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I might have a relay problem, but may not, this seems like the best thread to continue the discussion!
Drove the car one weekend, went to go drive it the next weekend and it never started
Rundown:
- Crank but no start
- No CEL with key
- NO RPM with cranking
- Fuel smell after cranking without spark plugs, but no priming from the pump
Progress:
- Replaced/Regapped CKS(Crank Position Sensor)
- Replaced 10A Room fuse
- Replaced B5B4 INJ fuse
- I've found that if I clamp the right side of the old relay (pictured below) to make contact with the rest of the relay I get a click/hum in the bay
- When I do this, I get the CEL
- Still no RPM on crank
- With the new relay, I get nothing (no hum/click, no CEL, no crank)
Did I get another bad relay? Or is this a deeper problem?
Bumping a 7 year old thread to state you hope a solution exists isn't the best way to solve your issue. The best answer is to use a multimeter and start tracking voltage to see where you have it and where you don't. Find schematics and trace from there.
7 years since last post, 12 years since the start... Whatever, might as well add to it now that this thread is back at the top.
The main relay provides direct power to the fuel pump relay, which is the largest load on the main relay. Both of those relays are the same style, and are stupid expensive for what they are. Both are known to fail on NA/NB.
My recommendation for a permanent fix is to power the fuel pump relay direct from the battery, and change the fuel pump relay from that stupid, hard to find format Mazda used, to the generic and ubiquitous Bosch style cube relay in the 50 amp flavor. You'll remove most of the load on the main relay and virtually eliminate the chance of failure there. For the fuel pump relay, if you get a failure even after upsizing the rated amperage, changing to the Bosch style means you'll actually be able to get a replacement part that day for less than $75 or waiting on Rockauto to deliver.
Either make it yourself like I showed here, or buy the Trackspeed kit for a plug and play solution.
7 years since last post, 12 years since the start... Whatever, might as well add to it now that this thread is back at the top.
The main relay provides direct power to the fuel pump relay, which is the largest load on the main relay. Both of those relays are the same style, and are stupid expensive for what they are. Both are known to fail on NA/NB.
My recommendation for a permanent fix is to power the fuel pump relay direct from the battery, and change the fuel pump relay from that stupid, hard to find format Mazda used, to the generic and ubiquitous Bosch style cube relay in the 50 amp flavor. You'll remove most of the load on the main relay and virtually eliminate the chance of failure there. For the fuel pump relay, if you get a failure even after upsizing the rated amperage, changing to the Bosch style means you'll actually be able to get a replacement part that day for less than $75 or waiting on Rockauto to deliver.
Either make it yourself like I showed here, or buy the Trackspeed kit for a plug and play solution.
Thanks for your help bud. I think People forget that new users of these cars and the issues they find happen daily. And where most people are fully electrically it's the forums that help just a small portion of the way. But hey that's the new car scene I guess. I found my issue and I should have the car back up and running this weekend.
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