fabbed some solid motor mounts.
 

ok so heres the story. i am switching out a lower mileage engine into my miata. could not get my hands on a set of oem ones soon. the mounts on the car were shot to hell. and my other set were cracking.

so i read some on doing this so i understand somewhat of what ups and downs are of these. but if i do not like them i will order a set of poly ones.

i understand they will rattle and what not. looking for more if anybody has ran them and what performance i can expect will not be driving until tom. just got done with these and installed them with my engine.

so let me know what you guys think of how i did it. how they look and what i can expect BESIDES RATTLING i get that i will get a lot of that. :) ill deal

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let me know what you guys think.

I would order some OEM mazdacomp ones and swap them out. The rattling will literally make bolts and shit come loose on your car.

i have herd this. i know how much rattling i am going to get. i am looking to see any advantages by these. i dont want to hear that every post.

I love the MMR mounts in my NA. It rattles horribly, but the nasty wheelhop is gone and the car hooks way better than you would expect it too. They may not be solid, but they're pretty close.

Advantage: Your car will run

Disadvantage: Everything else

well i can order some of those mmrs if i need to but i figured this is a cheap alternative. and i dont think i did it wrong at all so worst case is a order a new set. i think it will be fun

I can vouch for the mazdacomp mounts being quality, more vibration sure but not enough to piss me off. Much better feel too.

MMR's are still too stiff. Does bad things to the car. I think something in-between mazdacomp and MMR would be perfect.

The shift feel cannot be beat, but when your PPF bolts come loose, your motor mount nuts rattle off, your alternator tension bracket falls off, and your rear view mirror is totally useless at 2200rpm, you'll be reconsidering them. I'm switching my car from MMR to Comp mounts, and resigning myself to the fact that I'll break a set every 6-8 months.

yeeeeah!
real men run solid steel mounts, shits badass

on another note, id like to see a video of some of the crazy resonances that build up in that car, the mazda BP seems to be a motor that likes to shake like fucking crazy, haha

Solid mount on passenger side + Mazdacomp on driver = win

I'd be inclined to run it the opposite, but have never tried a mix like that. The drivers side is always the side that breaks first though.

but the motor compresses towards the passenger side...the driver side gets pulled up.

I've got MMR's on the way, if they are too much I'm going to order one MS mount and try the mix. I have a friend that said his MMR's were rough for about the first 3 months then settled down and are nice now.

Right... and IMHO the stock mounts don't fail because of being compressed. I'm with Crashnscar, MS mount should be on the compression side, solid on the tension side. I suspect you'll find the solid one fails eventually from the movement though.

The idea of the solid mounts is to prevent the motor from moving. I figure the solid would be best on the side that compresses, so the motor still doesn't move when torqued.

either way, I think it's a novel idear.

It seems to me like you wouldnt want to mix them, because the solid mount would probably crack because of its complete lack of flexibility.

don't be a hater.

well if theses are too bad and i dont like them with the rattleing and all the maintenence involved i will just switch one side and keep one solid.

and i doubt these will ever break under the force of a stock motor. these are strong. they will break something else before they break

Urethane the stock mounts. Cheap, better than oem, not quite as strong as the MMR's.

Solid motor mounts + ANY street driving = Death (aka suicide)

And this is your potential problem. What is the next weakest link? U-Joints in the drive shaft? Axles?

^^^THIS

Mine are working like a charm. I still love actually finding 3rd gear.

I have the solid mounts ICS use to sell, I like them a lot on the track, they only make the car rattle at idle, my engine is very well balanced so I cant speak for a stock engine, but defiantly makes your car louder inside.

Not sure about the comparison to a miata, but I ran the solid mounts on my srt and never had a problem. I'm using the comp mounts now and they don't compare anywhere close to the solids I had in the neon.

Advantage: Excites the girl in the passenger seat.

Disadvantage: Everything else. They'll rattle your stuff so loose that your motor will stop running. My A/C button would keep falling off when WOT in 2nd gear too.

My Dad used to race Porsche's in the early 90s and he said that is the roughest car he's ever been in.

hmmm....well glad that I got the comps!

I made a pair of solid mounts, and I promptly took them out. I still drive it on the street, and I could not believe how much it rattled. If it is an all out race car, I could see it. If it is not, you may want to think twice about it.:2cents:

looks pretty descent but a lot of vibration no?

The driver side is the one that breaks all the time.

A chassis builder told me to never mix solid and rubber mounts. I had a Camero with solid transmission mounts and rubber motor mounts, and the transmission bell housing kept breaking. I put all solid mounts in and it cured the problem.

It was a track only car and I excepted the rattling. I would say that the Miata rattled about as bad as the fire breathing drag race only Camero. I thought the damn dash was going to crack.

Stupid microphone doesn't do it justice though.

I had a Jeep that had solid mounts. 300hp, 350 turbo tranny, gears axles, jacked up with the works.

Before i bought it,The guy made the mounts cut a square piece of tire and placed it between the motor and the mount used like a washer. Believe it or not. It worked well. I seen that and thought how ghetto when evrything else was so refined. But it worked well.

don't hate on my genius.

well i drove the car today. and the vibration is not that bad. my dash rattles but its loose. just need to go thru the car and get all the little rattles out.

it shifts great and the gas pedal is on off you can really feel the engine now. if you down shift and rev match its so good.


only problem is my car wont idle right lol so it does rattle a decent amount seems to be the worst around 2k any higher or lower then that its not bad at all.

This will be a weekly thing for you. Get used to it.

Fixed

in all honesty if you guys have not driven in the car. it is not near as bad as you guys are making it.

like you guys are being so dramatic its funny. at idle i can barely even tell the difference. and i will get most of the rattles out. my father used to install stereos in cars that rattled way more than these mounts there a little tricks to it.


the only part the dash starts to rattle is 2k to 2300 other than that its a slight hum in the car and the throttle response is awesome and i also put a f1 clutch in and it grabs decent so with the mounts and the new clutch i really like how the car drives now.

so i needed to tear my whole interior out anyways because i am replacing the carpet and dyno matting the fire wall and trans tunnel. and after re installing i doubt there will be anything to complain about.

i like it and i am going to stick with it.

That's all that matters:D
After all its your car. You like the rattles and vibration, power to you.

true but i posted this thread to get an idea before i installed and everyone freaked out and was saying how bad it would be.

in all honesty its not bad at all. is there more vibration yes. and rattling yes.

but my car was not the smoothest to begin with im slowly trying to restore/modify this car i got it pretty much from death and am going thru it end to end.

so the interior is the next step. so if after i reinstall the interior and some things i cant stop rattleing i might buy some poly ones but as of right now the only complaint i have is somthing i had to fix before these either way

meh i like my mmrs they might make the rearview rattle but ohwell the shit stays put and i nvr miss a shift cause of the tranny twisting.

Just curious, why doesnt any one use traction bars to cure the wheel hop instead of trash everything else?

Add some traction bars, add some stiffer springs and you have your self a smooth as butter burnout/takeoff.

Please explain to me how traction bars would work on our rear suspension.

I'm no expert on traction bars, but aren't they for leaf spring suspensions with solid rear axles? The traction bar is a measure to deal with the leaf springs inability of properly keep the axle from twisting.

A Miata's double A arm independent suspension doesn't have this problem, and unless there is some other device also known as a traction bar that works on a Miata, I'm thinking that installing a traction bar on a Miata would make as much sense as installing glow plugs.

This is exactly why I want him to explain to me WTF he's talking about.

perhaps its not called traction bars? Its basically bars with a Johhny joint on each end that mounts to the end of the control arm and mounts around the rear of the door. This holds the axle steady in its place instead of it having some play forward and backwards which is the main problem. It grips, pulls forward slips grips again pulls forward so forth. There was a good writeup some one did on a miata 3 years ago on the miata forum. I have yet to see a vehicle with forward arms and hard suspension suffer wheel hop.

The axle doesn't twist like a solid axle with leaf springs does. :noob:

This.

its not about twisting. Its about the stock control arms having bushings on the ends.

:facepalm: What makes a car wheel hop is when the differential rocks back and forth.

When the car is launched, the differential pivots up. The ppf bends just slightly and then springs the differential down again. This up and down cycle causes the wheel hop.

In straight axle cars, the control arms are at the ends, close to the wheel, because the axle tubes and differential are all one unit.

In an irs car, the only way to keep the differntial from twisting upwards, is to attach some kind of bar from the differential to the chassis and or strengthen the ppf.

Strengthening the control arms does nothing, because they are independent from the differential.

You figure out a way to mount them on a non tubbed miata and we probly would. IRS and no rear frame protruding out for mounting makes it kind of prohibitive on our cars.

From the dead...

I am about to do change mounts from my MMR's to MC ones. I want to try solid mount on passenger side and MC on the driver side. Braindick said this would be a good setup.

Any one ever try mixing the two? My MMR's broke me, but I have a feeling MC only mounts would not be tight enough for my liking.

Well I did MC on drivers side and MMR on the passenger side.
It is alot better, so much more pleasnt to ride in.

Funny thing is now my idle is all sorts of fucked up, and I can barely make 3 psi.
Boost leak? I'm confused

EDIT: BOV fail.

i bought a set of mmr mounts last month and haven't installed them. I'm planning on running one MMR and one Mazspeed mount.

your car is a daily, Bond, how is it?

Haven't finished the front end rehab yet - but if you do pull one your MS mounts, I will gladly take it. Would like to do it before the PAX side suspension is all back together.

Can anyone with MMR mounts measure the thickness of the mount. I plan to make some mounts with some threaded rod and some hockey pucks (yes I'm canadian). Even mearuing a stock mount would be handy if someone has one out of a car. This is not a street car, so I'm alright with all the potential downsides.

Mike

Hockey pucks....that's an old hot rod trick IIRC.

Also wondering if it would be between the MC and MMR mounts to take the MC mount and perform the windoweld trick to create a polyurethane insert of sorts. I don't know how effective it would be, just a thought.

What mounts are the ones that everyone here likes? Is this them MazdaSpeed Mounts on Moss

Sorry to threadjack.

It really depends on what you want. The mounts you are looking at are stiffer than stock, but won't rattle you to death.

The MMR mounts are solid. They will create a lot of vibrations and the gauge needles will be shaky.

Some people mix em up: MMR on Passenger side and the Mazdaspeed on the driver side. This is so it won't be as harsh and I've heard rumors of the heat from a turbo melting MMR mounts.