I didnt take a picture of the top of the block before instilling it, but i can tell you it was SUPER smooth and shiny. The gasket i used was felpro pt#9691 PT

BIG UPDATED, BAD NEWS! The other day i looked into the tail pipe, swiped my finger and had it coated with oil. I then took off the headers and started the motor from the front and noticed that out of the exhaust side it gushing out oil, and as i was reving it i also noticed oil was inside the intake side. I turned it off swiped the intake and found it coated with oil on the inside. From my limited knowlege and from what google told me there is something going on with the valves. Would i need to replace the entire cylinder head or is this something my local machine shop SHOULD have noticed and fixed or at the least told me about.

An after thought, when i took off the cylinder head from the block i noticed that it had a tiny steel or tin cylinder in it. Well i counted two but i wanted to know how many should a 1.6 have.

sounds like head alignment dowels if that is the case 2 of them

Did you have the valve stem seals changed at the machine shop? if not then the cleaning may have killed the seals and now need replaced.

the other thing that can cause it is flubbing the R&R of the guides themself

Yes i did give them the stem seals, it was included in my felpro hg set. Flubbing of the R&R im sorry what? Should i call robin williams... but really what action should i take? I dont wanna have to spend another $300.

Flubbing = Fvcked up the install

R&R= Remove & Replace

Have you checked the PCV sytem? It is designed to suck the oil vapors from the crank case and then burnt in the intake charge.

But you say it is in the intake and exhaust runners, so that also points to the oil rings.

Has this engine been over heated? If so thne you may have lost the tention in the oil rings, but not the compression rings.

I had this issue on a Mazda FS engine in a 626, leak down was good and so was the compression test. The engine was pulled and come to find the oil rings had got stuck in the pistons and would not move. Put new rings and bearings in and solved the smoking issue.

I am reaching for things at this point, but I would pull the cams and lifter buckets and make sure the valve stem seals had been changed and installed. The machinist may have rushed and just did not install them or distorted or tore them up installing them.

My engine did the same thing, and it was the oil rings. So I got new rings, did a quick scuff job on the cylinders and called it good. One other thing, I noticed the Miata piston doesnt have holes in the oil ring groove. Every engine I have ever built has holes. My 318 has them, our race car engines have them, so I figured what the hell. So I drilled 3 small holes on each side of the piston in the oil ring groove. No problems yet ~20k miles on it. Also, when you take the intake off, turn it over and see if it is full of oil. Mine was full, all the oil sat in the intake runners where they drop down a bit.

I thought i changed the oil rings during the rebuild but maybe i F**ked up the install. Also since i was at my local junk yard i picked up a injector harness since the one i had was messed up. What it was is injector 4 was wired to injector 3.

Well after i switched the harness it stopped the smoking. Now since i could now look at that side of the motor without going blind with the smog, i noticed that the oil is coming out of cylinder 4's exhaust outlet only so thats probably the one i should check.

Uber noob question oil rings = piston rings

BTW Thank you guys for all your help, im truly thankful for all the great advice and suggestion yall have given me . Ive been on my own since the tear down (long story short my redneck friend quit the job we had together and i never had his number) so its really just been me and the good old haynes manual lol. But like my sister always says ether i so single minded/hard headed that its scary or my determination is a thing of legend. I like to think im a legend lmao.

Oil ring is the bottom ring from the piston rings.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1338338004

I see hmm i dont remember there being a up side marks or instructions on what side the rings should be facing. I do remember reading that the openings on the rings should always be facing the opposite of each other on the pistons. But thats about as in-depth as haynes got about ring placement. Should there be anything else i should know about how this should be done correctly. On the oil rings i do remember only overlapping them on the first, what should i call it groove. Should i "tighten" them as much as possible?

You should get a torque wrench. Autozone allows renting.

Why rent one that you do not know if it has been kept properly?

I was taught if you need it more than twice, you should have one of your own.

I have been thu several torque wrenches, craftsman, Mac, Matco

This is the one I use now, Brownline, it is a didgital read that beeps when you hit your setting.

http://brownlinemetalworks.com/index.php

For $150 + shipping it puts it in the price range of a Craftsman clicker style, and $100s below what a Snap-on, Mac ect Digital

Dollar for doller it is hard to beat. Also it runs on common AA batteries

I have had mine since just after thanksgiving, 6 engine builds and IDK how may rods have been toqued with it.. No issues

I own a auto craft clicking torque wrench.

Okay i pulled the motor, opened the block, pulled the pistons one at a time, and what i found was there ARE markings on the piston rings and i had most of them upside-down. I noticed a small dot marking on the rings and i took it to 3 local machine shops/auto parts stores and all of them agreed that the dot must face up so they now are. I had them all mixed up. As for the oil rings them self i said that i had them overlapping, well that would be impossible. I could not have them overlapping in anyway, there would be a gap and i didnt want to force anything. As for the intake thank you ryan for the advice, there was i tiny puddle in there. I noticed it after i turned it over a few times. As for the PCV system, well i changed the PCV valve hopefully thats what you ment BogusSVO. Picture coming soon. Also I will attempt a start tomorrow its dropped in but not wired yet... had work.

It stoped smoking completely since ive fixed the placement of the rings, but now it has absolutly NO POWER AT ALL i mean its scary slow. Also it drinks GALLONS of fuel, im talking i drove it 10 miles and from a full tank to 3/4 a tank. Someone told me it sounds like a timing issue.

After a few hours of deep thinking and reviewing of all the issues ive convinced myself it is not a timing issue but a fuel issue. I suspect that somewhere along the fuel system there is a major issue. I suspect that I didnt notice the problem earlyer cuz I thought it was only lacking power due to the blown hg.

Now im sure it must be fuel related, for one the way it drinks gas would make a mac truck blush. Two it reeks of fuel under that hood. Three there is a shhhhh sound coming from the area near or around the injectors and I think it maybe ether the fuel rail clogged or the injector stuck wide open. Altho im no mechanic just like anything else to much of one thing is a bad thing.

So my plan is to buy a few new injectors and maybe a fuel rail and see what happens. In the back of my mind im thinking. hey if the injectors are stuck wide open wont that just make it rev high and accel quicker, but then I think no cuz its just flooding the motor. Is that right or am I just plan wrong.

Whats your plans for the car? Might be time to add a wideband if you plan on going that route. Rich is not good either as too much fuel and you'll loose power so no, more fuel =/= more power. If an injector is stuck open, definitely you'll be losing power and probably be damaging your engine.

How long did u drive it? Pull a plug and see if they are all black?

My plans for the car is daily driver, later on a auto-crosser. I did pull all the plugs some had more black on them then others, the #2 and #4 plugs were wet with ether oil/gas and #4 stunk of gasoline. Also i unplugged the O2 sensor on the headers and the car ran better from 2800-3500 rpm untill it got warm. After that it was sluggish and smoking as before. Ive driven it for a total of 23 miles since the rebuild.

I took off the headers and o2 sensor and tryed to drive the car. No smoke but still drove very weak. I assumed if it was needing a wideband o2 if i took it off maybe that would show a difference but nope. So i agreed with my friends thought that maybe it was the timing. took it apart timing looked great, then i thought maybe the sprockets were placed wrong but it seems rite to me. What do yall think.

Exhaust Side....

Use photobucket or this pages upload photos option. Works great.