It is machined for t-stat. Just on the other side.

So change the second 3/8 NPT to a 1/8 NPT?
Stephanie

What if a kia neck is not used and the stock one is? It still needs an upper radiator hose connection then. We can make individual housings, but I still need to do a kit as well.
Stephanie

That piece, a flat block off plate that I could drill and thread myself for the 1.6 sensor if needed and the pipe for the cold side and it's a damn fine kit I think.

OK. Here's the dumb ass question of this thread.

Can this be done with the motor still in the car?

Yeah, it ain't easy and you will shed some blood but it can be done. Will require removal of the coil pack and probably the CAS on 1.8 cars.
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the cas no. removing the coil pack definately makes it MUCH easier to do

Coilpack is already bye bye with Sav's Cops on my car so that's good to know.

I'm not a big guy but I've got fat stubby hands and popeye forearms that don't work so well around the Miata engine bay. I'm used to bleeding. My hands looked like I'd been wrestling a bobcat after installing my HD HC bar last week. I'm not all that careful around sharp objects and edges.

Upon looking at it further, I think we are going to move the 2nd 3/8 NPT bung next to the other one. If we leave it where it is, it might interfere with a plug on the back of the engine. And the thermostat groove does need to be moved to the other side.
Stephanie

No.

Whether a person uses a stock 1.6L neck, a Kia neck, or a Protege neck, they all work pretty much the same. It covers the back of the spacer and provides a large outlet for the water going out to the radiator. Under no circumstances is it desirable for water to exit the spacer and go direct to the radiator, as that would be pre-thermostat.

Have another look at the pictures that Braineack posted in message #175. That's the stock 1.6L water neck, with the fitting where the thermoswitch would be cut down and plugged. The large outlet on the side is what will feed the radiator. The only difference between that piece and the Sephia / Protege unit is that the latter do not have the sensor fitting, thus they require less labor as you don't have to bother plugging up a hole.


Why is the M12x1.5 fitting in the form of a threaded bung which is welded on?

I think I see where Stephanie is unsure...

The spacer is used to output water to the heater core and then the front 1.6 neck is used to sent water to the rad with the T-stat between the neck and the spacer.

This is why the groove must be on the firewall side when the spacer is on the head.

That is just what the machinist put on there. It can be changed.
Stephanie

that could actually be good to leave it there depending on placement so temp sensors dont hit the t-stat in there.

Hmmm. I'm sure it probably raises the cost, but on the other hand, the stock CLT sensor, having a non-tapered thread, will probably benefit from having a flat surface to mate to. I'm sure we can trim it down as necessary to ensure that the sensor element is not shrouded.

I'm really liking this design.

IMO that is a must. The stock CLT, on the NB anyway, is a face seal like a banjo fitting, not a thread seal like a NPT.

Great thread BTW! Joe Perez for President.

I am in the middle of a spacerless reroute and would post up some picts, but am not since it is only partially relevant to this discussion; I do not want to muddy the waters. The spacerless reroute would be near impossible without the head out of the car IMO since one has to drill and tap a 3/8" NPT hole into the head at the back.

FWIW I am using the stock '99 thermostat cover on the rear (pointing straight up at 12 o-clock) and routing the radiator return under the intake manifold. The heater core feed is pre-thermostat as I think it should be. I am also sending the heater core out into the mixing manifold a-la the stock configuration.

OK guys I have the BEGi prototype spacer in my hands and I am ordering the thermostat cover from the Kia dealer Monday should have it Tuesday.

I also was able to get hte part numbers for the Kia Thermostat housing cover
Part #
0K24715172A
My dealer wants $18.19 for it plus $2 to over night it

The Mazda part is
B6BF15172 and they are much more proud of that parts and priced it at 33.73

That's why i had suggested the bung in the first place.


http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...acer%20001.JPG


http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...acer%20002.JPG


http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...acer%20003.JPG

non-Tommy/Finishline Rosenthal Nissan Mazda has it for 18 something. plus they are kinda cool and send their driver to my work heh

Rosenthal Nissan-Mazda Parts and Accessories

ok I'm done. Looks like the OEM upper hose will work perfectly from the outlet to the 16" hardline, so I should just need to only have to source some odd S-bend.

that 3/8-18 NPT was a bitch to tap:

http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...acer%20004.JPG

http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...acer%20005.JPG

Did you use cutting fluid? Taping stuff is easy if you cut square and use cutting fluid and proper technique. :)

I used a 9/16 (0.5625") dill bit, not a 37/64 (0.578").

I think the main issue was it was still cutting new threads as it started tapering out the cut ones. No biggie, it's done and ready to rock & roll.