Originally Posted by triple88a
(Post 477614)
Just curious, why doesnt any one use traction bars to cure the wheel hop instead of trash everything else?
Add some traction bars, add some stiffer springs and you have your self a smooth as butter burnout/takeoff. |
I'm no expert on traction bars, but aren't they for leaf spring suspensions with solid rear axles? The traction bar is a measure to deal with the leaf springs inability of properly keep the axle from twisting.
A Miata's double A arm independent suspension doesn't have this problem, and unless there is some other device also known as a traction bar that works on a Miata, I'm thinking that installing a traction bar on a Miata would make as much sense as installing glow plugs. |
Originally Posted by matttheniceguy
(Post 477624)
I'm no expert on traction bars, but aren't they for leaf spring suspensions with solid rear axles? The traction bar is a measure to deal with the leaf springs inability of properly keep the axle from twisting.
A Miata's double A arm independent suspension doesn't have this problem, and unless there is some other device also known as a traction bar that works on a Miata, I'm thinking that installing a traction bar on a Miata would make as much sense as installing glow plugs. |
perhaps its not called traction bars? Its basically bars with a Johhny joint on each end that mounts to the end of the control arm and mounts around the rear of the door. This holds the axle steady in its place instead of it having some play forward and backwards which is the main problem. It grips, pulls forward slips grips again pulls forward so forth. There was a good writeup some one did on a miata 3 years ago on the miata forum. I have yet to see a vehicle with forward arms and hard suspension suffer wheel hop.
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Originally Posted by triple88a
(Post 477638)
perhaps its not called traction bars? Its basically bars with a Johhny joint on each end that mounts to the end of the control arm and mounts around the rear of the door. This holds the axle steady in its place instead of it having some play forward and backwards which is the main problem. It grips, pulls forward slips grips again pulls forward so forth. There was a good writeup some one did on a miata 3 years ago on the miata forum. I have yet to see a vehicle with forward arms and hard suspension suffer wheel hop.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 476580)
The shift feel cannot be beat, but when your PPF bolts come loose, your motor mount nuts rattle off, your alternator tension bracket falls off, and your rear view mirror is totally useless at 2200rpm, you'll be reconsidering them. I'm switching my car from MMR to Comp mounts, and resigning myself to the fact that I'll break a set every 6-8 months.
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Originally Posted by crashnscar
(Post 477645)
The axle doesn't twist like a solid axle with leaf springs does. :noob:
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:facepalm: What makes a car wheel hop is when the differential rocks back and forth.
When the car is launched, the differential pivots up. The ppf bends just slightly and then springs the differential down again. This up and down cycle causes the wheel hop. In straight axle cars, the control arms are at the ends, close to the wheel, because the axle tubes and differential are all one unit. In an irs car, the only way to keep the differntial from twisting upwards, is to attach some kind of bar from the differential to the chassis and or strengthen the ppf. Strengthening the control arms does nothing, because they are independent from the differential. |
Originally Posted by triple88a
(Post 477614)
Just curious, why doesnt any one use traction bars to cure the wheel hop instead of trash everything else?
Add some traction bars, add some stiffer springs and you have your self a smooth as butter burnout/takeoff. |
From the dead...
I am about to do change mounts from my MMR's to MC ones. I want to try solid mount on passenger side and MC on the driver side. Braindick said this would be a good setup. Any one ever try mixing the two? My MMR's broke me, but I have a feeling MC only mounts would not be tight enough for my liking. |
Well I did MC on drivers side and MMR on the passenger side.
It is alot better, so much more pleasnt to ride in. Funny thing is now my idle is all sorts of fucked up, and I can barely make 3 psi. Boost leak? I'm confused EDIT: BOV fail. |
i bought a set of mmr mounts last month and haven't installed them. I'm planning on running one MMR and one Mazspeed mount.
your car is a daily, Bond, how is it? |
Originally Posted by johnwag
(Post 510052)
i bought a set of mmr mounts last month and haven't installed them. I'm planning on running one MMR and one Mazspeed mount.
your car is a daily, Bond, how is it? |
Can anyone with MMR mounts measure the thickness of the mount. I plan to make some mounts with some threaded rod and some hockey pucks (yes I'm canadian). Even mearuing a stock mount would be handy if someone has one out of a car. This is not a street car, so I'm alright with all the potential downsides.
Mike |
Originally Posted by mikewolf
(Post 531138)
Can anyone with MMR mounts measure the thickness of the mount. I plan to make some mounts with some threaded rod and some hockey pucks (yes I'm canadian). Even mearuing a stock mount would be handy if someone has one out of a car. This is not a street car, so I'm alright with all the potential downsides.
Mike Also wondering if it would be between the MC and MMR mounts to take the MC mount and perform the windoweld trick to create a polyurethane insert of sorts. I don't know how effective it would be, just a thought. |
What mounts are the ones that everyone here likes? Is this them MazdaSpeed Mounts on Moss
Sorry to threadjack. |
It really depends on what you want. The mounts you are looking at are stiffer than stock, but won't rattle you to death.
The MMR mounts are solid. They will create a lot of vibrations and the gauge needles will be shaky. Some people mix em up: MMR on Passenger side and the Mazdaspeed on the driver side. This is so it won't be as harsh and I've heard rumors of the heat from a turbo melting MMR mounts. |
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