Interchangeable parts? BP Motors NA/NB
I've been refreshing a 99 motor and I keep running into small discrepancies. If I look up parts from the dealer or any auto part stores I find them to be different from year to year. A good example would be rings. If i go to rock auto and search for rings for a 94 It lists 4 different options for standard sized rings. If I look up a 99 it shows 1 option. Same goes for oil pumps. When I had the dealer look up some parts like said piston rings they had 2 different prices. The part number for the one set of rings for the 99 matched a set of rings for the 94.
Using common sense I've been able to order the correct parts. I have been screwed enough times by morons grabbing ---- off the shelf and not checking the box to the point where i'm actually quite paranoid and skeptical every time I order or buy anything. So when rebuilding a bottom end is there anything notably different between the BP motors? The only thing i have left to buy is my oil pump and possibly some new arp studs/caps. I have a 2560 and don't really plan on being over the 250hp 200ish tq mark. I don't have the money for forged rods, pistons, boundry oilpump. Anyone have a recommendation on where to get a decent oil pump? It's tempting to buy this Oil Pump but the price scares me and I have never heard of the brand. Also do i need to replace the factory head bolts? I think i read somewhere on here that they are known to break when re tightened. Also do i need to replace the studs/nuts on the rods? Any recommendations as what to use? I don't have much money left for this build so i'm trying to hang on to every last dollar I can without making the build any less reliable. |
Why not use the BP oil pump that came with your motor?
The rings should be compatible, year-to-year, but I would still choose the ones mazda specs for your year motor. The BP remained almost unchanged from 1994-2005. All the heads/bottom ends are compatible. I don't see why any other parts would not be compatible. Remember, you are building a motor. Better to let it sit on the engine stand a little longer while saving for the parts you need, than jump the gun an instal a ticking time bomb. That being said; a 100% stock BP4W could meet you power goals, so why is the motor apart in the first place? |
uh
yeah. what are you doing??? why take apart and rebuild motor with factory parts? so much fail. |
Originally Posted by 2ndGearRubber
(Post 902369)
That being said; a 100% stock BP4W could meet you power goals, so why is the motor apart in the first place?
1) it is from a salvaged Miata (origin unknown). 2) it failed leakdown. The leak down failure i believe to have been from the head but while I had the head off and motor out figured i may as well make sure nothing else was wrong. I suppose I could save up and put some forged internals in it but I figured stock would meet my power goals anyway. I cracked a ring on my 1.6 and I figured it was a perfect time to upgrade. I do feel like I should at least put some china rods in but do I really need to at my power goal? After 250whp aren't there a bunch of issues like oil pump, transmission, traction, not to mention my clutch is only good to about 220-230tq. I have never tracked the car. I still need some other things like a new front sway bar, roll bar, body work, paint, new radiator. I figured by the time i had all that other stuff taken care of i'd be ready for a new bottom end. thoughts? |
Id don't know if you're a man or woman, but us men get addicted to torque after the 1st drive and want more. So yeah, always overbuild for your goals.
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Originally Posted by krissetsfire
(Post 902362)
I've been refreshing a 99 motor and I keep running into small discrepancies. If I look up parts from the dealer or any auto part stores I find them to be different from year to year. A good example would be rings. If i go to rock auto and search for rings for a 94 It lists 4 different options for standard sized rings. If I look up a 99 it shows 1 option. Same goes for oil pumps. When I had the dealer look up some parts like said piston rings they had 2 different prices. The part number for the one set of rings for the 99 matched a set of rings for the 94.
Using common sense I've been able to order the correct parts. I have been screwed enough times by morons grabbing ---- off the shelf and not checking the box to the point where i'm actually quite paranoid and skeptical every time I order or buy anything. So when rebuilding a bottom end is there anything notably different between the BP motors? The only thing i have left to buy is my oil pump and possibly some new arp studs/caps. I have a 2560 and don't really plan on being over the 250hp 200ish tq mark. I don't have the money for forged rods, pistons, boundry oilpump. Anyone have a recommendation on where to get a decent oil pump? It's tempting to buy this Oil Pump but the price scares me and I have never heard of the brand. Also do i need to replace the factory head bolts? I think i read somewhere on here that they are known to break when re tightened. Also do i need to replace the studs/nuts on the rods? Any recommendations as what to use? I don't have much money left for this build so i'm trying to hang on to every last dollar I can without making the build any less reliable. 94: protege LX protege DX (single cam version) escort GT miata 99: miata |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 902531)
Id don't know if you're a man or woman, but us men get addicted to torque after the 1st drive and want more. So yeah, always overbuild for your goals.
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Originally Posted by 2ndGearRubber
(Post 902369)
Why not use the BP oil pump that came with your motor?
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Originally Posted by krissetsfire
(Post 902538)
I was driving a 1.6 so :dunno: men drive miatas? you must be a fag.
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 902550)
Yes, they do. Ask your husband.
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People like you should be exterminated.
You are a bad person. How can you not build your motor while it is opened up? This seriously hurts my feelings. |
would it make you feel better if i put some china rods in?
trust me i want to build it too. i'm having a tough time justifying it though since my power goals are obtainable on stock :-/ |
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 902580)
People like you should be exterminated.
You are a bad person. How can you not build your motor while it is opened up? This seriously hurts my feelings. |
Originally Posted by krissetsfire
(Post 902590)
would it make you feel better if i put some china rods in?
trust me i want to build it too. i'm having a tough time justifying it though since my power goals are obtainable on stock :-/ |
Originally Posted by krissetsfire
(Post 902590)
would it make you feel better if i put some china rods in?
trust me i want to build it too. i'm having a tough time justifying it though since my power goals are obtainable on stock :-/ Your power goals suck. You will lose to a stock CAMARO. You will lose to a V6 mustang. You will lose to a WRX with an exhaust. Losing sucks. Especially after you spent all this time building your motor and some stock motored fool with bolt ons rapes your baby. Trust me. I have gone 250, ~350-400, and 500+++??? hp. Enough is never enough. It is good to at least have the choice of more power for a measely $1000 extra china rods supertech pistons billet oil pump 300-400HP is WAYYYYYYY more fun than 250. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 902600)
250whp/230wtq on a Mustang Dyno or you will be banned. 10lb/hp or you cannot post here.
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 902603)
300-400HP is WAYYYYYYY more fun than 250.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 902600)
250whp/230wtq on a Mustang Dyno or you will be banned. 10lb/hp or you cannot post here.
Super STOCK STOCK STOCK 2012 mustang GT is under 9lb/hp. to the wheels |
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Originally Posted by krissetsfire
(Post 902606)
Is that supposed to be my justification? BUT I CANT LIVE WITHOUT GAY AND CATS!!!
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Lol
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