On the NB's the hardline from the tank comes into the engine bay, then to Pulsation Dampener #1 on the passenger side, then to Pulsation Dampener #2 directly before the fuel rail by the throttle body. Fuel pressure (engine off) after PD #1 was 62.5. FSM wants 53-61 with the engine running. So that looks fine to me.

Monday going to take it to a shop I trust and have them figure it out. Ms Mobius would love for me to not be working on the car all day.

 

Car is at the shop. In for results. I wonder about my crank and cam position sensors.

 

I think when those sensors die the car won't even start.

 

Cam sensor can do all sorts of crazy things without shutting down the car. Post updates. What shop is it at?

 

AR Auto Service. Several of them including the owner have Miatas, and they work on all sorts of race and track-only cars much more expensive than ours. They've been doing my alignments for 5 years.

 

And, I have to say, I'm all for them finding something simple that I/we overlooked. I have no ego, everybody misses something sometime. I'll post whatever the result is. I am baffled at the moment.

 

I keep tuning back in for results.

 

I have a giant ego. I hope they have a giant pain in the *** time finding out what's wrong.

Car starts great, just seems like the injectors are half a second behind the throttle. Seems like theres 9hp to get it to a certain RPM, then it hums along at a set RPM.

 

Eddie knows his stuff. I figured that was where you probably took it.

 

so the car needs tuned?

 

You know, if the Xede does Speed Density control, did you ever check the integrity of the manifold vacuum signal line (based upon what Curly just posted)?

 

It does not do MAP. It operates solely on signals available to it already in the stock harness. I have it set up to modify MAF, timing, and the O2 signal to clamp it to open loop once it gets to moderate boost. You can do other things, like using the TPS to trigger multiple nested maps, or link in the signal from the LC-1 to trigger additional fuel if it goes too lean, but I have not had a need for that.

No MAP is a weakness, and compresses the resolution at idle and low engine rpm.

It does what it does, and that's good enough to get me through emissions, normal driving, and some track days with no CEL's. I will be making the switch to a Reverant-built unit, which will be ready "when it's ready." It will probably be based on the MS4x at that point, and give you a handjob whenever you post a new personal best laptime. It case Reverant reads this, just kidding, quality knows no timelines!

At this point I think the 12inHG of vacuum is a symptom caused by something else being wrong, and not simply a vacuum leak. I believe it has led us astray.

 

Small update. Some vac leaks were found and plugged, but car still does not run right. Next step is to replace the 550cc injectors with stock purple tops and eliminate the xede from the loop. Awaiting delivery of the purple tops to proceed.

 

Latest update is - no update. Did get a quote of the day though : "Everything we check is ok ..."

That made me laugh. On the inside. And it's a bit of a paraphrase, but that's essentially what was said.

I assisted with some more verification that the Xede is ok. As far as I can tell, it is. I run the live data display, I see the MAF signal coming in, I see the adjusted MAF signal going out. Everything is as it should be. So that leaves us with ... ECU. Stock injectors are going in to eliminate the Xede from the loop completely. Once it continues to run poorly, as I suspect it will, then I guess I buy an ECU from Maztoy.

Nothing mechanically wrong has been found with the car.

 

A testament to the fine care this car has received in your hands!!

 

My mechanical skills are feeling better. Cam and crank sensors have tested out ok? I'm interested in xedeless performance, but I've been wrong approx. 30 times in this thread, so don't listen to me.

 

bet it's a tiny electrical gremlin somewhere.

 

Not a tiny electrical gremlin.

It appears the crank pulley slipped, thus the timing was very retarded. The keyway is damaged. May or may not be salvageable. I haven't been down to personally inspect it yet.

130 ft/lbs is what the FSM calls for, and that's what I put on that bolt. I remember standing in the engine bay with all of my weight on FM's crank holder tool while I torqued on it with the torque wrench. I have been advised blue loctite is also a good idea.

Fargh!

 

Before you give up all hope, be advised that the Loktite fix would work just fine on your engine. Doesn't have to be a small-nose 1.6 to do that procedure. And it creates a permanent repair (in fact, very difficult to ever take apart). It will certainly get you by until you are ready for a full rebuild.

I use red on my crank pulley bolt.

 

Congratulations, you've made me doubt my own work on my timing belt change.

Sucks man, sorry to hear about this.

WTB Crank/forged rods/Supertech pistons?