aaronrossta

What are some of the most cost effective pistons/rods that can handle enough boost to get to 250hp? I know I said budget and I am aware that building the lower end will not be an inexpensive task, but all options are being considered at the moment.

I just want something reliable for canyon driving/occasional autox.

I plan on keeping the tune conservative because i hate breaking s*** but remember, for now I want 250HP.

skylinecalvin

iTrader: (2)

Cheap build would be ebay rods build w/ stock pistons.

afm

iTrader: (3)

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

Because I had a lot of beer and fell good

ebay rods with 3/8 arp hardware

supertech pistons.

ACL race bearings

borka

iTrader: (1)

Do what I did.

NA stock pistons with new rings
Ebay rods w/arp 3/8 hardware
oem gaskets. And oem headgasket.
Hone cylinders and clean block at machine shop.

this setup held together at 309hp on the dyno with a year of driving and 2 track days with some autox.

cant say the same for my 5spd. Nuked it this past Sunday trackday, pushing about 260hp.

aaronrossta

Does anybody have anything to say about supertech?

For the prices Im seeing, its making me wonder if its worth running these or if its just going to create more problems...

aaronrossta

6 speed time?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

8.6:1 Supertech pistons and Weisco rings is the standard for forged pistons. With a built motor a 6 speed is needed for the street and depending on how much power you make having a spare might be a good idea.

borka

iTrader: (1)

already in the works. I knew this was going to happen so I already had a 6spd and a 3.63 torsen sitting in the garage awaiting this day.

aaronrossta

83.5mm/8.6:1 will that work in my 1.6l turbo?

should I have the cylinders ported at all? my roommate is having his block cleaned/ shaved & cylinders honed so I could just have mine done at the same time if you guys think it'd be worth it.

appreciate the feedback guys. got my gears turnin

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

Lol, maybe

borka

iTrader: (1)

Do you think like maybe you need to so some basic googling and reading?

83.5mm pistons will be *perfect in your 1.6

*4mm overbore required

aaronrossta

Borka, thats why im here. appoint me in the proper direction! I'm trying my hardest to learn and educate myself but it can be hard to do that with no guidance.

I've had my miata for almost 4 years now. I eventually turbo'd it and with the help from my roommate built a megasquirt ECU that the whole car runs on. I just joined this site in late August 2018. trust me, there have been MANY hours of research and just recently I figured I could learn more from joining a forum on the cars I have fallen in love with.

not everybody is as experienced as yourself. A lot of other members on here are TRYING widen the grasp on the knowledge of these cars, despite the endless irreverent internet vomit of wrong answers. I TRUST this forum because there are alot of well known experts and people willing to help.

Ill admit that I know hardly anything about these cars compared to a lot of people on this site

But please do not think that I go straight to this site and make a senseless post because I'm too lazy to search for the answer.

skylinecalvin

iTrader: (2)

No, 83.5mm pistons will not work in your 1.6. As I stated earlier, why do you want to go larger pistons or change compression? If you plan on staying at 250hp, then you're fine on stock pistons. To use the 83.5m pistons, you would need to swap to a 1.8 block. If you're going to build a block, why not just start with a 1.8?

borka

iTrader: (1)

but I mean, come on. If you simply google 1.6 miata forged pistons, you will see they are 79mm.

you obviously know nothing about building engines, just run the stock engine, it's good to about 230-250hp.

stock engine is known quantity, oem reliable and cheap. And meets your power goal.

if you want a basic rebuild to hold down about 300-325hp. I already answered your original question. And so have other members here.

Angel French

iTrader: (1)

My current build is similar and I'm excited to try it out but haven't assembled the turbo stuff yet

themonkeyman

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Nobody wastes money porting the miserable 1.6 head.

aaronrossta

Jan 2, 2019. deleting my account from this site so i can go back to learning the hard way i suppose maybe ill be back in a few more years when i am on the same level as all you experts and want to make noobs feel like a giant asshat!

thanks for everyone who helped me. my car is healthier/happier because of you. but damn some of this community is just ****. peace

aaronrossta

for everyone saying building a 1.6 is stupid.


Engine: NA 1990 1.6L
BOTTOM END:

Weisco Ceramic Coated Pistons .20 over
Carillo H Beam Rods with ARP hardware
Billet Mains custom made w/ARP hardware
Long Nose Crank that was treated, balanced to over 9,000 RPM

HEAD:

Port and Polished
Kelford 272/272 cams
Ferrera Springs
Ti valves
ATI Dampener
Custom made Intake Manifold
Ford 70MM TB w TPS

Transmission/Drivetrain:
949 Twin Disk
1.4 Way Cusco LSD 1.8 rear end

Electronics/Fuel:
PRO EFI PRO48 w/flex fuel ProEFI » Professional EFI Systems (check it)
Digital Boost settings etc. etc. etc.
1650 CC FID Injectors
Twin Pumps
-6AN Feed and returns
etc. etc.

Turbo Set up:
Equal Length Header Custom Made
Twin Tial 38 MM Waste Gates w/15 psi spring
Borgwarner EFR Twin Scroll 7670 .92 A/R Turbo
ETS Custom 4" thick FMIC
3" pipes all around

Brakes/Suspension:
Wilwood BBK FLYINGMIATA set up
Stage 2 Flying Miata Suspension (KYB w/coil overs)