This is our standard piece for the thermostat housing. It is aluminum and can be tapped anywhere for anything.

http://www.bellengineering.net/image...e/P1303144.JPG

For example, we did this one with a threaded bung.

Thanks hustler. I can follow your pic and do the same thing here. :)

No way a local machinist is charging $60 for that! ;)

Does anyone know what size threads are on the rear temp sensor on a '95? The sensor that goes into the cover that is.

m12 x 1.5

Thanks. The bung in the spacer Stephanie has pictured above is 1/8" NPT, didn't think that would work.

Stephanie,

How about a spacer like the one talked about in this thread? It ould have a port for the heater and the temp sensor plus a grove for the thermostat. We would cap it with the standard thermostat housing from the front of the motor. then we would just need a tee added to the pipe going ot the radiator for the heater to return too?

How must would something like that cost?

Also guys why not add a vavle to cut off the heater return when we are on the track?

^ I agree with this.

I would buy one exactly as you described. Then all one would have to do is run the hose back to the rad and remove the front neck.

I agree, I've suggested that a spacer with a m12x1.5 bung and small pipe for the heater core, machined to accept a thermostat would sell well.

I'll post pic of how I drilled (by drilled I mean will be this weekend) your spacer, steph.

We've been talking about something along these lines for a while, in an automatic version. The oil thermostat idea seemed promising, but an inquiry to Mocal suggested that the unit would not perform well with a fluid as thin as water.

Adding a simple 90° ball valve would be quite easy, and require nothing special on the part of the spacer itself. Just plumb it in series with the feed into the heater core. I'd think you'd not want to ever close it all the way, as this would deprive the block of flow when the thermostat is closed. Even in a race environment, there are going to be times (hopefully) when the thermostat is not wide open, and you don't want to stagnate the coolant during these periods.

That's the real catch-22 here; balancing the desire to not return hot coolant into the mixing manifold vs. the practical requirement of maintaining circulation when the thermostat is closed.

If you really wanted to get fancy, you could locate an electronic solenoid valve (similar to those used in zoned lawn sprinkler control) to shut off the flow of coolant to the heater core when the temperature is above some limit (say, 210°, for instance) and then re-open it when the temperature falls.

For the rest of us, I'm liking the spacer with thermostat & outlet, and a restrictive orifice feeding the heater. From a flow standpoint, that's just about a perfect 323 clone.

joe, do you have a link to a restrictive flow device I can fit in my heater hose with ease?

323gtx design is the original
 

The 323gtx design is the "factory" design. When MAZDA put this engine in the MIATA they did the front thermostat Reroute to save some money. The goal of all these racer and aftermarket Reroutes is to restore the original factory design.

Would we need to source a 1.6 neck or re-use our 1.8 necks for these offered re-routes?

Please correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't there a MAZDA thermostat holder with the outlet at an appropriate angle that will fit on the original thermostat location on the back of the head? I think that it is one from a Protege or 323.

that 1.6L waterneck will point directly left or right of the engine when placed on the back of the spacer.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...273-cover-.jpg

Hustler,

Have a look in the racing section of your local homedept or Loews they have lots of ball valves to choose from and hose barbs for installing them.

ball valves? how about a washer in front of the copper inlet tube....

That or a Kia Sephia water neck. With that one there's no hole to worry about plugging.

Best pic I have.

Attachment 207859
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Since I am in TX I really would like to take the heater out of the system on the track. I really do not think the thermostat will close while running laps under boost when it is 100 plus on the track.

If I am out of line and cutting flow through the heater will fuck something up let me know, but would I still have water bypassing the thermostat for the Oil heater and turbo cooling lines?

that won't work on a 99-head if you want to put the CLT sensor in the factory plug. FYI, for future rerouters.

get a real oil cooler an trash the factory one.