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Old 08-10-2011, 05:17 PM   #1
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Cool ITT: Rebuilding for reliability - 2011 edition (more parts)

So, my built 94 engine broke down due to bearing #3 failure. Root cause was determined to be temporary oil starvation. This time we're doing things slightly different. Full car spec:

Chassis and safety:
- 1994 Mazda MX-5 EUDM DONE
- Full cage, welded, CrMo ENHANCING
- Sabelt 6-point harness DONE
- Sparco Pro ADV seat DONE

Engine bottom end:
- 1999 1.8 block, 55k miles IN STOCK
- M-Tuned Connecting Rods IN STOCK
- JE Pistons 84.0mm 9.0:1 ORDERED
- ARP Head and Main Studs ORDERED
- Maruha Racing Oil Pan Baffle IN STOCK
- ACL Race bearings IN STOCK
- ATI Damper pulley kit IN STOCK
- Ishihara-Johnson Teflon Crank Scraper IN STOCK
- Gates Racing Timing Belt 90-05 Miata IN STOCK
- Boundary Engineering Chromoly Racer Oil Pump Assembly, 1 shim ORDERED

Engine Head:
- 1999 1.8 intake manifold w/VICSIN STOCK
- Port matching
- IL adjustable cam gears IN STOCK
- Supertech Inconel I+E valves + 3-angle valve job
- New OEM valve retainers
- Hondata Miata Intake Manifold Heatshield gasket IN STOCK
- Injector Dynamics ID1000 Fuel Injectors ORDERED

Cooling and filtering:
- BEGI Intercooler #3 ORDERED
- IL Oil filter relocation kit IN STOCK
- Setrab oil cooler DONE
- K&N Oval air filter DONE
- Catch can (hot side only) DONE
- Dual-Row Race Radiator ORDERED

Turbo and exhaust:
- BEGI log manifold with Garrett GT2560R DONE
- Trackspeed Engineering Inconel Stud Kit IN STOCK
- EBC Electronic Boost Control Solenoid Kit IN STOCK

ECU:
- DTAfast S60PRO ORDERED
- 36-1 wheel ORDERED

Last edited by Laur3ns; 08-31-2011 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 08-10-2011, 05:45 PM   #2
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Low comp ceramic coated top pistons!!!!!!!!

I just posted this earlier today
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Old 08-10-2011, 06:22 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
* Why no LS1?
There is no good reason unless the answer is ls3/7... when my motor finally pops...
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Old 08-10-2011, 06:33 PM   #4
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I think Supertech's will be fine up to 300whp or so, probably higher.

If I wanted more I'd look at Arias or BME.
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Old 08-10-2011, 06:36 PM   #5
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Somewhere I hope my oil pump (OEM) is shattered because then it's a know defect so I can trust the next engine will last longer...
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Old 08-10-2011, 06:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverlegacy View Post
There is no good reason unless the answer is ls3/7... when my motor finally pops...
Well $ or € is the reason for me. The LS1 plus transaxle plus parts (subframe) plus labour will sum up to ""
and forces me to look into a Radial SR3.
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Old 08-10-2011, 06:43 PM   #7
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Very true. A good swap done on the cheap would be upwards of $7-9k US, and I'm sure they are much harder to source over there.
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Old 08-11-2011, 04:42 AM   #8
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Bringing the car in to see what is going on.

Meanwhile, specifying the build:
- 94 short block
- 99 head (better flow, no fancy stuff to control)
- M-tuned H-beam rods
- Supertech low comp pistons, max overbore
- Larger IC (BEGI #3)
- Larger turbo if the GT2560R is dead
- V-bands if replacing turbo
- Ditching MSPNP and probably use DTAfast (http://www.dtafast.co.uk/) and with that:
- full sequential
- 36-1 wheel
- 3D boost control
- VSS
Meanwhile, keeping the 949 Twin Ceramic and all that.
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Old 08-11-2011, 07:41 AM   #9
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Sourcing a 99 head (and block if needed). Will my 94 alternator and starter fit or do I need the 99 version of those?
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Old 08-11-2011, 03:46 PM   #10
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Old 08-11-2011, 04:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
.003 is super loose on the mains. Factory spec is .0008-.0013, rods are .0012-.0018. The last motor I did was .0035 mains and rods, and I had crap oil pressure and the bearings didn't look so hot coming out after ~20 hours of runtime. I pushed it down to .0020 on the mains and .0025 on the rods this time, but that's for my motor, which sees nothing but track time at 400whp. For a street motor, I would set the clearances right at the top end of factory spec - we're assembling a street MSM motor right now and it's getting mains in the .0010 range and rods in the .0015 range.
What about a 250-270rwhp track engine? Keep the upper limit factory spec, or how much above?
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Old 08-15-2011, 01:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
Ok, so the word is out: I spun bearing. Don't know why yet. They've asked to open the block to see further. What will that bring me?

Shopping list so far:
- Remove MSPNP and go with DTAfast S60PRO (http://www.dtafast.co.uk/S_60_PRO.htm)
- 99 1.8 NB8C
- JE Pistons 84.0mm 9.0:1
- ATI Damper pulley kit
- Street/Strip Oil Pump Assembly
- Miata Intake Manifold Heatshield gasket Hondata
- Gates Racing Timing Belt 90-05 Miata
- ARP Head Studs
- ARP Main Studs
- 12-tooth OEM-location crank trigger wheels
- Relocate oil filter

Not sure if I keep the GT2560R on BEGI log, or:
- ABSURDflow BEGI/FM Tubular Manifold v2, Stainless, V-Band, EWG
- 3" Downpipe, Stainless, V-Band, EWG, Flex section, Blended
- Garrett Gt2871R w/TiAL .86 V-Band housing
- TiAL MV-S EWG

Might do:
- Dual-Row Race Radiator
- 11.75" Wilwood 4pot Front BBK Upgrade Kit

Comments please?
I want reliability over horsepower. I am plenty fast with the 235rwhp I had. If I can run a 2871 at less than 1 bar to keep IATs down then that is good.
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Old 08-15-2011, 04:17 PM   #13
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Meanwhile, I am marking the splitter outline:
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IIT: Rebuilding for reliability - 2011 edition-296601_253242818030078_100000330860787_943688_7859190_n.jpg  
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Old 08-15-2011, 04:21 PM   #14
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If your power level were good before I would just keep the 2560 and upgrade brakes and radiator which you listed as your two other options.
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Old 08-15-2011, 05:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wittyworks View Post
If your power level were good before I would just keep the 2560 and upgrade brakes and radiator which you listed as your two other options.
Might do that, but what are the chances of debries in the oil and thus turbo with the spun bearing?
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Old 08-16-2011, 12:26 PM   #16
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depends how long it ran like that and how much debris was in tyhe oil

you could see it with the turbo shaft play.
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Old 08-16-2011, 03:10 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shlammed View Post
depends how long it ran like that and how much debris was in tyhe oil
you could see it with the turbo shaft play.
Engine will be removed in the next few days, turned upside down to inspect what happened around the crank bearings. Pretty LARGE bearing flakes were in the oil that was drained...

Will check the turbo too for play.
Need to wash out the oil cooler too...

So far:
- M-Tuned Connecting Rods IN STOCK
- 1999 1.8 block w/intake and all, 55k miles ORDERED
- JE Pistons 84.0mm 9.0:1 ORDERED
- ARP Head and Main Studs ORDERED
- Maruha Racing Oil Pan Baffle ORDERED
- Oil filter relocation kit ORDERED
- EBC Electronic Boost Control Solenoid Kit ORDERED

Last edited by Laur3ns; 08-16-2011 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 08-16-2011, 03:47 PM   #18
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Which relocation kit? I want one too.
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Old 08-16-2011, 03:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oscar View Post
Which relocation kit? I want one too.
Actually, I bought NAB-5155 but will use my own oil cooler (Setrab).
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Old 08-16-2011, 04:11 PM   #20
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Nice. I still have a brand-new cooler, t-stat and adapter plate in a box. Just need to find a decent cheap relocator.
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