engine cooling
I am thinking about putting a turbo on my '95 miata...I am concerned about cooling.
I am considering a FM kit...Is there a kit that is best for cooling? I should have mentioned that I only use the car on the track Also many people at the track told me that if I go with the turbo, I will have nothing but problems? has this been the general concensus? Does the 949 racing coolant re-route help the issue? |
You don't have to write a new post...you can just edit the original post.
Good luck with the onslaught. |
WOW. 5 posts by YOU. I am gonna tell you this...
My car has a T25 non journal bearing turbo and dyno'd at a mere 210whp at 12psi. I never have any kind of issue with it running hot. The factory temp gauge has always shown the same reading as it has when the car was stock. So I answered your question by transferring my experience, now as soon as hustler reads this, get ready to get bent over and railed. You should prepare to read a response like, "shoot yourself in the head with a staple gun and then use the search feature, and then when you're done searching, eat my shit and my dog's shits." |
Won't help increased oil temps too much but you can always just run no thermostat in the summer/when you track it...
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Originally Posted by stlxsr
(Post 416753)
Won't help increased oil temps too much but you can always just run no thermostat in the summer/when you track it...
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Need more details.
6-12 psi is probably fine in Alaska. 6 PSI in TX or the Southwest in the summer with AC doing 20 minute track sessions is a different monster. Post an introduction thread in the Meat N' Greet and put your location in your profile. Chris |
Originally Posted by fluke
(Post 416950)
:facepalm:Holy shit, don't ever do that w/ a Miata. Great way to overheat the back of the motor and blow a head gasket.
I've run a gutted thermostat in several track only cars including spec and turbo miatas and it seems to work well. |
Originally Posted by BenR
(Post 416980)
I've run a gutted thermostat in several track only cars including spec and turbo miatas and it seems to work well.
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Your theory may be solid, in practice for me it has always given a signifigant overall drop in water temps. I've yet to lose a head gasket or had a problem with the number 4 cylinder. Your results may vary.
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Originally Posted by BenR
(Post 417008)
Your theory may be solid, in practice for me it has always given a signifigant overall drop in water temps. I've yet to lose a head gasket or had a problem with the number 4 cylinder. Your results may vary.
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Gutted thermostat :ne: missing thermostat.
A gutted thermostat maintains some of the flow restriction necessary for proper cooling. |
I'm not saying to remove it entirely, just cut the ears of the sprung section out and put it back it so that it's effectively always open.
Removing it completely may not be a good idea because the system likely requires some amount of restriction. |
Thanks for all the replies. I run my car on track days...not full out racing. I live in south Florida, so the ambient temps can get well into the 90's.
I saw a post from someone in TX with sim. weather. I really enjoy the car and the handling....I just would like some more power because It sucks to catch up in the corners to just have the car in front of you pull away in the next straight. I heard the turbos work awesome in the street but not during 1/2 hour sessions at the track. Is there a magic number for boost that helps control eng. temp. I think I would be happy with about 160 whp. My car only weights 1,973 lbs |
You can make that much naturally aspirated and still be fairly streetable. PM a guy named EMILIO here and ask him about his naturally aspirated setup on the OGK car.
Any 1.8 block and hi-comp pistons. '99-'00 head with a little work, oversized valves, and hi-rpm valvetrain. Aftermarket cams and adj cam-gears. Header+exhaust+CAI. Any full funtion piggy or standalone. Obviously no AC/PS/EGR, plus hi-octane and a shit-ton of timing... that oughta do it. |
Originally Posted by stlxsr
(Post 416753)
Won't help increased oil temps too much but you can always just run no thermostat in the summer/when you track it...
You need an oil cooler too. |
Originally Posted by stlxsr
(Post 416753)
Won't help increased oil temps too much but you can always just run no thermostat in the summer/when you track it...
I dont know what is more of an epic fail, this^, or the OP... |
Originally Posted by r1rod
(Post 417168)
I heard the turbos work awesome in the street but not during 1/2 hour sessions at the track. Please do some reading. |
Originally Posted by dustinb
(Post 417360)
I
Please do some reading. |
52mm Radiator = most of your S.FL cooling issues solved.
Mishimoto Performance Radiator - 89-97 Mazda Miata, Manual - Turbochargers.com http://www.turbochargers.com/store/i...RAD-MIA-90.jpg My car was overheating in Tampa in the summer at the autocrosses. It would also overheat when parked in a sweltering parking lot with the A/C on for more than 20 minutes. I know that doubling the radiator capacity has solved my problem, and I like my Mishimoto's looks as well. Good luck. |
^+1 on Mishimoto, a bunch of my drifter friends run them with no problems (and they beat their cars to hell).
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