I'm running a ser up very close to what "90 Turbo" is running and I'm pushing 11psi. I have been running this set up for a few years and have pulled off 4 TTOD's at local autocroses this year without engine failure. I would love to go to a standalone though it's totally foreign to me and reading the info on the forum reveals a totally new langauge I Can't fully decifer. I believe others are likely in the same position and therefore have not crossed over from the dark side!

 

It's a steep learning curve. Definitely research it ahead of time, but I knew practically nothing and understood even less. I week after hooking up the MS and I knew a huge amount, and was very comfortable tuning it. Hard to learn anything just by reading.

 

I'm still on bandaids and have been running 11psi on a 2854 with 305's for the whole summer.

 

Thanks for all the helpful post.
I will be buying a megasquirt before I put another penny into the band aids but since they are what came with the car and I cant afford the 600 dollar+ dyno time just yet I want to get my toy running as well as possible.

Can anyone id the black box in this pic for me. I believe it to be a o2 clamp but am not sure of its make or model.

 

i was running 19psi on my b6t motor(only 7.9:1 compression B6) using a 14b eclipse turbo without the benefit of band aids... i had a wide band, a few stock fpr's with different ratings, 3 or 4 sets of different injectors, and a screwdriver to adjust my vaf spring and air bypass... ran great...for about 3 months then it blew... when i swapped to a BP i decided to go MS. if i knew how easy MS was when i was still 1.6 i probably would still have it in there.

 

I was just thinking that if you can't afford a $450 MS then you probably shouldn't be turning up the boost to try to find the limits, but that's probably just the logic talking.

 

I agree, a turbo miata can be more money than one bargains for if they push limits.

 

I believe that's an early olderguy o2 clamp. He's a member here, search for him with "o2 clamp" in the title and you should find a few threads with details on how to tune that particular device.

BTW: $600 and dyno time? Shouldn't need dyno time with MS. It's helpful, but not necessary. And a few members here will build you one for rock bottom prices, so think of it more like $400. And you can get $200-300 for your band aids, so think of MS as a $200 upgrade. I did, made it a lot easier to justify in my head

 

my car has never seen a dyno tune. i am using an afr table made by brain and just let the ve analyze tune the fuel tables. my afrs hit all my targets and ive been running 10psi

 

400 dollars. Wow I did not know it could be that cheap. Would that be the ms1,2 or 3. I will think about that.

 

ms1, kit is $147, and you need about $100 of misc. parts. Finding someone to build it for you for $150 isn't too hard. Try Wayne_Curr, dunno if he has the time or if he's charging more currently.

 

I dont have enough time to change my oil let alone build stuff for people :(

 

Back to the mines slave! You can sleep when you die!

Try Jeff.

 

+1 on you don't really need to dyno with MS.

Here's my recommended order:
1. Install MS with a wideband and TPS. Get rid of the AFM at the same time.
2. Unless you have something else you know is good, start with the MSPNP time and fuel maps. They're safe.
3. Start it and idle it. You'll learn a heck of a lot just doing this.
4. As you drive, log data and use MegaLog to tune your fuel. You can really nail fuel doing this -- much better than spending dyno time on it. There is also an autotune feature if you pony up for TunerStudio.
5. By the time you've done all the above, you'll be pretty expert on the MS, and will have a well sorted, safe car. Now, if desired, is when you go to the dyno and work on optimizing spark for that last bit of power.

This will save you dyno money and will get you a really great tune and a heck of an education on engine management.

BTW, I still haven't been to the dyno. I'm nearly 10K miles in too. But, trying to get there this month. Want that extra little bit out of my spark map.

 

Thank you. I've been trying to figure that out for a while, and when I asked I couldn't tell which answerers where sarcastic, and who was trying to help. I suppose that bandaids do need dyno time? Or can a person tune them at home? (I've read the stickies time and time again)

 

With MS, you log your engine data and make intelligent adjustments that can be verified and reviewed.

With bandaids, you make mechanical adjustments and hope for the best. So long as you have a wideband and boost gauge, you can sort of keep an eye on things, but it is a far cry from the datalogging capability that MS gives you. Worst case, you blow something up.

 

Purchased a used brain built ms.
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-parts-sale-trade-5/ms1-v3-0-90-93-parallel-60905/

Wish me luck.
I am told I dont need the tps because the stock ecu does fine with the stock one.

What are the advantages to getting rid of the afm

 

The AFM is your main intake restriction. DUMP IT!!

I recommend a TPS. It allows you to take advantage of TPS-based accel enrichment (usually more stable than MAP-based), helps with idle trigger points, helps with EBC, etc., etc. You don't need it right away -- this can be a growth item. You've got plenty to learn right now.

 

Yeah, I functioned fine without TPS, although I did upgrade. Couldn't tell a huge difference, but I'm probably not using it to the full extent. Easily switched with a simple setting, map based vs. TPS based.

Definitely ditch the AFM, if only for a cleaner look. What's the AIT cost brand new, $10? Worth it.

 

gm iat is 15 iirc. maybe less. definitely worth it ditching that stock POS afm: gets rid of a restriction, more engine bay space, unrestricted intake routing/placement, etc.

congrats on being smart and upgrading, there is hope for you yet