Natural aspirated mods
 

Considering the following and wonder what the net gross hp gain would be on my 97 m.

JR CAI 10 HP
Catback exhaust 4HP
Sludge (polish) intake manifold 8HP
Timing advance 14 ?

New to miatas so any feedback would be appreciated

8.46 hps gained. Can you feel the powa and throttle response!

Hope that helps

Not sure if trolling or really that stupid.

Came from building corvettes so no not really that stupid. Clarifications. 14 on timing was degrees. Sludging a manifold is polishing the inside. All the HP gains noted were from vendor sites. Obviously take with a grain of salt.

To have genuine numbers, you have to do it this way:
dyno your car stock, then dyno it after bolting on each part, 1 at a time. You cannot go by advertised numbers. However, if you do buy all those parts, you will have wasted your money and could have put it towards a turbo. You will only be happy if you add boost.
/ thread.

What we're saying is you're are never going to make any power N/A. Hence you logged on to MIATATURBO. Posting your N/A mods is a total joke here. Maybe try Miata.net.

Might just take advantage of my vette experience and put an ls1 in it

Since when is polishing "sludging?" are you talking about extrude hone? What is a polished intake manifold even mean anyway? The intake isn't supposed to be polished. that's the exhaust side smarty pants.

And if you paid attention to my post, I did give you a real power assessment. Maybe about 5hp.

Ls1 swap? Do it! No balls...

Thanks 3gen. I didnt realize the limits of the post here to just FI. Won't make that mistake again. Got some real egos on this site.

www.miata.net

Go there. All your N/A info awaits.

It's not so much egos, as it is www.miataturbo.net. Hell, I have a supercharger and I still get flack but I don't take it personally.

Anyways, if you're staying N/A you're not at the right site. You'll find WAY more information and basic Miata N/A knowledge at miata.net forums.


Now on a serious note, if it's a 1.8L and you do intake, exhaust (with headers), timing bump and port/polish your intake manifold you'll be lucky to make 15hp extra. Miatas don't respond as well to bolt ons like Honduh motors do.

CAI don't really add any power, cat-back may net you 3-4 hp, add a header and hi-flow cat and you might net a total of 6-8 :)

Increase in timing helps the mid-range more than anything, totally worth running 93 for it too.

Best bet for n/a power is swap in a 99-00 engine, MSM intake cam, JDM/EUDM intake manifold(aka square-top), standard I/H/E and you should make 140-150rwhp on a good day :)


Sounds like an awesome plan!

http://www.v8miata.net/ will get you there.

This is a fantastic idea.
Smartest thing you said thus far.
If you're also smart enough to pull it off, you'll have a helluva car and we will respect you;)

If you want any noticeable power at all, you'll realize real quick at how patheticly slow an n/a miata is in a straight line.
Unless you're planning on road racing forget n/a.

Well even though I opened up the wrong discussion topic it's always good to get both sides. And I'll go one of three ways SC, TB, or v8. Other way just isn't worth messing with. I ended up with the miata over another vette because I really liked the way it handles. Rally fun car to drive. Problem is from the factory it's gutless horsepower wise.

NAh, this forum gives less crappy info about IHE and additive fictive numbers about electric superchargers and whatnot... :D

There is info and knowledge about real N/A builds in here is you search.

Get the flow up in the head, increase the compression and tune the cams, intake and header to the rev range you want to run.
There is nothing special about it, except that you don't start at 50 bhp/liter and that the ports are designed for boosted applications (i.e you have to know what to do to get results).

SC: Super Charged
V8: Vee Eight
TB: Tur-Bo?

:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Deep down, all of us want an all-aluminum Gen IV LS motor. It is, hands down, the best naturally aspirated mod you can do.

No simple bolt-ons here, but plenty of n/a goodness. And the sound...:drool:

We have built two, I still don't want to trade my turbo for one.

This is the best way to get a shitton of power. It just has a large up front cost.

For naturally aspirated power the biggest bang for the buck is buying a megasquirt and getting rid of the MAF. You will probably spend as much as all those other things and net more with the MS. I have seen NA cars pick up 10hp with just the MS and no maf.

Not to mention probably increase your gas mileage.

The most powerful N/A I know of is the FujiRacing ITB Miata:
That sounds expensive.

BTW, my personal "dream miata" would be a black NB with an aluminum LS swapped in, I'd want power in the low 300's, a high redline and light weight.

I have a pretty stout N/A car. It is an experience that few here understand. It is not cheap, but can be very rewarding.

I have no plans on changing my setup despite all of the flack I get.

Do you have a build thread? N/A had always had an appeal to me despite the expense.

I too agree with this, and I always watched those videos of that Fuji racing car. This one may be my fav:

It does take a lot of work though, and as far as this forum will tell you; it's most cost effective to just bolt on a turbo.
I make about 200whp now with a small turbo, and I get about 28mpg's driving in all throttle conditions. I doubt I'd see that kind of mpg's with an N/A setup.

Also, I don't think Fuji Racing is around any more, a google search didn't yield results.

Fuji Racing hasn't been around for a year.

Just to clarify, you're free to post here about NA mods, just know this thread is typical for the type of response you'll get. Those mods you mentioned get you 10hp or so, for Just a little less than a turbo setup that'll give you 60hp.

For example, most 1.6s will dyno at 90 HP.

$1000-1500 in NA mods will net you 100-105hp.

A $3000 FM setup will give you 150, and a $10 manual boost controller can give you 5-30 more, depending on the limits of the voodoo box, which I'm not sure of.

And FM's the expensive (high quality) option. Piece it together yourself and 3 grand will give you a stand alone ecu and 200hp.

If you want power from an intake i'd say join the CR forums.

If you really built motors i'm assuming you're after the real numbers, not the snake oil with the colorful ads...the advice here is real. Might not be the best choice of words but its the truth.

From memory didnt Hustler dynotune some ones N/A that pushed around 140whp? The person was running standalone but dont know what other mods. Still an expensive price tag for 10-15 hp gain.

"FujiRacing ITB Miata 210 HP/184 WHP. Redline 9000 RPM's. Engine Builder Raul Rodriguez Puerto Rico. FujiRacing 45mm ITB's-FujiRacing 4-1 Header-FujiRacing Flywheel-FujiRacing Cams-FujiRacing Underdrive Pulley-Stock injectors & valves.1st turn is very tight accelerating in 2nd. Just had this car at Nashville hitting 140 MPH on the banks. Idles at 1000 RPM's all day long. Connect 2 tight turns together and you get the idea.. No lag and no other induction comes close when it come to Instant Throttle Response. 184WHP Dynoed at Titan Motorsports. 2008 Redline Time Attack VIR Overall Street Class Winner. 2009 Redline Time Attack Nashville Modified RWD Winner. Next we will bolt in our most agressive cams. 200WHP?This engine's pistons are 10:5.1 CR w/slightly shaved head. Can you imagine a 13:1 or 14:1 CR. We are using 93 oct. pump gas."

My hat off to that car and driver, my overspun M-45 could hit 116mph [per GPS] at the end of the front before the decent into turn one lefty and turn two right-hand 180*. And of course I am not in the same league with the skill of the pro driver. LOL

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/11s-motor-9s-nitrous-46638/

My car and the Fuji car have different set ups, but have very similar performance in the way of acceleration.

His car has less compression than mine, but he has more camshaft. We are both listed on Dragtimes.com. My car outruns his by a small margin in the quarter mile, but he has just a tad more MPH. I think he is at 100 or 101, and I am at 99 MPH.

I would guess that he is making at least 10 whp more than me. My car I believe, has undergone more rigorous weight reduction. The only reason I would outrun him in the quarter mile is because my car is lighter and I am on slicks. His run was on radials. He still put down a pretty good 60' time though.

http://www.jenvey.co.uk/home/throttl...ody-kit-ckmz02
That kit looks like what I would buy if I ever went the N/A route. I think the NB setup uses an Emerald ecu. I'm not sure of the price, but I can say this: A small turbo with all the hardware on a stock miata engine and a megasquirt on stock injectors, is more cost effective in making power than headwork, high comp pistons, cams, lightening / balancing, ITB's, header, etc, etc.
I do like the idea of making a N/A 4 cylinder as fast as a small turbo application. I mean, who wouldn't? It's been said before and I'll say it again. The Miata 4 cylinder wasn't designed to be an inexpensive means to N/A power. If you want N/A power, get a honda engine. Ever notice how much space is on the exhaust side of a miata? In my eyes, it was a design that was meant to be turbo'd.

Might as well. We have a couple of those here. Mine's only a 5.0 but there are some LS1's. Or maybe you didn't know that it was a common swap?

When I say common, we suspect 400-500 Miatas are now V8 cars, best guess.

Man up

Turbo car was easier to modulate and far more peaky feeling. Some days I wish I'd done a built 4 cylinder and an MSM gearbox.

LSx swap guys to consider: http://www.v8roadsters.com/

Fixed. You're welcome.

Why does everyone forget what Emilio is doing with his NA VVT motors? 170whp with bolt on sounds fun to me.

I'm interested in more info. Is he running ITB's? What compression?

No he's not running ITB's, and no he won't tell you anything else. It was plainly secret in the 25hr thunderhill thread. And although a little disappointing, he has his reasons I'm sure.

Anybody know what the most powerful N/A VVT engine is? If 170 is doable w/ bolt ons then I'd imagine 200 would be doable w/ IRTB's, full exhaust, and a good 93 octane tune.

I remember this too. I asked him if he knew where the thread was but he didn't know. Something makes me think it was in the ramble on thread, too bad.

I highly doubt Emillio left any power on the table. Maybe he sacrificed a few for reliability in a 25 hour race, but not 30.

I was assuming that he was not allowed to make whatever modification he wanted, and the IRTB would net a little power, not 30, but some.

Spending money on an NA Miata?

mfw

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325224296

N/A Miata Thread:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=149036

Bone stock
NA6 90 whp
NA8 102whp
NB1 112whp
NB2 108whp

Give or take, that's what they make. Healthy junkyard NB1 and NB2 motors with I/H/E and ECU will make 140-145whp without too much trouble. A bit more compression, square top manifold and minor head work can bring that to 160whp. Lots of compression and mild cam up to about 175whp. Big cams, IRTB's, E85, 200whp+

Race reliable 25% power increase with bolt-ons is often enough for those not looking for only straight line thrills or drag racing.

Yeah... The Maruha/GarageOneHundred car.

If you're not talking an all out race car, Chikara Motorsports has cracked 190whp on a dynapack with a 1.9LVVT motor with all the fixin's.

Well I stand corrected. I'm guessing crusher "only" had 170 (right?) due to rule and reliability restrictions.