Luckily for me, I purchased and installed a "190LHP-HP" right after our initial discussion on maxing out the 650's! :)

The log says 17.0-17.6 volts for battery voltage. Did you build the regulator circuit right?

Also, do you have an IAT sensor?

1. I did not build the regulator circuit. I purchased the DIYPNP second hand; the seller claimed it came from this group buy: 99-00, 01-05 and MSM Megasquirt MS2 DIYPNP "Enhanced" group buy I have no reason to believe otherwise and if true, makes any build errors very unlikely.

2. I purchased and installed DIYAUTOTUNE's DIYPNP IAT Sensor Kit (GM sensor)

stock fuel pump

Then it's likely a combination of things. Unknown China turbo may not be doing what it's supposed to. Unknown log manifold isn't helping you, nor is the unknown intercooler (high pressure drop?), nor is the 2.5" exhaust, nor is the off-brand muffler. You are expecting optimized-setup numbers from a setup that is far from optimized.

Thanks for the info!
I'm actually 100% ok with the combination not yielding "optimized-setup numbers." I'm not ok with it not yielding "numbers optimized for this setup." As long as there isn't something actually malfunctioning or way off, I'm happy. (on a side note, the car actually feels surprisingly fast for 200whp).
My goal for the car was 270whp, and I'll likely snag a Enthuza 2.5" muffler next. and start keeping an eye out for a name brand exhaust manifold.

The car also really needs is some dyno time in the hands of competent MS/Miata tuner.

Certainly it's true that cheap, poorly flowing parts will impact the power that a turbo engine makes, but note that they do so by hurting air flow. This lowers VE, and with a properly-tuned wideband & fuel map, this means you're also burning less fuel. So that doesn't explain why you're using 260 rwhp worth of fuel to generate 200 rwhp unless the car is running pig rich.

Two thoughts from there:

1) Virtual Dyno is a good idea in theory, but it is very sensitive to numbers that you can't easily measure to a good level of accuracy, things like actual car weight, rolling friction, air drag, slope of road, etc. If you're extremely careful to control these then you can maybe use it to compare two setups, but I really don't trust it to generate numbers that can be compared to a DynoJet.

2) If your timing map is off, then that *will* substantially hurt power without burning less fuel.

IMHO, the only way to tune the timing is on a real dyno. So... take it to a real dyno and see what it says.

--Ian

My Chinese 2870 I used to have did 200whp on a real dyno at 9-10psi. That was with the FM log manifold, 3in downpipe, 3in exhaust, no cat, golf ball approved muffler, 8.4 pistons. Since manifold pressure is a measurement of restriction of flow in the system I'd say your measurement is somewhat close to what I'd expect with exhaust restrictions and timing not optimized (not that mine was optimal). It's close enough to be believed.

Just adding to what is an already good thread.
DW200 fuel pump installed in a friend's car. It replaced the stock nb2 fuel pump.
Previously the duty cycle maxed out at 6000 rpm. Now 72-74% at redline and 16 psi, 98 ron fuel.
Rods only build with a Volvo 15G (Thing is a street beast).
Not dyno'ed yet with the new engine but we think 280-290 whp.

That turbo, iirc, tops out at 240-250 at full tilt. Doubt you're touching 300, but I'm sure it's fun either way.