one of my the tests for my final in my tool and die class just before i graduated. I think i took pictures of it, someday i'll dig them up.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:00 PM   #11
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Why does everyone make reference to stainless?? It is NOT a structural metal for the most part. It is high carbon steel at best, with corrosion inhibitors. Most of the stainless blends do not bond well with regular steel. It also has a huge thermal expansion coefficient.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:03 PM   #12
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You do not need to make the part " glow". A few hundred degrees is all that is needed . And be quick about it. You want the outter part to grow slightly, while keeping the bolt/ stud as cool as possible.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit View Post
Why does everyone make reference to stainless?? It is NOT a structural metal for the most part. It is high carbon steel at best, with corrosion inhibitors. Most of the stainless blends do not bond well with regular steel. It also has a huge thermal expansion coefficient.
Um what? Most if not all stainless bolts you'll buy from the hardware store are going to be 18/8 stainless, aka 304 stainless. Which has a maximum allowable carbon content of 0.08%. Where as high carbon steel is in the 2% neighborhood.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:58 PM   #14
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umm, how many stainless bolts does your car have, or are we talking just generally? it is not often used on autos because of the plethora of other problems that can arise from mixing stainless with other metals. like i said, high carbon at best, often low.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:59 PM   #15
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watch this turn from "bolt removal" to a metallurgy debate..
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Old 03-13-2013, 01:13 PM   #16
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Because you're a knucklehead and turned it into a metallurgy debate i now must respond, creating a further downward spiral.

READ: 309

When it bonds with mild steel (what it's also good for) it has high tensel and rotational stregth. Good for turning a bolt out. If you were to use mild steel filler on the bolt to turn it out it would just bend twist and break off.

Credits - I went to school for this.

- I've never had to do this in a real world seniro. It's uncommon, and is easier to drill and tap. Though much larger diameter bolts (1"+) this is common and effective.
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Old 03-13-2013, 01:31 PM   #17
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And you had to start with name calling. Real cool guy.
Credit- real world experience. HA!
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:08 PM   #18
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So that's it? That's your counter argument.

Well done sir, bravo.


** Maybe try and learn something for once in your life.
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:16 PM   #19
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Im at work gimme a bit.

Your book smarts are outstanding! Teach me more please!
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:19 PM   #20
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I will challenge you to a fab off anytime. I have pull testing equipment if you really want to learn something, smarty pants.
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