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Old 08-06-2014, 01:57 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
that is some manly timing on pump gas
European´s 100 octane is like 94 US fuel?
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Old 08-06-2014, 02:01 PM   #22
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You wouldn't NORMALLY run that kind of timing on an FE3, though...

But this one has the Wossners.
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Old 08-06-2014, 02:07 PM   #23
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Stock high-mileage F2T, HX40.

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Old 08-06-2014, 02:09 PM   #24
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250kpa? I thought you were running MANLY boost
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Old 08-06-2014, 02:13 PM   #25
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250kpa with a HX40 is a lot of flow.
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Old 08-06-2014, 02:25 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
250kpa? I thought you were running MANLY boost

I don't run an HX40, nor do i run a standalone. I couldn't tell you what my timing maps are at 30psi. I DO know that they're substantially more aggressive than stock, though. Does that help?
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Old 08-06-2014, 02:41 PM   #27
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I was actually kinda surprised by that screenshot, thought you finally saw the light and got rid of the AIDZ

Guess not
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Old 08-06-2014, 02:43 PM   #28
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If the car ever gets a built bottom end (it won't), maybe. Until then, ain't care.
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Old 08-06-2014, 06:19 PM   #29
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Back from garage:



Manifold gasket leaks. You guys know your stuff. Interestingly there was no smell or chirk. Maybe it leaked only under load.

And I found a problem in my logs with the MAT-sensor temp. As soon as the engine gets hotter, the sensor stays at enginebay ambient temp. It pulls a lot of timing.

Thank you guys! Bye for now!
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Old 08-06-2014, 06:49 PM   #30
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Take it easy the first time you go out and boost it without the leaks. Don't blow it!
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Old 08-08-2014, 07:55 PM   #31
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Hi!

Update:

I wrote a update on my boost problem 5 or 6 hours ago, but decided to go back to garage, where the shitbox sleeps.

I´ve done the following "mods" in the last two days on the "car", but nothing has changed except the boost starts roughly 300 - 500 rpms earlier:

- machined the manifold flange flat
- ported and cleaned up the turbo collector
- checked cam and ignition timing
- new gaskets on manifold flange and turbo inlet
- new sealant between the comp. housing halves
- upgraded the new tial clone wastegate to my old turbosmart
- watched a southpark dvd in the meantime
- hocked up the pcv valve hoses correctly
- cleaned the enginebay look from nearly ghettostyle to suburbanstyle
- connected the wastegate-line to the inlet manifold

But:

Sitting in front of my car, with brain mode on (what a experience), i´ve decided to hock up a "screamer pipe" to the wastegate down to the road near the oilpan.

Thereafter, once again, went out for a testdrive on our small german village roads.

And.....baaam.... 14-17 psi. With 20+ psi worth of wastegate-preload. God save the overboost cut. My ve-tables and timings are safe, so no damage.
There is some serious high pre-turbo pressure.
Running a open dump is not a solution, so I need a professional made manifold.

My self-imposed budget to build the car is nearly depleted, rest of the budget was retained for some future rods and cams.

I´ve decided to sell the GT3582R. For the money, a good manifold. No future plans on turbo-sizing, brand or Pmax.


Conclusion: I have underrated the small, but important things. Underrated how fast the car is even at 14-17 psi. And overrated my skills to build a high hp car.

A dream comes true? Not always.
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Old 08-08-2014, 07:57 PM   #32
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I can't brain how that would fix things...

Improper wastegate placement should INCREASE minimum boost, not decrease maximum boost.
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Old 08-08-2014, 08:10 PM   #33
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Fact is, there is some real boost now.
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Old 08-08-2014, 10:10 PM   #34
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How have you plugged the other side where the wastegate connects too? You sure you don't have a plugged CAT and now the hole where the wastegate connects to is providing the exhausting means from the turbo? (Sorry if what i think your exhaust looks like is not correct)
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