Sarcasm?

 

One was completely closed, the other was completely open. I'm using virtual dyno to plot them... I'd love a real dyno but money is running low so i gotta settle. I think before i made more power up top with the vics in tact. I'll do few more pulls once i start tunning on E85 (just switched)

 

He is super cereal. In fact, there is so much rpm data that I can't tell if Triple88 made his pulls up 2,000 rpm, or eleventy-billion rpm.

 

So what you're telling me is you used fake dyno? Dude, this is serious. I need real dyno numbers before I go cutting out some shiz that I don't know is going to do anything...

 

You need to educate yourself on this subject before making ignorant comments like this. VD can be just as consistent as a real dyno if used correctly. Having dyno'd on a "real" dyno and "fake" dyno back to back, Ill never talk crap about a properly made VD plot

 

Feel free to donate some credits to my paypal account and i'll go real dyno it at sound performance the next day they are open

My plots were done back to back... did one pull, then pressed the button to open it, did the other pull, same stretch of road 10 seconds apart. Of course there could have been some more wind the 2nd pull or ----...since this is the windy city.

 

Why no rpm data? We need your rpm daterz.

 

Don't take what I said the wrong way...do you have any other detailed photos of your intake?

 

Similar to this one but mine isnt this clean to the wall.
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/intake-manifold-modification-more-29501/

 

Thought I'd put this here. You'd think this would help. While I had it off, I measured the length of the intake runners. From the start of the lower half to the top of the intake valve it's 18.5 inches (470mm) measured around the outside radius of the manifold and the head. Wow, that's a long way to travel. It seems to make sense now why the honda manifold makes better flow on the top end. I still went ahead and cut mine while I had it out, what the hell....
But from what I understand about 250-300 mm is a better option.

 

Hey Jeff what tools are you using to do this magic?

 

It's called a die grinder. I bought it at Harbor Freight for about $30 a couple years ago. Beat the ---- outta it. Still runs great. Uses 1/4 in shank attachments. The lower took about three hours and beer. Use plenty of WD-40. The aluminum won't stick to the carbide cutter-win. Final clean/polish with 60 grit flap wheel. Car wash clean-up. Bolt back in. Beer.