It's time for a clutch.
I'm running a 1.6 NA with light mods (MS3, cat-back); it's mostly a track car.

I have a 1.6 flywheel, a 94 flywheel and an 02 flywheel to choose from. I'm considering the upgrade to the 1.8L size for the new clutch, but I'm concerned of the additional weight. I could mill some weight off of either flywheel-- a budget lightened flywheel may also be in the plan.

I'm torn between a stock disc/ pp with the lightened flywheel or a stock flywheel with an ACT pp/ puck disc. I'd like to keep the deal below the $400 mark.

The benefit of the puck disc is better clamping when shifting at high RPM correct? I ran a stock disc/pp last season and only noticed a slip at the last meet - I figured it was due to the rear main seal leak that showed up recently. So maybe the lighter assembly is better for me?

I figured a spec miata setup would be sufficient for me, but MazdaMotorsport's website shows a dozen different kits.

TL/DR: Clutch suggestions for 1.6L non-turbo track car, please.

 

Use the 1.8 flywheel and an fm level 1 clutch. You'll have no regrets

 

truth

get lwfw if you really want to keep weight down

 

If the lighter 1.6 clutch and flywheel will hold the power, what is the advantage to changing to 1.8 parts?

 

Because the fm level 1 clutch only bolts to a 1.8 flywheel.

 

... And if you don't get an FM clutch, it's going to suck.

 

Hmm, seems like a lot of bad advice in this thread if you ask me.

Yes, the FM level 1 clutch is awesome. They spend a lot of R&D time to get the perfect feel, fitment, price, and grip levels.

That being said, it holds 318 ft/lbs. That's about 3x how much you'll ever make N/A.

I'd suggest lightening the 1.6 flywheel, getting it surfaced, using a new clutch, and OEM throwout and pilot bearing.

For the clutch, I'd suggest a OEM clutch if it's daily driven, or go for a sprung 6-puck if it's really just a track car. That's what I run, it's holding a little under 200 ft/lbs, and it shifts very crisply.

There are plenty of 1.6 options, and a lightened 1.6 flywheel is the lightest out of the options you listed.

However, if you choose to upgrade to a "real" lightened flywheel (aka, not iron), I would then suggest getting a 1.8 unit, as there are even more options at that point. Sounds like you don't want or need to spend that kinda cash.

 

I had a SPEC stage 2 pucked clutch. It was horrible, and as soon as i threw boost at it, it was slipping all over the place.

Changed out for the FM level 1 and have had no regrets. Drives smooth as butter when i'm just cruising around. And i made at least 7 passes in a row down a drag strip and didn't see a single issue from it. Flat foot shifting and 3k launches as well. Does great cold also. I have had absolutely zero issues with any type of chatter whatsoever. Highly recommend.

 

Except for the regret of having a heavy clutch and flywheel rated for far, far, far more torque than he will ever make.

OP, use the 1.6 flywheel and do an ACT HD. Street disc makes it basically stock-replacement but is heavier, 4-puck is lighter but not as pleasant on the street. If you have some extra bucks, pick up a 1.6 liter Fidanza flywheel to match. No reason at all to upgrade to the 1.8 parts.

 

I had a spec stage 2 on about 160tq and it was terrible. It lasted like 100 miles. I put an exedy stage 2 on and the drivability was fantastic. I swapped to 1.8 but it took 30k of constant abuse and was still looking good when I swapped. If you chose to turbo it's supposed to be good for 200ish tq. I'd buy again. Nothing but good stuff to say about it. I was really hard on it.

 

If you can't afford the 949 clutch like me, then run the Spec aluminum PP, 1.6 flywheel, and Spec organic clutch. It's not the best, but it gets me by.

 

exedy stage I is fine.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I'm taking a look at the Fidanza (alum) flywheels and they're about 8lbs - but also about $350 - not in the budget for this particular motor.

Any downside to running an off-brand chro-mo flywheel? They look to be lighter (9.5#) than I could machine the stock flywheel to... at about $200.

 

I'm not keen on spinning an off-brand anything to ~7000rpm when the worst-case failure mode involves losing your feet.

 

This. ACT HDSS
They require clutch to flywheel bolts with a different pitch and that's not a bid deal to find before you take it apart.

I still have feet. YMMV.

 

I "downgraded" my stock 1.8 clutch/fw to a stock 1.6 clutch/fw on my street car. The 1.6 setup is a bit lighter but mostly the weight is closer to the center so there's less angular momentum. Holds the power from a n/a 1.8 just fine. Go with a 1.6 ACT and you will be happy. That's what I have on my SM and it's just great once you get used to it.

 

I ran a 1.6 fly behind my 1.8 for a long time, then "upgraded" to a Fuji fly and spec organic.
That crappy Spec clutch Lasted less than a year.
I went back to the OEM value clutch and its been holding great for 2 years +.
I have dozens of OEM value clutches out there and no complaints. (non-boosted)
Infact had breakfast with a customer this morn, that I installed his back in '07 in his AutoX/track car.
Flogged most weekends for atleast 5 seasons.

I just sent 10 heavyass 1.8 flywheels to the scrapper.

 

Hope you got good money out of them.

I wouldn't be surprised if they sold well here for all the 1.6 guys upgrading their clutch. I'd be confident I'd sell one here for $50. Although maybe you got $250 from the scrapper, I dunno. Cause shipping would eat half that cost.

 

Savington couldn't give one away for $20 just a bit ago.

 

Stick with 1.6.

I like the ACT XTSS setup on a 1.6 fidanza, myself.

Strong engagement just feels good, even when N/A, and the lower inertia is wonderful. Really makes things feel more responsive.

Next time, 949 single clutch setup.