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easier to pull engine or eng + trans?

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Old Aug 28, 2017 | 01:01 PM
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Default easier to pull engine or eng + trans?

Installing a motor this week. Quick question; Is it easier to pull and replace the motor with the trans, or just swap in the motor? Because of the difficulty in getting to the downpipe bolts, I will need to pre-install with the motor. Thx!
Old Aug 28, 2017 | 01:09 PM
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Engine+trans together, always.
Old Aug 28, 2017 | 01:09 PM
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Its easier to pull the motor with the trans. Pulling the bell housing bolts is a PITA when the engine is in the car. Don't do that to yourself.
Old Aug 28, 2017 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
Engine+trans together, always.
This. Its helpful to have a good load leveler on the hoist and a friend to help guide.
Old Aug 28, 2017 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
Engine+trans together, always.
​​​​​​​Always and forever this.
Old Aug 28, 2017 | 01:42 PM
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thx for saving me some skinned knuckles!
Old Aug 28, 2017 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by gtred
thx for saving me some skinned knuckles!
Every bit helps when it comes to clearance at the back of the motor. Wait to install the cas and coils , if your doing a coolant reroute you might want to put that on. It is a hassle if your using the m tune reroute to do it once the motor is in.
Old Aug 28, 2017 | 03:58 PM
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Exocet. Pull trans cover panel, can access all the bellhousing bolts from inside the car. Or even better, get concealer404 to come over and do it for you.
Old Aug 28, 2017 | 04:00 PM
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Concealer404 is pretty dumb and likes testing his strength as he deadlifts a dressed BP to the correct angle to horse it onto the input shaft, too.
Old Aug 28, 2017 | 09:07 PM
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Braggart
Old Aug 28, 2017 | 09:09 PM
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Not off the ground, mind you. We both have engine hoists. But after awhile it gets frustrating when a motor doesn't want to line up (partially because fighting a reroute) and you just make it happen.

I'm small. But stubborn and willing to black out.
Old Aug 29, 2017 | 04:06 PM
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If you have to remove the engine, remove both together. Being able to tilt the engine forward on a stand and carefully drop the transmission on to the top of the clutch is way easier than fooling around under the car trying to make **** align.

Be careful to properly unplug speedo, reverse, neutral before you lift everything out. Or you're gonna have a bad time. Mostly because you won't realize it until later when the car is "done" but the wires are broken.
And yeah, obviously you need a leveler for your engine hoist or this will suck.
Old Aug 29, 2017 | 04:12 PM
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Cut out your core support and it gets even easier.
Old Aug 29, 2017 | 05:45 PM
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Having done it both ways, I'd say it's roughly the same amount of work to remove the engine both with and without the tranny attached. Getting to the bellhousing bolts isn't all that hard if you've got a decent set of long extensions and U-joints, and you don't need to pull as much exhaust/PPF/driveshaft stuff if you leave the tranny in the car.

On the other hand, getting it back *in* is a serious PITA if the tranny is still in the car, so you'll wind up pulling the transmission anyway and would have been better off just doing it the way everyone recommends.

--Ian
Old Aug 29, 2017 | 10:21 PM
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both together FTW.

just did this project two weeks ago. pulled both together alone, by myself. no biggie. 3-4 hours to unbolt everything needed and unplug everything then no more than 30mins to actually pull the motor/tranny.

make sure you have a load leveler, i cannot even imagine how to get it out without a leveler, i have to tilt it at all kinds of angles to clear everything.





Old Aug 29, 2017 | 10:40 PM
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Used to be a huge proponent of pulling them together, however with lifts at work, I usually pull the trans first, making pulling the engine that much easier (ie; straight up, not constantly fiddling with load leveler). With an impact, a long extension, and this:

https://store.snapon.com/Shallow-Swi...t-P645581.aspx

bell housing bolts are out in about 30 seconds. A quick swap to the straight socket, because swivel sockets are sketch with impact, and the PPF comes off a few minutes later.

I laugh at all you peasants working in your driveway or garage. I don't think Craig was asking for lift advice though.
Old Aug 29, 2017 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mitymazda
...if your doing a coolant reroute you might want to put that on. It is quite pleasant to install the SuperMiata Qmax reroute when the engine is out of the car.
FTFY. By all means, install the reroute when the motor is out. But please, install the right one

Originally Posted by aidandj
Cut out your core support and it gets even easier.
<3
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Old Aug 29, 2017 | 10:49 PM
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If you're working in a shop, why do you pull the engine out the top at all? Just unbolt the subframe and lift the body off the rollerskate

Also, what's up with Goldfinger's Miata engine?

--Ian
Old Aug 29, 2017 | 10:56 PM
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a question for the engine pulling gurus:

when dropping the engine back in, whats the best way to address engine mounts.

The way i did it, is drop the engine in, then once its positioned semi close, i put in the mounts first into the subframe with the 1 bolt and loosely put the nut, then as i fiddle with the lift/leveler i try to line up the 3 bolts for the mount to engine.
This took me 3 freaking hours to do alone. 6 bolts but hours and hours of frustration.

is there an easier way?
Old Aug 29, 2017 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ThePass
FTFY. By all means, install the reroute when the motor is out. But please, install the right one



<3
God I wish someone had told me that back in December!..jerks
I think I'll hit up cr and post up a deal on an mtune for a sweet deal!



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