I don't need to quote the extra flow diameter numbers do i?

No...no you don't.

Got an A in Fluid Dynamics, and a year later here I am facepalming myself.

Was too eager to take it out, and my mom was putting XP on the old Vaio to use as a tuning laptop since the hinge on mine freaks out and puts it into hibernation, killing datalogs, every time I hit a bump.

I was running your timing map, dialed back 15%, had added 5 and 10 to the top two rows of boost I see on the VE table, and the WI is purely a safety blanket.

I want to jump of the 7th floor of the library right now, good thing I'm on the 3rd floor of the Engr/Phys building huh.


EDIT: No, I don't live with my mom...she takes care of my 3yr old daughter during the day.

You will look back at this one day and laugh.

As long as I'm driving the new Boxster Spyder that day of the week.

Great news! You have oil pressure!

Wait......

Seriously though, does the car make horrible death sounds when you crank it? If it was a chunk of piston or a valve in there even running the starter would result in some nasty rattles.

I do have oil pressure.

No bad sounds, although if I put my ear right over the motor it sounds a little hollow...strange.

Will have to make time for proper diagnosis when I finally get home this evening.

I call fuel line --> possibly in-tank, especially if its a recently installed piece. Did you install a new fuel pump recently?

In the INJ fuse were out, there'd be no power to the MS, the CAS, or anything else on the Main Relay. Probing the white/red wires at the injector connectors for +12 relative to GND would still be a good idea, though.



Well, don't jump out of any buildings just yet. Any chance your VC gasket is shot, and oil was simply pooled up in the spark plug wells which fell in when you pulled the plugs?


Ok, maybe a short building...


Still, let's assume that something catastrophic did happen to #1 and #2. #3 and #4 should still be firing.

I can't quite tell if there's a Zebra on the horizon just yet...


Relatively easy to check for. Listen to the FPR with the pump running (screwdriver in ear.) You can hear fuel sloshing through it when the pump is on.

Or just disconnect one of the lines under the hood and have someone turn the car on very briefly while you catch the emitted fuel in a can, with a fire extinguisher nearby but just outside of the likely blast radius.

^^

I did have something similar happen to me (Hydra-EMS) it was the injector fuse

Then perhaps his main relay shit the bed?

Good news!


I've got compression:

150
140
150
150

Keep in mind this is a cold test, can't really warm up the motor right now.

Screwdriver test also tells me I've got spark.

I verified cam timing.

Just leaves fuel, and don't have any carb and choke cleaner handy. No smell of unburnt fuel at all during cranking, and WBO2 stays full lean before, during and after cranking.

FPR checks out, can hear fuel passing by, pump is on. Pulling the main EFI relay shuts off everything: pump, MS, LC-1.

I do not get tach info in MT, and dash tach does not move...which doesn't make sense since I'm getting spark.

Reflashed map, no change.




MODS feel free to move this to MegaSquirter section.

NO PART-OUT you big bunch of sharks.

Sweet! So whats the deal with the slightly visible chunk? Its obviously not a valve or piston chunk. Maybe just the really tricky light in there or a bit of carbon build-up?

The dash tach gets signal from the ignition or the CAS?

Souds like an electrical failure killing fuel. Totaly makes sense since the engine died but turns freely. The same failure likely killed power needed for the tach of somehow killed signal to it. You said you have oil pressure, meaning that the oil pressure guage will move a bit when you are cranking it?

MT and dash get tach signal from coils. check the MAIN fuse.

Goddamnit what's this main fuse everyone speaks of?

All the underhood fuses are good, the big 80amp, two 40amps, and a 30.

Do any of your dash needles move at all?

Yes, all of them.

Or all but the tach.

As long as my COPS are firing I should be getting tachout signal right?

It sounds like you have a bad case of Boneitis.
http://cleverocity.com/albums/future...restock202.jpg

But seriously, are you leaking oil anywhere? Is your PCV valve working properly? Is it possible your crankcase became super pressurized and blew something? It doesn't sound like you went too lean and detonated. When I grenaded my fourth cylinder it was catastrophic. The motor would still turn fine, but there were bits of metal everywhere. Oh and I had like no compression in the cylinder.

Oh yeah, no oil leaks...


I think the oil on the #1 and #2 plugs was from two oil fills. I ran a flush for about an hour Monday, drained, and then poured new oil. I used to be a bartender so I freehand, and funnels are for pussies. Occasionally I miss.

If all the other guages work fine then that (correct me if I am wrong here folks) eans that the reason the tach is not doing its thing is that it is not getting any RPM signal even when the engine is turning. If the signal comes from the COPs and they are working great for sure, then its pretty darn likely that the link from the COPs to the tach is the failure point. I doubt its a coincidence that this occurs just as the engine refuses to run. Is there some way that the link from the COPs to the tach shorted and also killed RPM signal to the MS? Would you get any fuel injection if you have no tach signal to the MS?

If the answer is no, then you have about a 90% chance that that tach signal wire/circuit/link of some sort from the COPs is the problem.

Insulation rubbed off and firewall grounding FTL.