Originally Posted by Carloverx
(Post 1377916)
New Jersey (08833)
Your high DC% is caused by a maxed-out fuel pump. Upgrade the pump. |
MSQ is set to independent sensor for baro. OP, do you have an independent baro sensor inside your case?
|
Originally Posted by afm
(Post 1377935)
MSQ is set to independent sensor for baro. OP, do you have an independent baro sensor inside your case?
|
Interestingly the baro corr is set to '0' across the board, yet we still get the 109.4%
|
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by afm
(Post 1377935)
MSQ is set to independent sensor for baro. OP, do you have an independent baro sensor inside your case?
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1377940)
OP does not, since the log does not budge from 109% (onboard baro cars dance a tiny bit). OP, there's your problem.
Adjusting the "Barometric Correction" setting under "General Settings" from "Two Independent Sensors" to "Initial MAP Reading", has resulting in the following:
Thanks again for everyone's help!! I have no idea why I changed my baro correction in the first place, but problem solved. I appreciate it! :) Screen capture below and updated log attached. Attachment 182526 |
Apologies for thread stealing. I'm having issues with my low boost Rotrex setup, and I've been reading through any troubleshooting thread I can find.
My Barometric Correction is set to "None". Should I change it? If I change it to Initial MAP reading, do I need to change any other values. Thanks, |
Originally Posted by poormxdad
(Post 1378903)
Apologies for thread stealing. I'm having issues with my low boost Rotrex setup, and I've been reading through any troubleshooting thread I can find.
My Barometric Correction is set to "None". Should I change it? If I change it to Initial MAP reading, do I need to change any other values. Thanks, |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1379094)
If you live at sea level, you should be able to turn it on and not change anything. If you live at altitude (say above ~1000ft) you may need to adjust your VE table by a few percent.
|
Originally Posted by stefanst
(Post 1377925)
I have FF640s as well and get a PW of 12.5ms and AFR of 12.3 at 175kpa, which is my max.
You get 13.1ms and 11.3 AFR at 175kpa. So that's pretty damn good agreement. Now at 210kpa I would roughly expect 210/175 * 13.1 ms = 15.7ms , just extrapolating from the lower value. Add 10-20% for reduced flow caused by lower pressure differential and we'd expect 17.3ms to 18.9ms. You're at 18.7ms and your AFR is up. Your fuel system is maxed out. Convert to return-style system and upgrade pump. My plan is to install a 190LPH-HP Walbro. Since I'm running a MegaSquirt (DIYPNP), I would NOT need to convert to a return-style style system and would NOT need to add an AFPR, correct? |
Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1379151)
Won't that depend upon what correction curve you have dialed in?
|
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1379195)
Assuming there's no barometric correction, the correction should be 100.0%, or sea-level. For example, OP's logs showed a 9% fuel add at 80kpa of correction, which is like 6600ft of altitude. Small altitude changes, say anything under 1000ft, would result in a pretty small global change, enough that the fueling would probably still be within the error of MAT corrections. Thus, "should need no changes".
So, while I don't fully understand the settings, your advice seems straightforward, and OP can easily determine if the correction goes to 100% after he turns off the correction. |
My advice was for poormx, who said he has no baro correction right now. If you tune at sea level with no correction and then add correction, there should be no change.
Carloverx tuned at sea level with a 109% correction and needs to completely retune his car. |
Originally Posted by Carloverx
(Post 1379178)
One final yes/no question :)
My plan is to install a 190LPH-HP Walbro. Since I'm running a MegaSquirt (DIYPNP), I would NOT need to convert to a return-style style system and would NOT need to add an AFPR, correct? You may need to retune areas of the map. And definitely up top. |
I tuned a few NB with flow force 640cc, 2005 sport NB, turbo with MS.
When running 15psi the injectors are at 70%~ This is just some reference input for you, about the different MAP reading, well, when all is right they read the same... My NA turbo 460cc running 90%+ @ 15psi. |
Boost pressure != Fuel usage or power. What turbo? 15 psi on a GT42 is like 600+HP.
|
Dynapack says 260hp
T25 turbo on the 640cc I run a small td04h-13c dynapck says 250hp |
260whp at 70%DC is right where a 640cc injector should be.
|
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1384126)
260whp at 70%DC is right where a 640cc injector should be.
While I have more work to do, and I will possibly end up making a new thread, I feel like asking this here isn't too far off base: Any guesses why a SEEMINGLY well running, newly built NB, running 65% DC (on FF 650cc's) at 15PSI, 93 oct, with a off brand 2871R would "only" be making ~200whp on a Virtual Dyno? I know there could be a million reasons, but I SUSPECT my timing/boost is too mild 8.5:1 comp pistons. And while I do plan to continue to work on both (with the help of my det cans/ det muffs), it's obviously not something I want to be guessing at. Note, my combo DOES have some very low end parts:
Log attached in case anyone's interested in some go ol' internet diagnostics/speculation before i start messing with timing and boost again this weekend haha. p.s. boost leak tests up to the throttle body hold boost rock solid. (Edited post for injector size from 640 to 650) |
If you asked that question without putting a new fuel pump in your car, I'm going to reach through the Internet and choke you out.
|
lol oh dis gun be guud
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:13 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands