cheap ati damper
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From: Los Angeles, CA
This is the same damper that FM sells isn't it?
ATI 918522 - ATI Super Damper Standard Harmonic Balancers – SummitRacing.com
$500 vs $600..
Is this the cheapest place I can get it?
ATI 918522 - ATI Super Damper Standard Harmonic Balancers – SummitRacing.com
$500 vs $600..
Is this the cheapest place I can get it?
Don't forget that you will need the timing wheel modified to bolt up to this. I bought mine used and this was an issue, not sure if the one from Summit comes complete or not.
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Republic of Dallas
What's involved in the install? I have a 99 motor running 1.6 electronics so I can just bolt-on and go, right?
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
I've heard of people doing it a couple different ways. Might be able to cool the crank, then heat the damper in the oven a bit and it will slide right on. That's what some of my friends in the V8 crowd do.
As for the timing belt, I will be finding out this winter when I change mine out. I haven't tried taking one of these apart, but since the material inside can be swapped out there might be a way to disassemble it enough to where the belt can slide ride on.
As for the timing belt, I will be finding out this winter when I change mine out. I haven't tried taking one of these apart, but since the material inside can be swapped out there might be a way to disassemble it enough to where the belt can slide ride on.
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
ATI Performance Products 918999 - ATI Damper Puller and Installers - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Not sure if the threads on that particular one will mate with a Miata crank, but you get the idea.
Putting it on you can just use the big bolt to press it on. Use a big washer under it and grease everything to keep from chewing itself up. Take the bolt back off when it’s synched down remove the washer then reinstall the bolt to the proper torque.
To get it back off I made my own tool. Used a piece of steel drilled 3 holes in it to line up with the bolts that stick out the front of the ATI damper. Drilled a big hole in the middle of it and welded on a 3/4” nut. It bolts up to the damper using the 3 bolts that stick out and a long 3/4” diameter bolt is threaded down the center pressing on the crank with a washer to protect it. It comes right off.
You will have to pull the front swaybar and radiator to get proper access to do it with the engine in the car.
Bob
To get it back off I made my own tool. Used a piece of steel drilled 3 holes in it to line up with the bolts that stick out the front of the ATI damper. Drilled a big hole in the middle of it and welded on a 3/4” nut. It bolts up to the damper using the 3 bolts that stick out and a long 3/4” diameter bolt is threaded down the center pressing on the crank with a washer to protect it. It comes right off.
You will have to pull the front swaybar and radiator to get proper access to do it with the engine in the car.
Bob
Putting it on you can just use the big bolt to press it on. Use a big washer under it and grease everything to keep from chewing itself up. Take the bolt back off when it’s synched down remove the washer then reinstall the bolt to the proper torque.
To get it back off I made my own tool. Used a piece of steel drilled 3 holes in it to line up with the bolts that stick out the front of the ATI damper. Drilled a big hole in the middle of it and welded on a 3/4” nut. It bolts up to the damper using the 3 bolts that stick out and a long 3/4” diameter bolt is threaded down the center pressing on the crank with a washer to protect it. It comes right off.
You will have to pull the front swaybar and radiator to get proper access to do it with the engine in the car.
Bob
To get it back off I made my own tool. Used a piece of steel drilled 3 holes in it to line up with the bolts that stick out the front of the ATI damper. Drilled a big hole in the middle of it and welded on a 3/4” nut. It bolts up to the damper using the 3 bolts that stick out and a long 3/4” diameter bolt is threaded down the center pressing on the crank with a washer to protect it. It comes right off.
You will have to pull the front swaybar and radiator to get proper access to do it with the engine in the car.
Bob
I should also add be very careful with installing the locating key. The first time I tried it I put the key in the slot on the crank first then tightened down the pulley. This resulted in the key sliding too far up the slot in the crank and the end of it getting squashed behind the pulley making it so it wouldn’t tighten down all the way and the pulley wobbled.
Everything has to be installed at once to hold the position right. Start with the key just deep enough in the slot on the crank to keep it initially aligned not all the way up in the slot in the crank.
Bob
Everything has to be installed at once to hold the position right. Start with the key just deep enough in the slot on the crank to keep it initially aligned not all the way up in the slot in the crank.
Bob
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