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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1504565)
I would take it to a different machine shop and explain your concerns and get a professional opinion. I would also have them measure everything to check the other shop's work even though it will cost money. If they find that the damage is beyond the scope of usable they could easily resleeve that one cylinder and make it better than new. Sleeves are stronger and have a more consistent wall thickness than the cast block originally comes with.
I would not deal with the original machine shop except to relay the findings of the second shop and ask for compensation for some of the rework. You will likely get nothing or nearly nothing out of them because they've already demonstrated their character. Good machine shops in our area are a bit rare. I am on my 3rd or 4th local ones over the past 8 years. |
Every machine shop is going to make mistakes. It's how they deal with the mistakes when they happen that separates the good shops from the bad. I've been using the same shop for 6 years, and they've made errors, and I still use them because they handle their errors correctly.
The OP's shop did not handle this error correctly. |
Andrew, I'm looking to get a block prepped in the next few week. Care to share who your local recommendation is ?
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Head gasket sealing aside, I'd also be concerned about potential hot spots.
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Took the block to the shop this morning and they said it's a non issue since the imperfection is above the top ring and I should run the block anyways. They offered to redo the work if I provided a new block and they kept this block to sell. I then took the block to another shop right down the road for their opinion and he said it should be fine to run. This was just him eyeballing it, no measurements taken or anything like that. Needless to say I wont be returning to the first shop and will check everything that was done there. I'm currently contemplating on getting a new block and having it done elsewhere or sleeving this one.
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Did you pay the shop with a credit card? If so, I'd be on the phone to the bank contesting those charges...
--Ian |
If it wasnt an issue then why did they try to hide it by sanding the area in the first place? Just sounds shady and I agree with everyone that I would not run it like that. Im kinda OCD and that would bother the #%$#%* outta me.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1504565)
I would take it to a different machine shop and explain your concerns and get a professional opinion. I would also have them measure everything to check the other shop's work even though it will cost money. If they find that the damage is beyond the scope of usable they could easily resleeve that one cylinder and make it better than new. Sleeves are stronger and have a more consistent wall thickness than the cast block originally comes with.
I would not deal with the original machine shop except to relay the findings of the second shop and ask for compensation for some of the rework. You will likely get nothing or nearly nothing out of them because they've already demonstrated their character. |
Wouldn't it be cheaper to just get a new block? I threw away an NA bare block and head that needed a rebuild because no one wanted it at all...
I'm sure you can start fresh instead of trying to salvage something that's going to annoy you every time you look at it. |
Many racing engines have all bores sleeved for strength, durability, and consistency. Talk to a machinist who does a lot of higher level racing engines.
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Also,
Off the top of your head, can you think of any aluminum block engines which produce pretty much all of the torque & HP, with little to no modification to the bottom end? I can. |
Originally Posted by Gee Emm
(Post 1504738)
I am not sure where it comes from, but I have in my head a warning sign 'don't sleeve a block for turbo and/or race engine'. So in fact sleeving is ok for a high boost or high revving engine? Is this a regular practice over there?
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I def would not run that. Im sure when you assemble it, you'll see that the rings don't touch it. But he goofed up and owes you a block.
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 1504797)
Also, 100% of aluminum blocks are sleeved from the factory.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alusil |
Among the trick billet AL blocks in my office currently, one is sleeved, one is Nikasil. :dunno:
Sleeves make more sense to me cause you can change them when something bad happens, but as I understand it the real high end blocks are typically some sort of sprayed on liner. This I learned today. |
Nikisil>sleeves.
A piece of me always dies inside when a retard sleeves a dirtbike cylinder(99% of dirt bikes have had nikisil since the mid 90s). Tim I'm not sure why you think you cant fixed a sprayed cylinder, but thats not true. If the plating is bad, you replate, if the damage is severe, you weld up the low spots, bore and replate. https://www.millennium-tech.net/serviceInfo.php?id=1 |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1504905)
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I feel bad for you Herbst. The lack of quality machine shops has kept me from ever seriously considering a built motor. It seems these kinds of bad experiences happen way too often.
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Originally Posted by freedomgli
(Post 1504938)
I feel bad for you Herbst. The lack of quality machine shops has kept me from ever seriously considering a built motor. It seems these kinds of bad experiences happen way too often.
I GOT 99 PROBLEMS BUT MY BORE AIN'T ONE |
Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1504940)
IF YOU HAVIN' SHORTBLOCK PROBLEMS I FEEL BAD FOR YOU SON
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