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Old 03-26-2012, 10:31 AM   #41
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What are the tricks for getting the engine back in with the transmission attached? I had the hardest time lining up the motor mount bolts with the tiny holes in the subframe. I kept smashing the turbo into the side of the engine bay, and the VVT oil supply line into the firewall, and the motor mounts into the subframe. Took like an hour and a half of just wrestling that last inch or two to get the driver's side bolt into the hole. I ended up taking off the passenger side mount, seating the driver's side and putting the nut on loosely, then re-attaching the passenger mount and seating that in. It was brutal.
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:36 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by palmtree View Post
Great tip! Would have saved me some time on my latest engine pull!

Make sure you have the right fuel line removal tool. I don't know if the NB1s have the ford fuel line connector thingys buy I know NB2s do.
How do I get that thing off without the tool since I'm using universal lines next time?
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:58 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by elesjuan View Post
Get a transmission butt plug and pull them together, much easier.




First time I pulled just the engine and left trans in, took me an extra hour to get the trans lined back up when installing motor. Won't make that mistake again.
Where did you get that? Link?
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Old 03-26-2012, 11:35 AM   #44
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Did you buy new engine mounts by chance? And as dumb as this sounds, but are you sure you have the engine mounts properly oriented?
Nearly-new engine mounts (< 1k on them)

And yes, the engine mounts are properly oriented.

The mounts are as high on the passenger's side slot as it can physically go, which is why it's crooked. I can't seem to get the damn mount to go down.

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Originally Posted by skidude View Post
What are the tricks for getting the engine back in with the transmission attached? I had the hardest time lining up the motor mount bolts with the tiny holes in the subframe. I kept smashing the turbo into the side of the engine bay, and the VVT oil supply line into the firewall, and the motor mounts into the subframe. Took like an hour and a half of just wrestling that last inch or two to get the driver's side bolt into the hole. I ended up taking off the passenger side mount, seating the driver's side and putting the nut on loosely, then re-attaching the passenger mount and seating that in. It was brutal.
^This, basically.
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Old 03-26-2012, 11:41 AM   #45
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You could always just drop the whole subframe out from under the car will everything attached. Thats what i did, just make sure to line your steering wheel up before you lower the car back onto the subframe. Altho if you dont have a lift at your disposal i suppose this is the hardest way.
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:24 PM   #46
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I've always removed the engine with both mounts attached and installed it with one or two mounts removed. Out of my 5 engine installs, I've tried it with both installed twice, and both times ended up removing one or both. Is it possible? Obviously, since it came out with both. But it's not worth my time.
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:32 PM   #47
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I've always removed the engine with both mounts attached and installed it with one or two mounts removed. Out of my 5 engine installs, I've tried it with both installed twice, and both times ended up removing one or both. Is it possible? Obviously, since it came out with both. But it's not worth my time.
Curly, on installation, have you ever ran into problems with the engine being crooked, i.e. passenger side higher than driver? How did you fix it?
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:34 PM   #48
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Where did you get that? Link?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/POW-POW301230

http://www.harborfreight.com/transmi...ool-98060.html

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Old 03-26-2012, 12:45 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
How do I get that thing off without the tool since I'm using universal lines next time?
Borrow mine. Lol

I tried getting it off for like an hour the first time without the proper tool, and it wasn't happening. If you aren't reusing it, you could just take a cutoff wheel to it or something.
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:46 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by blaen99 View Post
Curly, on installation, have you ever ran into problems with the engine being crooked, i.e. passenger side higher than driver? How did you fix it?
There's a hole above the slot. You're supposed to be in the lower one, which I believe is the slot.
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:50 PM   #51
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I would put a bolt loosely on the drivers side mount so it doesn't pop out, use the engine hoist to lift it up slightly, and stick a crow bar to try and move the engine a little. That's what I had to do with mine.
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:51 PM   #52
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Oh yeah there are two holes on the driver's side, and a slot on the passenger's side. Make sure you're in the right hole on the drivers side. IIRC.
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:02 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by skidude View Post
What are the tricks for getting the engine back in with the transmission attached? I had the hardest time lining up the motor mount bolts with the tiny holes in the subframe. I kept smashing the turbo into the side of the engine bay, and the VVT oil supply line into the firewall, and the motor mounts into the subframe. Took like an hour and a half of just wrestling that last inch or two to get the driver's side bolt into the hole. I ended up taking off the passenger side mount, seating the driver's side and putting the nut on loosely, then re-attaching the passenger mount and seating that in. It was brutal.
driver side is a hole, passenger side is a slot. Hole goes in first, then the slot. There is some muscling involved plus a leveler REALLY helps.

Just don't forget the metal "bucket" things that go between engine mounts and subrframe. Ask me how I know
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:10 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by soviet View Post
Just don't forget the metal "bucket" things that go between engine mounts and subrframe. Ask me how I know
Why even put them in if you maintain the car?
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:12 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
There's a hole above the slot. You're supposed to be in the lower one, which I believe is the slot.
Huh, I never thought of that. There's a chance it could be in the hole, thanks Curly.
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:17 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
driver side is a hole, passenger side is a slot. Hole goes in first, then the slot. There is some muscling involved plus a leveler REALLY helps.

Just don't forget the metal "bucket" things that go between engine mounts and subrframe. Ask me how I know
I figured the first part out alright, but I didn't have a leveler. I kept trying to hoist from different parts of the chain to achieve the same effect. Results were not the same.

What happens if you forget them? I put them in, but I have no idea why they exist.
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:31 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by palmtree View Post
Oh yeah there are two holes on the driver's side, and a slot on the passenger's side. Make sure you're in the right hole on the drivers side. IIRC.
Mine has 3 - isn't the center one correct?

Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
There's a hole above the slot. You're supposed to be in the lower one, which I believe is the slot.
It's in the slot after all. However, there's that...leg that comes out of the motor mount that it seems to be hanging on which appears to be preventing it from moving lower in the slot. Is that a viable possibility on my predicament?

Quote:
Originally Posted by palmtree View Post
I would put a bolt loosely on the drivers side mount so it doesn't pop out, use the engine hoist to lift it up slightly, and stick a crow bar to try and move the engine a little. That's what I had to do with mine.
I'd rather not go with the crow bar untill I've exhausted all other options - it's just too easy to tear something up without meaning to when you force things into place.
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:43 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by blaen99 View Post
Mine has 3 - isn't the center one correct?
Ah, that's right. At work ATM, working from memory. Maybe those holes are there to help get it oriented correctly? I could be totally wrong about that... lol. If you were to move it up one hole on the drivers side, would that straighten it out?

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Originally Posted by blaen99 View Post
I'd rather not go with the crow bar untill I've exhausted all other options - it's just too easy to tear something up without meaning to when you force things into place.
Even the mazdaspeed motor mounts are pretty flexible. With the metal cup attached, I was able to caress the mount enough with the crow bar in between the subframe and the mount to get it in the hole without tearing things up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by blaen99 View Post
It's in the slot after all. However, there's that...leg that comes out of the motor mount that it seems to be hanging on which appears to be preventing it from moving lower in the slot. Is that a viable possibility on my predicament?
Pictures?
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:50 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by palmtree View Post
Pictures?
Okay.

P.S. No making fun of my pictures, they were taken blind.
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Old 03-26-2012, 03:13 PM   #60
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Is it crooked with the drivers side higher than the passengers side or other way around?
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