That sound pretty good. The only thing I might add to the end is letting the car idle until the fan comes on and turns off 3 times to make sure all the air is out.

 

Understood. Only issue is that I'm running a MS now so the fan coming on and off is solely to do with coolant temp from the sensor at the back of the head and doesn't necessarily coincide with the thermostat opening, which is my understanding of what makes the coolant in the radiator dip and push water/air through to the fill at the radiator.

I think we got all or almost all the air out of the system. If there was some air in there, it was negligible.

 

You drive like a woman if your oil temps are 250*f and you're not running an oil cooler.
Buy , start the car, pour in water, relax, wait for the t-stat to cycle, then run records at every track. This funnel is magical.

 

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Lisle magic funnel:

 

I generally have my fans set to come on at 210 degree Fahrenheit and then off at 200. So I know what they are coming on and off with the thermostat being open. It is probably a bit overkill to burp this way, but it has always worked for me.

 

[QUOTE=hustler;931956]You drive like a woman if your oil temps are 250*f and you're not running an oil cooler.

I was...because I was overheating. Do about 1 hot lap for every 3-4 cool down laps in a session. Cool down laps were about 20 seconds slower than a fast lap.

 

[quote=comradefks;932009]I've never been there, but I bet it felches abraded poz dump to deal with that crap.

 

It really did suck. Almost packed it up early a couple times on Saturday night and Sunday morning but decided why not go out there.

Ended up playing the drive it 4th gear everywhere and pedal it on the straights while catching my friend in his slow *** 240sx single cam around the track. Proved entertaining

 

So I guess my consensus is to upgrade the radiator, make sure my radiator cap is replaced and has a pressure rating that is adequate and bleed the system thoroughly. Also want to revisit my radiator ducting and see if I can improve on it.

Oh, and I drew this up real quick. I will make it up at work and rivet around the vent opening in the hood to promote heat extraction.

 

We have one of the Lisle magical funnels here but never use it. John prefers to lift the nose of the car up. One trick I've found for burping is to put the back cap on just before the tstat opens. Pressure builds in system and helps push bubble out back of engine.

 

wouldnt hurt to add some shrouding and "box-in" the radiator.

 

I have done by best to duct the inlet to the radiator at this point but I do think there is some room for improvement. Have been reading a few different ways to attack the problem and going to try my hand at some of the solutions when I address the radiator issue.

 

Pics of your setup? im trying to work out the best way to attach the ducting at the bumper and such? I had hoped to mess with my ducting this weekend, but we had crap weather.

 

I'll try to take some pictures of the ducting when I get a chance, don't have any currently. Basically had to get it done quickly so it's a combination of the factory undertray, cut of plastic sections of For Sale signs riveted together/ to the bumper skin and a ton of Aluminum tape connecting pieces together and sealing all the small openings. Also sealed off the top openings under the hood.

 

Most of this is ghetto because I rushed to get the car on track in just a few days.

 

Nice ducting techsalvager*.

*I vote we replace "peasant" with techsalvager. Especially when used to describe copious amounts of zip ties.

 

thanks hustler! That plastic looks way thicker than the stuff you recommended the other day, where did you get it? Did you have to pull the bumper? i have mesh in there to keep the IC safe and i also have to deal with that pita bumper opening.

 

You need to get a factory under tray on that thing, that single piece of plastic with no sides is doing little to protect the low pressure side of the radiator. IMHO I would rethink your shrouding as well, the plastic wall at the bottom of the radiator is doing nothing to direct air into the radiator. It is simply blocking off an area for the air to bypass. Proper ducting directs air smoothly to the radiator, and gives it no choice but to pass through the radiator.

 

I am looking at possibly participating in the SV Miata Challenge at ACS in mid November, about a month from now. I do not currently have the funds to upgrade to a TSE radiator as discussed previously. I would like to upgrade/replace my radiator cap with a Koyo 1.3 bar and add the lip/riser in from of my hood opening to help with heat evacuation.

I expect the weather at ACS next month to be considerably cooler than BRP in Sept when I was overheating. Thinking 70-80 degrees ambient. That would be 20-30 degrees cooler than BRP. What do you guys think my chances of overheating at ACS would be? I have never been to the track. Do I have a shot of not overheating with those long full throttle straights? Thanks.