Third option, someone I know spun #4 bearing on his 03 and want to part his car. And saw someone almost giving his 95 block away on CL, running but with high milage.

Question is will I have to change my rings if I bore, hone and deck the block? Maybe time to get XX from wiseco but my super tech are new or almost...

BTW builder told me he cracked my cap because it was 2 mil off spec and all others we're in spec.

You DEFINITELY want to seat new rings after a bore and hone.

That's what I thought but wallet was asking I guess !

I have an other solution for you: Sell the car, keep all goodies, install on my car, you and me beat the shit out of my car. How's that? :dealwithit:

Ben

I thought about selling everything.....few grands sleeping

But mine is full caged tho... and you're 2 hours away. Seriously ?!?

Lol, logistics could make things complicate, but hey, if I can do anything to help, let me know. I totally understand your sadness... We need to talk about this around a good beer.

Fuck that shit... had some time to re-inspect yesterday to found a cause, why my oil pressure was still good ?!?

My relief valve was stuck CLOSED, so pressure was high. Bearing shows different layers like errosion.. So something got inside the oil pump, doing damage inside and ended up in the relief valve causing the pump to always sending all of it inside the engine.

Ever saw that ? By the way, some of you remember last year when this engine first started and seize the exhaust cam, probably some shit was resting in the pan.. oh I'm mad now.

Did your plastic dipstick handle melt? The bottom of mine melted below the o-ring and went in the oil pump relief.

Will check for it. We're you NA when this happened? I know the handle is broken and I tried to JB weld it...

Something strange is my ceramic coated header is falling into dust, the coating isn't right. Don't know if the engine cause that but the plug for overheating event didn't pop on the engine. Sorry I don't know the real term (English) for these metal cap...

You are referring to the temp sensor the rebuilders glue to the freeze plugs?

I was using a turbo when the bottom of the dipstick handle melted.

Yes it is what I was refering to. It didn't melt BTW.

This is what happened with initial startup last year

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408972473

Well I'm the new owner of a 65k km vvt engine... Don't know if I gonna run it with bp6d head or my bp4w...

It will be my spare engine but it will be my second Vvt head so maybe time to move on.

This engine is like new.. ran pig rich but everything lokking really good.

Do I need to clean it ?!?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409159209

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409159209

Too bad those are hard to run with MS3 and supermiata damper 36-1 configuration. Will use a stock trigger wheel and damper and keep it low RPM a la Supermiata series.

Cleaning that would only make it dirtier. LOL.

Probably true!

BTW it's not hard to run it with supermiata damper 36-1 wheel and ms3 but it's grinding a camshaft here, not just a pulley that is super easy to replace... And I feel hard coding for megasquirt and supermiata trigger wheel is around the corner...

Wow, great find on that motor? Where did you get it? Vvt will rock!

Ben

Engine was close and sleeping, it comes from a yard not too far from here.

Will run it as is no reroute for the last event in 3 weeks near your place. Just need to wire cops, get 2 coolant gasket, put the tranny and voilà.

Mardi...

I have a little question, I got my ballenger connectors for NB2 COPS but I need to know if I need to use NB2 ignition harness because of the black box behind the head (capacitor) or I can use my NB1 as seen somewhere... it works but the guy don't track the car.

Sadly those connectors don't click when you use them so I'll need to zip tie them...

Or maybe just add a caps with the NB1 harness... will that change something ?

So no caps needed, VVT + VICS = really good powerband.

Don't know if it's time to move on with such a good block... rebuild my other shortblock with 11:1 supertech, forged rods, BE pump and transfer those double springs on VVT head.

Humm decision decision

I would just run it like that. Maybe do a head refresh and install those springs for extra safety, maybe shave the head while you're at it.
If the leakdown and compression tests are good, I wouldn't touch the bottom end. Time to put some track milleage on the bitch!

Ben