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Old 07-23-2014, 09:43 PM   #1
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Default Built Engine lost power at 7600k and died in pit lane...

So was on back straight high RPM in 4th and the damn thing seems to lose 2 cylinders...car wasn't able to crank nor starting on compression after entering into pit. So back on the trailer and I needed few beers...

Changed the starter and battery but n dice. The crank was hard to turn so I remove the head and still the same. Now I read horror story with 2000 engines loosing thrust bearing even after a rebuild... Or could it be related to flywheel going bad?

Setup is supertech 11:1, Manley rods, heavy duty dual springs, acl race bearings....

Can't imagine this block is done after less then 8 hours...
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Old 07-23-2014, 10:13 PM   #2
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You check compression before you pulled the head? What are you running for an ecu? Megasquirt?
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Old 07-23-2014, 10:46 PM   #3
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Damn that miata has not been good for you... Cylinder walls and pistons look good? Spark on every plugs?

Ben
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Old 07-23-2014, 10:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gt2560rMiata View Post
You check compression before you pulled the head? What are you running for an ecu? Megasquirt?
Engine wouldn't crank so no compression test done. I'm running ms3 basic.
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Old 07-23-2014, 10:59 PM   #5
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Quote:
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Damn that miata has not been good for you... Cylinder walls and pistons look good? Spark on every plugs?

Ben
Same thing my wife just told me... Cylinders wall and pistons seems alright, piston domes are oily but no sign of detonation. Spark everywhere but when hot, (at the track) one coil was bad and not firing rightand t wasn't the wire itself. Fuel on the plugs so probably coil went bad prior to this...
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Old 07-23-2014, 11:03 PM   #6
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Push/pull on the crank pulley. If you can see it moving, thrust bearings are toast. Play spec is .006".

Also, drain the oil and cut open the filter. How was your oil pressure?
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Old 07-23-2014, 11:14 PM   #7
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I was about to ask about oil pressure too... Might be "just" a bearing job... Hard to relate the coil failure to the engine seizing though.

Want to codrive my car this weekend?

Ben
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Old 07-24-2014, 03:09 PM   #8
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Oil pressure was okay.

Yeah got the engine out and pulled the oil pan, metal bearing and debris... Will not investigate further as I contacted the builder and I'll bring him the block tonight or tomorrow.

Thanks for the offer Ben but I'll be camping with the kids this weekend. I hope you will co drive mine in September...
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:45 AM   #9
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Great, enjoy the time with the family, and it will be my pleasure to go faster than you in september
Keep us posted on the failure mode of the engine...

Ben
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:22 PM   #10
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I lost my reply because of time....

Summary, took some time for head inspection, cam, caps and journals are sad :

Pictures will tell the story.







This one was rebuilt last year by a specialty shop when the cam seized


Valves look good (no cam)





My car is pretty sad, all those track goodies resting on jack stands ...



Now seems like we have to figure out the cause ot this, monday morning I'll take apart the block with the builder and will know the story. Seems like oil starvation but why.

Now I found a VVT engine but would like to know if I can fit my RB header (99-00) to it. Seems like EGR plug are male on mine and female on 01-05 but it's plugged. From 949 web site, RB race midpipe is the same from 99-05 so my guess is it should fit.
Attached Thumbnails
Built Engine lost power at 7600k and died in pit lane...-img_19871.jpg   Built Engine lost power at 7600k and died in pit lane...-img_19891.jpg   Built Engine lost power at 7600k and died in pit lane...-img_19921.jpg   Built Engine lost power at 7600k and died in pit lane...-img_19931.jpg   Built Engine lost power at 7600k and died in pit lane...-img_19941.jpg  

Built Engine lost power at 7600k and died in pit lane...-img_19951.jpg   Built Engine lost power at 7600k and died in pit lane...-img_19981.jpg  
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:55 PM   #11
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Okay here's the failure mode... oil pump relief valve got stuck

Here's #1 rod :


Yes it did solder together

Too hot I guess...


Broken caps



Crank damage



Now I have BE oil pump, new ACL race bearings, 949 WP and ARP main studs on their way from 949 California...

I have a spare crank but I need another cap with those 2 bosses from NB1 or NB2. Emilio told me their the same.
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Built Engine lost power at 7600k and died in pit lane...-img_20140811_1627321.jpg   Built Engine lost power at 7600k and died in pit lane...-img_20140811_1628251.jpg   Built Engine lost power at 7600k and died in pit lane...-img_20140811_1633111.jpg   Built Engine lost power at 7600k and died in pit lane...-img_20140811_1628321.jpg  
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:03 PM   #12
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As soon as you posted the cam picture, I was like. You best check the bottom end bearing ya hear, cause thats where all the **** came from. I honestly think you're better off just getting a new engine to start with. That head, unless its ported and really worth saving is probably hosed, and that bottom end is going to require a line hone once you put the new main cap on there and then oversized bearings.
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Old 08-12-2014, 07:47 AM   #13
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I'm bringing him another crank that look new. Will probably need a line bore and will see for the head. It was a bp4w intake cam and I have a bp5a to replace it. I do have another head 99 and another vvt one..

North of the border, engine are pretty non existent or need a lot of work and are expensive.
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Old 08-12-2014, 08:35 AM   #14
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Ive had 2 oil pump seizures.

Dann
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Old 08-12-2014, 11:57 AM   #15
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I hope BE oil pump are better in this aspect, don't saw any report of BE's failing so far.

Rebuilding 10hours motor isn't good on my pockets..
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Old 08-12-2014, 07:53 PM   #16
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Those other caps are trash. Once you break one, the load on the other four increases drastically. I wouldn't trust any of them. The cost to acquire 5 new main caps and the labor to machine your existing block for them is going to cost more than it will cost to just buy a shortblock from a junkyard/breaker.

I broke a main cap several years ago. Kept the pistons and the rods and threw everything else away.
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Old 08-12-2014, 08:24 PM   #17
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You will need to pop the plugs out of the oil galleries in the block and head if you intend to reuse either and clean them with a bottle brush and pipe cleaners to get all of the metal out.

I had a oil pump relief valve stick and cause a rebuild because the dipstick melted and drops of molten plastic went through it. What is in yours?
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Old 08-12-2014, 08:31 PM   #18
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Is there no need to be worried about the block around that main bearing? I mean, it's basically been annealed at this point. Couldn't that cause future problems with cracking or deformation?

You're probably better off with a new (to you) long block.
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Old 08-12-2014, 08:43 PM   #19
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If you don't find anything glaring I'd suggest sending the injectors out for a flow test. You definitely have a single cylinder anomaly.
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Old 08-13-2014, 08:19 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Those other caps are trash. Once you break one, the load on the other four increases drastically. I wouldn't trust any of them. The cost to acquire 5 new main caps and the labor to machine your existing block for them is going to cost more than it will cost to just buy a shortblock from a junkyard/breaker.

I broke a main cap several years ago. Kept the pistons and the rods and threw everything else away.
I value this info a lot.. line bore is between 250-350 and I can't find those caps anyway.

Other option is 30K miles engine from 2005 with 1 year warrany for 1200$ and install my heavy double springs this winter and live with close to stock redline, anyway season almost over...
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