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Old 10-30-2013, 08:12 PM   #21
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look up the meaning of "overwhelm"
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:29 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
Uhh, if that last VD is correct you are near 400whp?
In which case 70IDC on a wally and ID's is actually right on the money

I've used 255's on all my NB's. Haven't had FPR issues yet, and they all had/have stock FPR's.

Whatever that's worth.
I don't think I can get much more out of it though. At 20psi boost, and 60psi fuel rail pressure 60-20= 40psi effective...problem is if I try 25psi boost, now my 900cc injectors rated at 43.5psi now only have 35psi of effective pressure. With that inverse relationship going on, you start running into high duty cycles quicker than expected. I guess 400whp is nothing to complain about though! Honestly I don't think I want any more, stuff starts breaking and it can already be scary at times.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:43 PM   #23
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At a certain point you must upgrade a LOT of things to keep going. I think that point is somewhere 350-400. Below that, so far at least, I've not had any issues with the setup I posted.

And if you're really making 400 like your VD says, I don't think you'll ever be bored and want more......
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:42 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
look up the meaning of "overwhelm"


So basically it will increase my base fuel pressure if it overwhelms it. I guess the problem comes when/if it fluctuates like mentioned earlier in the thread. If it overwhelms the stock FPR and raises the base fuel pressure 10psi consistently, than good for me i guess. If it fluctuates than your tune will never be right. Mine is sure holding up fine for now at least.
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:57 AM   #25
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Subscribed. I'm running the 255HP pump with stock '92 lines and aeromotive AFPR, E10 gasoline. I figured I would have to switch to a new pump and fuel lines to hit my >400rwhp target but the plan is to see if the current fuel system works before spending the money on something that might not be required.

I think Savington replaced the fuel system on Thesus, there must have been a reason. Unless I am getting confused with a trackspeed V8 car.
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Old 10-31-2013, 12:45 PM   #26
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The easy way to bypass the stock FPR is to run the MTuned fuel rail. When I looked I never found an adapter plate that had our FPR flange on one side and any sort of thead on the other.

FPR wise, fuel lab or aeromotive. The AEM is serviceable but I'm still awaiting the day that the seal blows and it starts leaking fuel all over my engine bay.

Gimme a pic of the stock FPR. I'm pretty sure i know what you need, and it costs like... $15 shipped.
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Old 10-31-2013, 12:53 PM   #27
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Gimme a pic of the stock FPR. I'm pretty sure i know what you need, and it costs like... $15 shipped.
Just google. The flat face on our FPR is not the sealing surface, a little **** that goes into the hole on the rail has the sealing oring. I was just going to make a plate like I have on other cars/bikes out of some scrap but it was gonna be too much work for this one.
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:00 PM   #28
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90-93



94-97



99-05
Attached Thumbnails
Fuel System Upgrades-e2fa7861e8482cf2130fe4d385ecfed2__52409_std.jpg   Fuel System Upgrades-c02e48c28507ba31ebb43938833daa76__00179_std.jpg   Fuel System Upgrades-45dfdeed695b805a6d8a0ac7fb6222a2__38728_std.jpg   Fuel System Upgrades-933b5c30c209398c34fde2737c2f6aa8__16183_std.jpg  
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:12 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Just google. The flat face on our FPR is not the sealing surface, a little **** that goes into the hole on the rail has the sealing oring. I was just going to make a plate like I have on other cars/bikes out of some scrap but it was gonna be too much work for this one.

Right. Same setup as KL and F2T. The adapters are all over Ebay for none of the money.



[edit]

Just saw the pics.

Yep, same piece.

Here's a fancy one. Knockoffs are all over the place if you change your search words slightly.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TurboSmart-F...db6a67&vxp=mtr
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:16 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
Right. Same setup as KL and F2T. The adapters are all over Ebay for none of the money.



[edit]

Just saw the pics.

Yep, same piece.

Here's a fancy one. Knockoffs are all over the place if you change your search words slightly.

Turbosmart Fuel Pressure Regulator Adapter for Subaru Nissan Mazda TS 0402 1001 | eBay
Where were you last year? The next problem would be finding an elbow tight enough to clear 99+ intake manifolds.
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:21 PM   #31
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I'm a little surprised this is new information... these have been out for a LONG time, i've been using them on my MX6 for about... 4 years? KL guys for probably a decade, and Mazda isn't really known for using eleventy billion different regulators.


I actually even used mine as a blockoff plate. Bought that thing, stuck a plug in the threaded portion, then cracked the nut off the end of my rail, which i then threw an adapter to -6 into, ran that to regulator, back to factory return line on firewall. I didn't like the factory FPR placement, how it sat between cylinders 1 and 2.
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:24 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Where were you last year? The next problem would be finding an elbow tight enough to clear 99+ intake manifolds.
You mean this tight?

Turbosmart Fuel Pressure Regulator Adapter for Mitsubishi EVO TS 0402 1014 | eBay

That's gotta be threaded in there. $23 to find out
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Old 11-11-2013, 07:38 PM   #33
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So hold my hand a little, i think i'm right i just want to double check.

For my 95 engine / fuel rail / FPR i'm going to want this thing
Turbosmart Fuel Pressure Regulator Adapter for Subaru Nissan Mazda TS 0402 1001 | eBay
That Ben posted, along with something like this.

Fuelab Adjustbale Fuel Pressure Regulator - Modern Automotive Performance


From what i understand, that FPR would just adapt to that adapter. But the adapter doesn't say in which means that happens. Is it just a universal? I see the return is -6an and i can choose between -6an and -10an inlet.

Also from what i'm reading about my DW300 pump, is that this regulator should be able to handle it's output. Which at 14.2a will do 100psi.

Lastly, im sure it's possible to connect a -6an line to the stock hardline. Is this a thing that people do? Would would it take to do that(besides the obvious -6an lines) some kind of hardline to braided line adapter?
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Old 11-11-2013, 08:05 PM   #34
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Flare the hardline to -AN.
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