Choosing and Building an 1.8 Turbo engine for NA 1.6r - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Engine Performance This section is for discussion on all engine building related questions.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-14-2009, 10:11 PM   #1
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
Total Cats: -2
Default Choosing and Building an 1.8 Turbo engine for NA 1.6r

I currently have an NA with 1.6, stock internals, with GT2560R ball bearing turbo, MAF less tune, Intercooler, 550cc injectors, bigger fuel pump, Wolf 3D V4 Computer, running up to 14psi boost. Engine always has and still is going fine as I run the tune a bit rich top end to look after it and always run 98RON fuel. I have upgraded everything else in the car in readiness for eventually going for more power. I have a 1.8 torsen, mazdaspeed 6 spd box, mazdaspeed brakes, Tein super streets, full superpro bushes, front/rear subframe braces, frame rail braces, butterfly brace, frog arms, custom roll bar, sparco sprint V seats, as well as cosmetic stuff like new carpets, full respray in original colour, all new trims, new mohair softop etc etc but am undecided on how to proceed with the engine upgrade so would like some constructive advice. Currently around 220HP but would like to step up to 300-320HP, and still have it as a road car for occassional track days . My feeling was to get a low klm 1999 1.8 high port without VVT and build with eagle rods, weisco pistons, acl race bearings, arp head and rod bolts, put an ATI harmonic damper on it and so on but leaving the head as is (apart from adjustable cam gears) but basically going for what I can without making the car unreliable at up to 20psi of boost, which should give me the power I am looking for with useful gains in torque also once properly tuned. Not sure till I get to tune how efficient this turbo will be at that boost but it is responsive so would rather keep it in preference to a larger turbo. Other options would be all of the head work, valves, springs/retainers, billet caps and also porting and such but I would like to know if the gains of doing this would be marginal for the level of power I am looking at as the cost starts to really get away from you and at some point it looks better to do a V8 swap and I would really like to keep with the basic Mazda gear. I guess I'm resolved to do it but I'm looking for some Brainstorming feedback.
lozwozloza is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2009, 10:19 PM   #2
I'm Miserable!
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: where most people are Utarded
Posts: 1,323
Total Cats: 0
Default

put on your flame suit, this has been discussed many times!!
zoomin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2009, 11:18 PM   #3
Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central-ish VA
Posts: 4,449
Total Cats: 16
Default

220whp on that turbo at 14psi is WAYYYYY low. I made 200whp on a 1.6 with a GT2554R and a stock exhaust at 15psi.
neogenesis2004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2009, 11:57 PM   #4
y8s
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
iTrader: (8)
 
y8s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fake Virginia
Posts: 19,040
Total Cats: 407
Default

and a return key.
y8s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2009, 12:12 AM   #5
Elite Member
iTrader: (46)
 
Stein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 4,812
Total Cats: 138
Default

Geez guys, hammer a guy that has done more to his car than 70% of the posters here. He's obviously from outside the country which had to cost him double to do what he has done so far. Save it for the "which china kit should I buyz" crowd.

That said, yes, I believe you are on the right track with your motor selection. The 99 head will pay dividends. Forged rods and pistons-which compression ratio is always a topic of discussion here. Unless you are planning on raising the revs to 7500+ the stock valve train will do what you want. Oher than casting cleanup, you don't have to get carried away with porting. The stock head is good for 300. You don't have to get carried away.

Stick with the 2560 for now but it may run out of steam around 280. If it won't get you to where you want to go, you can get into a T28 variant which will fit the same mounting footprint as the T25's. GT2871 has been used here with success.

What are you going to use for a mani/DP? Plan on 3" exhaust all the way through.

Oh, and welcome to the forum.

Last edited by Stein; 07-15-2009 at 12:23 AM.
Stein is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2009, 12:46 AM   #6
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
Total Cats: -2
Default

Thanks Stein. You're right, I'm from Oz. I have done a bit of searching but they mainly relate to other peoples circumstances. Thanks for the advice, if I do what I'm planning and want more power a turbo swap could be something worth doing later but other than that I might invest in my own driving ability also as with 300hp it should be formidable around the track and on the road. Thanks again.
lozwozloza is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2009, 12:51 AM   #7
Elite Member
iTrader: (46)
 
Stein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 4,812
Total Cats: 138
Default

Yeah, you are already going to be investing a pretty penny getting the 99 1.8, getting it up to snuff, plus manifold and downpipe. It will get you to 280 easy and you won't have to touch 20 psi to do it. Probably 16 but just guessing.
Stein is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2009, 01:04 AM   #8
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
Total Cats: -2
Default

I was going to get the cast manifold from Flyin Miata with their cast downpipe. I got my turbo from AVO and the downpipe may not be perfect. Maybe the FM one is better. My current exhaust is 2.5" but you are right, with more air flowing a 3" might be the go also. I was looking also at the kit from Belfab with the rods and pistons. They also look good due to the lower expansion pistons. I'd be interested in any comparison with the Weisco/Eagle scenario as the cost is similar.
lozwozloza is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2009, 01:09 AM   #9
Elite Member
iTrader: (46)
 
Stein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 4,812
Total Cats: 138
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lozwozloza View Post
I was looking also at the kit from Belfab with the rods and pistons. They also look good due to the lower expansion pistons. I'd be interested in any comparison with the Weisco/Eagle scenario as the cost is similar.

That is definitely something you can search under "Belfab" and "Weisco". Lots of threads.

FM and Begi both have good cast manis.
Stein is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2009, 01:15 AM   #10
:(
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: nowhere
Posts: 8,281
Total Cats: 2
Default

200some odd whp at 14 psi? Dude that **** is way low, throw some WI on there and regain some of your timming along with a bigger turbo and viola 300 is atainable stock. The belfab rods are pretty damn good, and affordable fwiw.
magnamx-5 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS/FT: 03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege leatherface24 Cars for sale/trade 15 10-16-2015 12:35 PM
WTB 1.8 manifold and turbo (preferred ball bearing) AnotherDamnMiata WTB 13 09-11-2015 11:56 AM
New here, saying hi, here's what I'm workin with. SuperSneakySecretSquirrel Meet and Greet 5 09-06-2015 09:30 PM
Help Rough Idle Backwoodsballer General Miata Chat 0 09-04-2015 07:39 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:54 PM.