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Hi Rick.
My compliments on your Build.
Rick I am interested to know if you still have the Skunk 2 Ultra Street Flange that you cut of for your Miata.
I have a project going and could make good use of the removed Flange for my B16B Type R Honda Motor.
Please PM me if you are interested and able to supply for suitable agreed reward.
Cheers Rick
From hotbricks (Shane)
Sorry, the flange was cut into pieces as I had to hacksaw off the flange prior to the finishing cutting on the table saw. I needed to test fit to set the angle.
I've seen a CAD version of the B-series flanges somewhere. You should be able to download it easy enough and then get it waterjet / CNC cut.
Just a bump back from the past... I pulled this manifold off the engine last week and inspected all the welds. No cracks to be seen which is awesome considering the vibrations that go through my engine. It looks like this style of bracing works very well if anyone is modifying a Honda manifold in the future. BTW I still think the straight runner design is 10x better than the curved miata skunk2 intake. So it's still a worthwhile mod for anyone with a very heavily worked engine. Also there is a center feed Skunk2 available now... That would be interesting on a highly boosted engine.
Last rebuild this engine hit over 220whp @ 8,800 rpm. The main mods since this thread was the mechanical water pump switched to EWP, reworked head with new valves (RB26 supertech), more revs, and a dogbox with straight cut gears.
Just a bump back from the past... I pulled this manifold off the engine last week and inspected all the welds. No cracks to be seen which is awesome considering the vibrations that go through my engine. It looks like this style of bracing works very well if anyone is modifying a Honda manifold in the future. BTW I still think the straight runner design is 10x better than the curved miata skunk2 intake. So it's still a worthwhile mod for anyone with a very heavily worked engine. Also there is a center feed Skunk2 available now... That would be interesting on a highly boosted engine.
Last rebuild this engine hit over 220whp @ 8,800 rpm. The main mods since this thread was the mechanical water pump switched to EWP, reworked head with new valves (RB26 supertech), more revs, and a dogbox with straight cut gears.
100 percent true about runner shape IMO too. Curved manifold works great on engines where you have very nice "straight shot" to the valve from the top. After porting out my head I ended up with almost straight portion inside the head (I believe it is about 22deg on roof, measured from flange face) and manifold angle is about the same. With for me optimal runner lenght of 350mm velocity stacks end up just before shock tower. Oh and I can agree on that bracing too. I saw many custom manifolds, friend of mine Peugeot 306 with 270hp, 750Hp golf 2 (karl schagerl) with tripple fuel rail and longest runner lenght I ever seen on Turbo car except peugeot 405 T16 PP car. Both of those cars have straight manifold and both have this kind of bracing. I will add triangle brace on the runner from top - something like simpson uses on their Exhaust manifolds.
After four years of running this manifold I figured whilst I had it off my car I may as well smooth out the casting marks and bell mouths. I'm modifying the throttle bracket to make a throttle blipper for my sequential.
After four years of running this manifold I figured whilst I had it off my car I may as well smooth out the casting marks and bell mouths. I'm modifying the throttle bracket to make a throttle blipper for my sequential.
What is the length of the manifold, from flange of the last runner to end(top) of plenum.. close to the brake master?
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