Forged pistons with 1.8 engine
 

What??? Do you know anything about cars?

What does mileage have to do with anything if you're rebuilding it? A lot of people have built motors here, and where did you get that T3s max out at 20 psi?

a stock engine thats been beat to hell and back.... with 210k. why not spend a little more money and get one with under 50k. Very reasonable. would i rather have a 2008 engine or a 91 engine. do you know anything? and I want a 1.8! read it before you run your mouth.

Um that's fine you want a 1.8 cool...good story bro!!!

Still wtf does it matter if it has under 50K--if you're going to build it?

bad mood? All i did was put the mileage of the engine i was getting... what if i said.. ya i am gettin a engine with 450k and rebuilding it? by that time... if it has had a rough life.. its not a strong block compared to 50k.

No son, not mad just you are asking questions that could be asked if you just searched and read the stickies. Also, I still don't know where you got this information on T3s being small, and where you can only get 20 psi from them.

Dude, did you seriously just link to Yahoo Answers?

I lol'd.

wow take time to put up a cool picture... anyways im not sayin on this forum but i have two buddies that are runnin 15psi and 10psi. they are not runnin garret t3 or anything special like that just a low budget turbo. they get the job done for what they want but they cant push more than 21psi. one of there is engines is forged

and the link to yahoo was just a point that a engine with over 200k is weaker

Please delete thread and perma-ban OP... this one isn't even clever.

really wat is the deal with people... grow up! its a simple comment thread. I asked a question no need to get all emotional samnavy.

psi goal or power goal?

So an Iron block is weaker because it has 200K? Shit maybe I better upgrade to a brand new block since mine has 180K. If you're changing the damn pistons its like new...holly hell I need to stop feeding the troll.

psi goal. want run somewhere around 25-30psi

i said i was puttin in pistons. there would be no difference at all if i was doing pistons, rods, crankshaft, crankshaft bearings, rigs, and block work.

Well if you knew anything about Miata's you'd know rods are the weak point not the pistons. Good luck

25-30 psi.

I can barely think of 1 or 2 people who are past 20. And its not really as easy as "hurr durr let me build a block and put a t3 on it".

idontthinksotim.

at 25-30 psi what is your expected power goals?

Just pop a tiny restrictor after the turbo, and run 40.

Edit: OP, You are also a rectal ranger for making me read your superhellafagalicious html first post. The 90's came and went.

If the op isn't a troll then he's an idiot that didn't read the FAQ sticky.

sorry i dont wack off to chiltons miata guide mag like yourself. its obvious to replace rods with pistons. but w.e ill get back on here and rub it all in your face when its done.

and martinez.... thank you! thats why i asked if anyone knew anything because i dont know anyone past 20 except for troll feeder boy

So you're calling your self a troll now??? Are you from America? Unless you're going to make over 600 whp then nothing will be rubbed in my face. :loser:

Fixed.
OP=:jerkit:

:m-freak:

where are u getting 600hp from? and if ur 1.6 is that powerfull lets see a vid or something.

I like you. You are my type of fella.

I'm getting 600 whp from the 30K I have into my car, once you get on my level we can talk business. My car isn't done all my parts should be here in the next 4-6 weeks and will be on the dyno sometime end of May, or June.

FUCK YOU

PSI =/= POWER

BTW: FUCK YOU

I promise guys, not all of us from KC are this ghey. God I hope you're a troll.

My point was one does not simply walk into mor-
Wait.
I mean, one does not simply run 25-30 psi.
If you have to make a thread to be spoonfed on how to successfully run 25-30 psi, you won't ever run 25-30 psi.
0/10 unsuccessful troll.

Me too.

OP, please post pics of yourself with your shirt off so we can spank and jizz gloriously to them.

OP will get loved tenderly:laugh:

lol yea id rather have a 2008 miata engine ROFL. MZR swap with psitons and an ebay turbo ftw.

Nice new sig 18.

Dann

ya all you tasty danish fags are ricers. all kc is either ricer or mustangs. eat shit fag. and everyone else... wats up with all the gay shit?? you keep posting your favorites on the forum.. not the right place. and troll troll troll... idc wat the fuck u call me.. u would sit there and jack off to my picture... all this gay posted stuff coming from grown men in miatas... cool real cool

:makeout: :giggle: You got it right!!!

:facepalm: this shit is starting to get annoying

OP should look into the sweet azz turbo rotary with pistons upgrade. Mustang GTR style..pretty rare

Man, you guys are fucking assholes.

OP, here is what you do:

First off, you are dead on about getting a block with low mileage. By 100K cast iron is significanly weaker due to the sheer number of heat cycles it has been through REGARDLESS of the differences between highway miles and stop and go traffic. Beyond the simple strength of a new block, it will flex less, meaning you are going to have a much more consistent tune. Honestly, I would get a new block from the factory. They are still available if you contact the right dealer.

Next, ditch the stock rods. Forged pistons will not only handle the boost better, they will also be lighter, meaning you can rev faster.

For an ECU, you should skip all the lame stuff like MegaSquirt and go strait for a MOTEC setup. More expensive and more complex maybe, but if you want to do this right, its the way to go.

T3 turbos are pretty much old news. While T3/T4s can definitely work, personal opinion is that you need a S500 series turbo to run that kind of boost consitently. Old Garret stuff is too sensitive to the ambient temp and other factors.

Finnally, what trans will you use? Thats where you will need to really do your homework on this. Some people swear by the 6 speeds, particularly later year MS units, but IMHO something along the lines of a w58 trans from a Toyo is going to be more reliable.

Keep in mind that people get all hung-up on power levels online. Ask anyone on the street actually doing some real-deal highway roll-on racing and they will tell you that a 500HP high boost car can take a car making slightly more power but a bit less boost simply because the higher boost car make more TQ. TQ matters, not some dyno plot that only measures HP.

I dont blame you for not staying on this forum. Frankly most of the really helpful, knowledgeable people are over on the Club Roadster forums and Miata.net.

Good Luck!

piston rotary
http://cache.pakwheels.com/forums/20...heels(com).gif

Someone has been watching the LeMons forums :)

nah, thats a radial piston engine in that mr2. But yes I do like that mr2 build.

Sorry I actually dont know what ive done to piss you off here...?

Dann

LOL not you dude. I was saying that the mods fucking with my sig is getting annoying. (they keep changing it lol)

Sweet, i was thinking, I respect this guy here, and give props to his sig, now hes pissed off with me.. Aren't I ranting to noobs about their flaming homosexuality around here enough? I know I dont fit in when I tell noobs to shut up and listen rather than just tell them to run a 500 shot.. lol

Cheers mate,
Dann

sounds like a good time :giggle:

Wow... this is totally wrong. Low miles will certainly have less corrosion in the water jacket, but did you cite that issue, nope. You went with heat stress. If your engine is getting hot enough to cause atomic creep in cast iron, you have serious issues. An engine should never, ever get that hot. So basically, the strength of an old block, corrosion argument aside, will be the same as a new block. And in some cases will actually be stronger due to nitrogen in the combustion chambers being absorbed into the cylinder jackets on an atomic scale.


Yes power levels do matter, way more than pressure levels. More boost doesn't make more torque. It actually makes less, more boost means more heat. I don't care how amazingly awesome your intercooler is, higher initial temperature means higher cylinder temperature. And I don't know what dyno you go to that doesn't measure torque, because that one is physically impossible. You can't just measure 'Power'. The HP is calculated by measuring the torque and then deriving the power from that measurement.

Did you seriously not catch his sarcasm?:noob:

Apparently not. I am discovering that posting before coffee is just as dangerous as drunk posting. Meh, wouldn't be th first I've put my foot in mouth on the interwebz. :loser:

radial engines works a "bit" differently otherwise you got unhappy passengers on the plane :bowrofl:

Well after i saw this i had to post it here...

http://thekneeslider.com/images/radialbike.jpg

Tee hee! The kid that is building his car around a target PSI called me a ricer! how cute! Well, you still live in KC and I left, so I guess that makes you right, KC is all ricer.

I was under the impression that fighter jets that say US NAVY across the side were not rice, but I guess I was wrong. Hey can you teach me to run 20psi too? My old rx-7 only ran 14, granted it broke the tires loose in 3rd gear, but boost is what matters amirite?

yeah radial engines have a moving crankshaft
Rotary pistons have a stationary crankshaft and have their cylinders move around them.

The other rotary engines:

This is a disgusting post...has no business in any miata forum..should have been deleted....and I cant believe the op took the time to answer with this supposedly funny garbage?

If you want something worse I can give it to you. If you don't like it, don't read it. This is the only way I can climax, deal with it.