Low startup oil pressure
#1
Low startup oil pressure
I installed a Mocal sandwich plate and a Setrab oil cooler kit from fab9 and ever since then, it takes a second or two to get oil pressure after starting it up. I’ve also gone with the K&N oil filter which is supposed to have some kind of flange preventing the oil from draining completely at standstill. Are the 1-2 seconds OK and something to expect or am I doing something wrong?
#2
No one?
I should probably add, it's a BP-4W out of an -99. Totally stock internals and has ran about 100.000k miles. The oil is 80% Aral Supertronic 0w40 PAO oil and 20% Castrol TWS 10w60. The engine makes a clattering noise the first second or so at startup before oil pressure is right, just as if it had hydraulic lifters, but since it's a BP-4W, it's solid lifters, so that's why I'm asking. After the oil pressure is right, the engine runs great. Nice and quiet, has good power and compares well with other BP-4W:s.
I should probably add, it's a BP-4W out of an -99. Totally stock internals and has ran about 100.000k miles. The oil is 80% Aral Supertronic 0w40 PAO oil and 20% Castrol TWS 10w60. The engine makes a clattering noise the first second or so at startup before oil pressure is right, just as if it had hydraulic lifters, but since it's a BP-4W, it's solid lifters, so that's why I'm asking. After the oil pressure is right, the engine runs great. Nice and quiet, has good power and compares well with other BP-4W:s.
#3
I'm only a DIYer, but if something isn't 'wrong', it still is a worry and should be tracked down. What was done EXACTLY between when there was no rattle, and when the rattle started? Look CLOSELY at EVERTHING that was done in that time. Make sure all fittings are plumbed the way they are supposed to. You wouldn't be the first to cross oil lines, etc. It seems to me that if the filter has some sort of one-way valve, the oil is entering backwards, pressure builds up eventually and overpowers the valve, but in the meantime there is low oil pressure until that happens. Just a guess though.
#4
I'm only a DIYer, but if something isn't 'wrong', it still is a worry and should be tracked down. What was done EXACTLY between when there was no rattle, and when the rattle started? Look CLOSELY at EVERTHING that was done in that time. Make sure all fittings are plumbed the way they are supposed to. You wouldn't be the first to cross oil lines, etc. It seems to me that if the filter has some sort of one-way valve, the oil is entering backwards, pressure builds up eventually and overpowers the valve, but in the meantime there is low oil pressure until that happens. Just a guess though.
I do have a theory, but I might be completely off here. If the engine was turned off when in operating temp and then cold starts, the temperature difference might have gotten something (the chims or something?) somewhat stuck which loosens up and adjusts after a second or two and the oil pressure usually takes a second or two to get up to decent levels even as standard?
#6
Let me get this straight - this ticking has gone on for a year?! And you have been tracking it over that time? Maybe you should just learn to live with it.
I'm not familiar with those oils, are they standard automotive oils? Playing with different oils/oil weights is the only other suggestion I can make.
I'm not familiar with those oils, are they standard automotive oils? Playing with different oils/oil weights is the only other suggestion I can make.
#7
Let me get this straight - this ticking has gone on for a year?! And you have been tracking it over that time? Maybe you should just learn to live with it.
I'm not familiar with those oils, are they standard automotive oils? Playing with different oils/oil weights is the only other suggestion I can make.
I'm not familiar with those oils, are they standard automotive oils? Playing with different oils/oil weights is the only other suggestion I can make.
Those oils are really good fully synthetic european automotive oils. I've used many different oils in the past (Mobile1, Amsoil, Total, Redline, etc. 0w30-10w60 and many in between) and these are according to my humble opinion pretty much what the BP needs when tracked in our climate (Sweden) with oil cooler, reroute and proper aluminium cooler. Therefore, I think the oil is fine, but as I'm not an experienced mechanic, I don't really understand why the oil will drain more with the oilcooler connected than without if everything is sealed properly and if it's an actual issue that should be fixed.
#10
I also found out that two of the primaries of my header (Racing Beat 4-1) has cracks in the weld close to the engine. I'm thinking that it's possible that that also has something to do with it even though it seems far fetched. I removed it and will get it welded during coming weekend and see if that helps this. Pretty sure it will help the ticking the first few minutes of driving anyway.
#11
As an experiment, if you have enough hose length, swap the cooler lines over so it enters from the bottom and exits the top. If your filter has an anti drain back valve, that will stop the cooler from empting from the bottom and only whats in the return line from the top will gravity drain. Cooler should stay full this way.
#12
As an experiment, if you have enough hose length, swap the cooler lines over so it enters from the bottom and exits the top. If your filter has an anti drain back valve, that will stop the cooler from empting from the bottom and only whats in the return line from the top will gravity drain. Cooler should stay full this way.
Thanks!
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