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Old 06-07-2009, 07:32 PM   #1
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Default engine cooling

I am thinking about putting a turbo on my '95 miata...I am concerned about cooling.

I am considering a FM kit...Is there a kit that is best for cooling?

I should have mentioned that I only use the car on the track

Also many people at the track told me that if I go with the turbo, I will have nothing but problems? has this been the general concensus?

Does the 949 racing coolant re-route help the issue?

Last edited by Joe Perez; 06-07-2009 at 08:05 PM. Reason: Merged five posts into one.
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Old 06-07-2009, 07:43 PM   #2
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You don't have to write a new post...you can just edit the original post.

Good luck with the onslaught.
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Old 06-07-2009, 07:47 PM   #3
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WOW. 5 posts by YOU. I am gonna tell you this...
My car has a T25 non journal bearing turbo and dyno'd at a mere 210whp at 12psi. I never have any kind of issue with it running hot. The factory temp gauge has always shown the same reading as it has when the car was stock.
So I answered your question by transferring my experience, now as soon as hustler reads this, get ready to get bent over and railed. You should prepare to read a response like, "shoot yourself in the head with a staple gun and then use the search feature, and then when you're done searching, eat my **** and my dog's *****."
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Old 06-07-2009, 11:05 PM   #4
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Won't help increased oil temps too much but you can always just run no thermostat in the summer/when you track it...
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Old 06-08-2009, 12:17 PM   #5
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Won't help increased oil temps too much but you can always just run no thermostat in the summer/when you track it...
Holy ****, don't ever do that w/ a Miata. Great way to overheat the back of the motor and blow a head gasket.
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Old 06-08-2009, 01:13 PM   #6
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Need more details.

6-12 psi is probably fine in Alaska.

6 PSI in TX or the Southwest in the summer with AC doing 20 minute track sessions is a different monster.

Post an introduction thread in the Meat N' Greet and put your location in your profile.

Chris
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Old 06-08-2009, 01:42 PM   #7
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Holy ****, don't ever do that w/ a Miata. Great way to overheat the back of the motor and blow a head gasket.




I've run a gutted thermostat in several track only cars including spec and turbo miatas and it seems to work well.
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Old 06-08-2009, 02:43 PM   #8
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I've run a gutted thermostat in several track only cars including spec and turbo miatas and it seems to work well.
Well, I can tell you that this will cause the exact opposite effect as the coolant re-route as you are dropping the flow resistance in the front of the motor and therefore reducing flow to the rear.
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Old 06-08-2009, 02:50 PM   #9
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Your theory may be solid, in practice for me it has always given a signifigant overall drop in water temps. I've yet to lose a head gasket or had a problem with the number 4 cylinder. Your results may vary.
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Old 06-08-2009, 04:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Your theory may be solid, in practice for me it has always given a signifigant overall drop in water temps. I've yet to lose a head gasket or had a problem with the number 4 cylinder. Your results may vary.
All I can say is that in my early Miata days, I was having problems w/ my thermostat on a long *** drive. I pulled my thermostat, and blew my head gasket a month later. Maybe the head gasket was on its way out though, always assumed that the missing 'stat did it.
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Old 06-08-2009, 04:19 PM   #11
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Gutted thermostat missing thermostat.

A gutted thermostat maintains some of the flow restriction necessary for proper cooling.
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Old 06-08-2009, 04:19 PM   #12
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I'm not saying to remove it entirely, just cut the ears of the sprung section out and put it back it so that it's effectively always open.




Removing it completely may not be a good idea because the system likely requires some amount of restriction.
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:36 PM   #13
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Thanks for all the replies. I run my car on track days...not full out racing. I live in south Florida, so the ambient temps can get well into the 90's.

I saw a post from someone in TX with sim. weather. I really enjoy the car and the handling....I just would like some more power because It sucks to catch up in the corners to just have the car in front of you pull away in the next straight.

I heard the turbos work awesome in the street but not during 1/2 hour sessions at the track.

Is there a magic number for boost that helps control eng. temp. I think I would be happy with about 160 whp. My car only weights 1,973 lbs
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:51 PM   #14
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You can make that much naturally aspirated and still be fairly streetable. PM a guy named EMILIO here and ask him about his naturally aspirated setup on the OGK car.

Any 1.8 block and hi-comp pistons.
'99-'00 head with a little work, oversized valves, and hi-rpm valvetrain.
Aftermarket cams and adj cam-gears.
Header+exhaust+CAI.
Any full funtion piggy or standalone.
Obviously no AC/PS/EGR, plus hi-octane and a ****-ton of timing... that oughta do it.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:14 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlxsr View Post
Won't help increased oil temps too much but you can always just run no thermostat in the summer/when you track it...
you're a tard.


You need an oil cooler too.
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:10 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlxsr View Post
Won't help increased oil temps too much but you can always just run no thermostat in the summer/when you track it...

I dont know what is more of an epic fail, this^, or the OP...
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:27 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r1rod View Post

I heard the turbos work awesome in the street but not during 1/2 hour sessions at the track.
I'm sorry, but do you even know what a turbo is or how it works? Power is power. A turbo isn't going to function any different in 1/2 hour on the track, or 1/2 hour on the street - it will be the same. It makes power, regardless of where you drive your car. Whether you can handle that power on a track comes down to your driving competence and how the rest of your car is set up.

Please do some reading.
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:36 AM   #18
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I
Please do some reading.
and kill yourself because you're a virgin, and always will be. Trucker glory holes don't count.
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Old 06-09-2009, 12:49 PM   #19
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52mm Radiator = most of your S.FL cooling issues solved.
Mishimoto Performance Radiator - 89-97 Mazda Miata, Manual - Turbochargers.com



My car was overheating in Tampa in the summer at the autocrosses. It would also overheat when parked in a sweltering parking lot with the A/C on for more than 20 minutes. I know that doubling the radiator capacity has solved my problem, and I like my Mishimoto's looks as well. Good luck.
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Old 06-09-2009, 02:13 PM   #20
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^+1 on Mishimoto, a bunch of my drifter friends run them with no problems (and they beat their cars to hell).
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