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Built 94 block, vvt head, nb1 manifold swap into NB2
I am in the process of improving my setup, and recently acquired a 94 short block, and a nb1 intake Manifold.
My current setup is: 99 block, vvt head and nb2 manifold.
Progress so far:
Stripped block, had machine shop hone, clean and check flatness.
Installed ebay rods with ARP bolts
New piston rings on stock 94 block 9:1 pistons.
ACL Race bearings (stock size)
Pulled the engine/trans from the car today and about to start swapping parts over to the 94 block.
so my questions.
1. On the 94 block, is there anything i need to know or modify to move over all my accessories, trigger wheel, knock sensor, etc...? or everything will bolt up exactly how its bolted to the 99 block?
2. 99 intake manifold, just bolt up to the 94 block and hook up to the car exactly how the nb2 intake manifold was connected? move over fuel rail from NB2 manifold to the NB1 manifold?
3. please see pic below, the current OIL feed bolt leaks and doesnt look correct to me, it seems there should be a much bigger head bolt there with a crush washer?
answers will be much appreciated.
Progress pics so far.
Current setup, before i took everything apart:
VVT Bolt (which i think is wrong) and leaking
94 block after machine shop
New bling
Pulling engine by myself. not as hard as i thought, the leveler is priceless if pulling alone.
And finally the reason why this new block cost only $100.
but besides the bent rod, everything is tip top, the bearings and races look almost new.
1. It should. The only possible inconvenience i can see happening is that if your oil pump is from a na, it can have a little nub that keeps a nb sensor from bolting up flush. Just grind it flat.
2. Correct as long as we are reusing the vvt head. Figure out a way to actuate the vics. Can be done with the megasquirt.
I put a NB style crank sensor on a 94 oil pump. It took a little doing. There was a cast boss with a hole for a mounting bolt, but I had to tap it. Also, I had to trim some material and shim out the sensor with a washer.
But the OP would never do something as foolish as reusing a used, unknown-condition, narrow-body OEM oil pump on his freshly machined VVT-equipped engine, so he should have the correct oil pump from Mazda or Boundary.
I will be moving over the oil pump from the existing nb block that i pulled out, im not sure if its nb1 or nb2 pump, but it worked just fine for me, including autox and a couple track days. cant spend $3-400 on a new pump right now.
glad to know everything else just bolts up.
any more details or maybe a link to some one swapping nb1 manifold into nb2 car? this is the only parts im not 100% clear about.
got most things sorted, im just not clear about the VTSC to VICS manifold swap.
from the research that ive done, the electric plug is the same between the two manifolds, so that makes it easy.
1. In Tuner studio for my MS3, where do i change the tune to now control the VICS valve? and what settings do i need to input?
2. from reading, i understand that i might have to source a NB1 fuel rail, nb2 rail wont fit. correct?
Never mind on the vtcs to vics manifold swap. I am an idiot. I bought a vics manifold bolted it on just now and then looked at my old manifold and lo and behold, they are identical. Lol. I guess previous owner already installed a vics manifold and I didn't even know it until I opened up both manifolds.
why in the world the PO would do such a nice build with a 99 block, vics, vvt, gt28, 3" exhaust, ms3, ducted radiator etc.... and NOT change the rods?? The only reason I am taking apart a beautifully running setup is to install rods!!
Soooo, i got the new built engine back in the car, everything hooked up, goto start and it cranks but does not fire.
Fuel pump is not priming.
upon some investigating, i found the 30A Fuel Injection fuse blown. install new fuse, and it blows as soon as i turn the key. and the pump does not prime.
picked up 4 more fuses $4 a pop!!! then unplug EVERYTHING. TPS, Coils, vics, alternator, knock sensor, injectors, water temp sensor. CPS, basically every single sensor.
Then put in new fuse, turn the key and pump now primes. so now i know i have a short some where.
any pointers to help me find this short?
very frustrating, i was all excited to see if my first ever engine build would even start
Out of curiosity, what are your plans? Just curious why you didn't go with forged pistons.
Originally Posted by Savington
But the OP would never do something as foolish as reusing a used, unknown-condition, narrow-body OEM oil pump on his freshly machined VVT-equipped engine, so he should have the correct oil pump from Mazda or Boundary.
Right?
Can the BE pumps be reused if there's an engine issue? I.e. can they be cleaned up if one is worried about debris. I'm sure BE could inspect them etc, yes?
Last edited by ridethecliche; 08-30-2017 at 02:02 PM.
Can the BE pumps be reused if there's an engine issue? I.e. can they be cleaned up if one is worried about debris. I'm sure BE could inspect them etc, yes?
BE can R&R their pumps for a fee, I have done this several times and it's much cheaper than even a new OEM oil pump. Contact them directly for this service.
Out of curiosity, what are your plans? Just curious why you didn't go with forged pistons.
Nothing wrong with using OEM pistons, others have gotten over 300HP on OEM pistons. plus the 94 pistons are 9.0:1 so already low-ish compression.
My goal is around 275-300HP max. so i dont see a point shelling out big bucks for pistons when OEM's will do the job.
The only reason i did this whole build is mostly for the rods, and i threw in rings and bearings for good measure. i wanted the peace of mind that i wont side vent the block when i go over 250hp.
My build is super low budget, between used block, ebay rods, rings, bearings, seals, machine shop honing and flywheel resurfacing, im about $700 into this engine.
In other news, fixed the frayed injector wire with solder and heat shrink and she fired right up. no smoke no drama, sounds great, has oil pressure,runs and idles smooth.
BE can R&R their pumps for a fee, I have done this several times and it's much cheaper than even a new OEM oil pump. Contact them directly for this service.
This is something I mayyy have to do. I'm guessing you wouldn't use one of the regular BE pumps for a VVT head huh?
Originally Posted by borka
Nothing wrong with using OEM pistons, others have gotten over 300HP on OEM pistons. plus the 94 pistons are 9.0:1 so already low-ish compression.
My goal is around 275-300HP max. so i dont see a point shelling out big bucks for pistons when OEM's will do the job.
The only reason i did this whole build is mostly for the rods, and i threw in rings and bearings for good measure. i wanted the peace of mind that i wont side vent the block when i go over 250hp.
My build is super low budget, between used block, ebay rods, rings, bearings, seals, machine shop honing and flywheel resurfacing, im about $700 into this engine.
In other news, fixed the frayed injector wire with solder and heat shrink and she fired right up. no smoke no drama, sounds great, has oil pressure,runs and idles smooth.
whats wrong with your engine that you need the BE pump rebuilt?
are you rocking the FM 2.5" you got from me? or you went with 3"?
I'm potentially buying a motor that spun a bearing. Guy has a BE pump on there and if it's cheaper than a stock oil pump it's kinda silly not to have it checked out for the cost of shipping. Just the pump itself makes the price of the motor quite attractive.
Still rocking your exhaust. Thinking of swapping over to something else...eventually!
cool. i dont know much about engine building, but the block that i bought cost $100 and had one bent rod. everything else was pristine, crank and bearings were great as well as the cylinders still had the factory hone visible. so all i had to do is slip on new STD size ACL bearings, rings and rods. Didnt even measure a single clearance. just assemble motor and install.
with a spun bearing, there might be crankshaft damage from rubbing metal to metal with the bearings. so a machine shop might need to turn it and go with oversized bearings.
took it for a first drive today, feels great, doing break in the next couple of days.
Need to find a good tuner in North or Central Florida, my car runs great and is tuned well, but i am not confident enough to mess with ignition tables and high boost to get to my 275-300hp goal.
Keep the FM exhaust, it sounds great, and can make plenty of power. i ran this exhaust on my nb1 and now have an nb2 with vvt and 3" catless exhaust from downpipe-back with the MT recommended huge muffler and i dont see any difference in spool. both cars hit 11 psi around 3600rpm or so. same turbo setups on both cars.
But it could also be my tune not being optimized for spool.
Met up with Jeff from Jeff Linfert Performance located in Merritt Island, Florida, to tune my MS3 and put down some decent power.
My car was running just fine, a bit rich and a conservative timing map, doing 9-11 wastegate PSI and making about 200hp.
Jeff went through all the settings, redid the timing table, fuel and a bunch of other settings to make the car behave as close to OEM as possible.
Car feels amazing now, much better throttle response, and much more power everywhere in the power band. overall i am very pleased.
We did the tune at 15 PSI, netting 241HP and 238TQ, on a Mustang dyno, which is about 265hp on a dynojet.
I can always up the boost a couple PSI if i wanted some more power, as Jeff tuned the higher cells as well, but i felt these are solid numbers that should not grenade my 5spd gearbox.
But PLEASE PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF EVERYTHING don't ever say something as stupid as "should be xxx on a dynojet". A mustang dyno can be manipulated to read however high or low that the operator wants. There is NO SUCH THING AS A "LOW READING STANDARD".
08-18-2017, 11:32 PM
Built 94 block, vvt head, nb1 manifold swap into NB2
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