Cooling Issues on Track, What is the solution? - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Engine Performance This section is for discussion on all engine building related questions.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-26-2012, 01:22 PM   #21
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
shuiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 13,780
Total Cats: 1,106
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by comradefks View Post
As far as bleeding, I fill the radiator with the nose of the car jacked up then run it until it's up to temp at idle. Keep filling radiator as needed. Then hold that car at between 2k and 3k in revs as it continues to purge out air. Basically stop when I stop seeing bubbles come out of the fill. Let the car cool down and top off the radiator/overflow as needed at the point.
That sound pretty good. The only thing I might add to the end is letting the car idle until the fan comes on and turns off 3 times to make sure all the air is out.
shuiend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2012, 01:33 PM   #22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South Bay, CA
Posts: 354
Total Cats: -2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
That sound pretty good. The only thing I might add to the end is letting the car idle until the fan comes on and turns off 3 times to make sure all the air is out.
Understood. Only issue is that I'm running a MS now so the fan coming on and off is solely to do with coolant temp from the sensor at the back of the head and doesn't necessarily coincide with the thermostat opening, which is my understanding of what makes the coolant in the radiator dip and push water/air through to the fill at the radiator.

I think we got all or almost all the air out of the system. If there was some air in there, it was negligible.
comradefks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2012, 01:50 PM   #23
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,114
Total Cats: 351
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by comradefks View Post
Oil temps at the drain plug sensor got up to about 250F over the weekend. Don't know what the delta between that location and an oil cooler sandwich plate or the other locations for a reading are.
You drive like a woman if your oil temps are 250*f and you're not running an oil cooler.
Quote:
Originally Posted by comradefks View Post
As far as bleeding, I fill the radiator with the nose of the car jacked up then run it until it's up to temp at idle. Keep filling radiator as needed. Then hold that car at between 2k and 3k in revs as it continues to purge out air. Basically stop when I stop seeing bubbles come out of the fill. Let the car cool down and top off the radiator/overflow as needed at the point.
Buy
this this
, start the car, pour in water, relax, wait for the t-stat to cycle, then run records at every track. This funnel is magical.
hustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2012, 01:52 PM   #24
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NH
Posts: 9,093
Total Cats: 90
Default

Looking for something?
We're sorry. The Web address you entered is not a functioning page on our site

Go to Amazon.com's Home Page
Leafy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2012, 01:59 PM   #25
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,114
Total Cats: 351
Default

Lisle magic funnel:
Attached Thumbnails
Cooling Issues on Track, What is the solution?-lis24610.jpg  
hustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2012, 02:15 PM   #26
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
shuiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 13,780
Total Cats: 1,106
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by comradefks View Post
Understood. Only issue is that I'm running a MS now so the fan coming on and off is solely to do with coolant temp from the sensor at the back of the head and doesn't necessarily coincide with the thermostat opening, which is my understanding of what makes the coolant in the radiator dip and push water/air through to the fill at the radiator.

I think we got all or almost all the air out of the system. If there was some air in there, it was negligible.
I generally have my fans set to come on at 210 degree Fahrenheit and then off at 200. So I know what they are coming on and off with the thermostat being open. It is probably a bit overkill to burp this way, but it has always worked for me.
shuiend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2012, 02:53 PM   #27
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South Bay, CA
Posts: 354
Total Cats: -2
Default

[QUOTE=hustler;931956]You drive like a woman if your oil temps are 250*f and you're not running an oil cooler.

I was...because I was overheating. Do about 1 hot lap for every 3-4 cool down laps in a session. Cool down laps were about 20 seconds slower than a fast lap.
comradefks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2012, 04:17 PM   #28
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,114
Total Cats: 351
Default

[quote=comradefks;932009]
Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
You drive like a woman if your oil temps are 250*f and you're not running an oil cooler.

I was...because I was overheating. Do about 1 hot lap for every 3-4 cool down laps in a session. Cool down laps were about 20 seconds slower than a fast lap.
I've never been there, but I bet it felches abraded poz dump to deal with that crap.
hustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2012, 04:38 PM   #29
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South Bay, CA
Posts: 354
Total Cats: -2
Default

It really did suck. Almost packed it up early a couple times on Saturday night and Sunday morning but decided why not go out there.

Ended up playing the drive it 4th gear everywhere and pedal it on the straights while catching my friend in his slow *** 240sx single cam around the track. Proved entertaining
comradefks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2012, 02:33 PM   #30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South Bay, CA
Posts: 354
Total Cats: -2
Default

So I guess my consensus is to upgrade the radiator, make sure my radiator cap is replaced and has a pressure rating that is adequate and bleed the system thoroughly. Also want to revisit my radiator ducting and see if I can improve on it.

Oh, and I drew this up real quick. I will make it up at work and rivet around the vent opening in the hood to promote heat extraction.
Attached Thumbnails
Cooling Issues on Track, What is the solution?-hood-vent.png  
comradefks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2012, 03:01 PM   #31
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (3)
 
emilio700's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 5,323
Total Cats: 1,344
Default

We have one of the Lisle magical funnels here but never use it. John prefers to lift the nose of the car up. One trick I've found for burping is to put the back cap on just before the tstat opens. Pressure builds in system and helps push bubble out back of engine.
emilio700 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2012, 02:38 AM   #32
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 208
Total Cats: 0
Default

wouldnt hurt to add some shrouding and "box-in" the radiator.
v01canic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2012, 01:16 PM   #33
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South Bay, CA
Posts: 354
Total Cats: -2
Default

I have done by best to duct the inlet to the radiator at this point but I do think there is some room for improvement. Have been reading a few different ways to attack the problem and going to try my hand at some of the solutions when I address the radiator issue.
comradefks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2012, 03:59 PM   #34
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: East Texas
Posts: 230
Total Cats: 11
Default

Pics of your setup? im trying to work out the best way to attach the ducting at the bumper and such? I had hoped to mess with my ducting this weekend, but we had crap weather.
shanem is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2012, 05:18 PM   #35
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South Bay, CA
Posts: 354
Total Cats: -2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shanem View Post
Pics of your setup? im trying to work out the best way to attach the ducting at the bumper and such? I had hoped to mess with my ducting this weekend, but we had crap weather.
I'll try to take some pictures of the ducting when I get a chance, don't have any currently. Basically had to get it done quickly so it's a combination of the factory undertray, cut of plastic sections of For Sale signs riveted together/ to the bumper skin and a ton of Aluminum tape connecting pieces together and sealing all the small openings. Also sealed off the top openings under the hood.
comradefks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2012, 05:32 PM   #36
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,114
Total Cats: 351
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shanem View Post
Pics of your setup? im trying to work out the best way to attach the ducting at the bumper and such? I had hoped to mess with my ducting this weekend, but we had crap weather.









Most of this is ghetto because I rushed to get the car on track in just a few days.
Attached Thumbnails
Cooling Issues on Track, What is the solution?-vdpdm.jpg   Cooling Issues on Track, What is the solution?-wzs1l.jpg   Cooling Issues on Track, What is the solution?-1xmi6.jpg   Cooling Issues on Track, What is the solution?-thnpn.jpg   Cooling Issues on Track, What is the solution?-kzmbi.jpg  

Cooling Issues on Track, What is the solution?-hkxe7.jpg   Cooling Issues on Track, What is the solution?-5s3fw.jpg   Cooling Issues on Track, What is the solution?-2mjeb.jpg   Cooling Issues on Track, What is the solution?-5mi8i.jpg  
hustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2012, 06:47 PM   #37
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,107
Total Cats: 518
Default

Nice ducting techsalvager*.

*I vote we replace "peasant" with techsalvager. Especially when used to describe copious amounts of zip ties.
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2012, 05:50 AM   #38
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: East Texas
Posts: 230
Total Cats: 11
Default

thanks hustler! That plastic looks way thicker than the stuff you recommended the other day, where did you get it? Did you have to pull the bumper? i have mesh in there to keep the IC safe and i also have to deal with that pita bumper opening.
shanem is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2012, 08:54 AM   #39
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver
Posts: 909
Total Cats: 14
Default

You need to get a factory under tray on that thing, that single piece of plastic with no sides is doing little to protect the low pressure side of the radiator. IMHO I would rethink your shrouding as well, the plastic wall at the bottom of the radiator is doing nothing to direct air into the radiator. It is simply blocking off an area for the air to bypass. Proper ducting directs air smoothly to the radiator, and gives it no choice but to pass through the radiator.
hingstonwm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2012, 06:09 PM   #40
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South Bay, CA
Posts: 354
Total Cats: -2
Default

I am looking at possibly participating in the SV Miata Challenge at ACS in mid November, about a month from now. I do not currently have the funds to upgrade to a TSE radiator as discussed previously. I would like to upgrade/replace my radiator cap with a Koyo 1.3 bar and add the lip/riser in from of my hood opening to help with heat evacuation.

I expect the weather at ACS next month to be considerably cooler than BRP in Sept when I was overheating. Thinking 70-80 degrees ambient. That would be 20-30 degrees cooler than BRP. What do you guys think my chances of overheating at ACS would be? I have never been to the track. Do I have a shot of not overheating with those long full throttle straights? Thanks.
comradefks is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Project Gemini - Turbo Civic on the Cheap Full_Tilt_Boogie Build Threads 59 Yesterday 09:00 PM
My solution for Oiltemp and Oilpressure input into Megasuirt (MS3) Zaphod MEGAsquirt 41 01-24-2016 01:25 PM
Expected intake temps on the track? tazswing Race Prep 20 10-03-2015 12:04 PM
Leaky Wilwoods mx592 Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 1 10-01-2015 01:45 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:05 AM.