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Old 04-19-2012, 09:53 PM   #1
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Smile How to Inspect an Oil pump

How to Inspect an Oil pump

Mazda BP 1.8L



First thing is to have the oil pump off the engine.



Some of the tools needed



Impact driver with a #3 phillips bit
#3 phillips screwdriver
Hammer
Needle nose pliers

Start by using the impact driver and hammer and loosen the oil pump back plate screws.



Once all the screws are loose, use the screwdriver and remove the screws.



Now lift away the oil pump back plate.


Look for scoring and excessive wear on the plate.


This one looks good with just a minimal amount of wear.

Now look for wear and scoring on the back of the gears.


Now reach in a remove the oil pump drive gear.


Flip it over and inspect the front.



Now reach in and remove the driven gear.


Now flip it over and look for wear and scoring.



Now inspect the pump housing.


So far this oil pump looks good. No scoring, and minimal wear lines have been found.

Now time to check the oil bypass


First is to straighten the cotter pin.

Use the needle nose pliers.

To remove the cotter pin, use the needle nose pliers and press down on the spring seat.
The cotter pin should pull out with your fingers.

Try not to let the spring seat and spring fly out!


Remove the spring seat and spring.


Now remove the plunger valve.


Inspect the plunger for wear.
This one had wear on the same side as the bypass hole in the oil pump housing.



Inspect the plunger bore in the housing.
I did not see any wear, even below the bypass hole in the oil pump housing.

I measured the plunger. .628 dia.


The bore in the oil pump housing measured .6295

So the clearance is .0015

Any amount of grit or trash in the oil pan stands a good chance of locking the plunger valve.

I did not notice any strange wear patterns on the bypass spring ends.



The bypass spring, by my math, holds the plunger closed with a installed pressure of 10lbs @ 1.430 and 20lbs @ 1.130
Free length is 1.770
Dia. of the spring is .440
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:54 PM   #2
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BTW, this was all shot in maco/flower mode.
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:11 PM   #3
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awesome post. you have a ton of valuable knowledge for people like me lol
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:12 PM   #4
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LOL! swich from "M" to "A" mode?
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:23 PM   #5
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you know if you hold the button half way down, it'll focus without taking a picture. then you can snap the picture by pressing it the rest of the way. dont just jab down all at once.

also that .0015 clearance... you mention easily locking up the plunger. Guess what, that happens a lot (at least anecdotally).
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:35 PM   #6
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Y8... Yes I have heard of 2 cases in my short time here so far.

Just wanted to post some sort of base line data.
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:42 PM   #7
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I love your threads/posts soo much, but ---- those pictures actually hurt my eyes!!!

We need to do something about this camera situation. lol

Really though, awesome threads. I look forward to learning a lot from you.
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:43 PM   #8
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Sweet!!!
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:46 PM   #9
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Aaron, Thats your pump, the old one. How many miles on that engine?
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Old 04-19-2012, 11:16 PM   #10
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------- awesome information with useless pics!
damnit!
my pump is sitting on my builder's desk and i think he's gonna do something similar disassembling it.
288 miles with a pressure relief valve failure and low oil pressure.
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Old 04-20-2012, 10:47 AM   #11
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130k or so on the engine
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Old 04-20-2012, 10:51 AM   #12
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Holy blurry pictures Batman!

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Old 05-05-2012, 03:00 AM   #13
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What can be done at home to make the bypass valve more reliable/not stick? Is it recommended to polish the plunger with say 1500 grit so it move in the bore easier. I'm no expert but this was my first thought.
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Old 05-05-2012, 03:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
you know if you hold the button half way down, it'll focus without taking a picture. then you can snap the picture by pressing it the rest of the way. dont just jab down all at once.

also that .0015 clearance... you mention easily locking up the plunger. Guess what, that happens a lot (at least anecdotally).
Yes. Hold button down halfway to focus. Otherwise I only have semi boner.

I am your champion SVO

All you need to do is post your paypal email and I will send you full body pics plus paypal cash.

But

Still

It hurts me the blurry
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:10 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landrew View Post
What can be done at home to make the bypass valve more reliable/not stick? Is it recommended to polish the plunger with say 1500 grit so it move in the bore easier. I'm no expert but this was my first thought.
Good question, is like an answer to this also. Mine has some wear on the side by the hole, should I try to polish it, or spin it around so the smooth side is against the hole again?
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:44 PM   #16
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Cool

Im interested as well. Also does anyone have a stock replacment oil pump they recomend, besides BE?
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Old 05-17-2012, 10:54 PM   #17
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I have a couple of ideas, I am a bit leary to post them.
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Old 05-18-2012, 02:40 AM   #18
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I had an epic thread that pieced all these threads together nicely, then it got deleted. Next time I have a half hour...
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Old 02-27-2013, 12:13 AM   #19
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Getting the BE gears on the pump tonight and assembled the pump with plastigauge, the pump to gear clearance was 0.005 on the side clearance, I faced the pump housing with sandpaper on a surface plate and it is now closer to the min specs on the outer gear but a little loose on the inner gear.
Has anyone plastigauge their pump before puting it on the car, look at the photos, any suggestions?
Thanks

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Old 02-28-2013, 10:18 PM   #20
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The oil pump plate bolts on my 2000 motor are TORX T-30.
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