need input on build and planning of some components.
4 Attachment(s)
So I'm finishing up my 1.6 build and I want to make sure I do everything right.
I wanted to run a filter relocate kit. I have 2 reasons 1 I'm stuffing this in a festiva and don't have much room to work with. The other reason for running the relocator it will make for easy access to plumbing down the road if I want to add a cooler in. The problem I'm having is the nipple coming off the block is to long. I'm not running the sandwich plate and would like to remove it so is does anyone know if there is a smaller threaded nipple I can use? Or what thread it is so I can maybe search online? Last resort I was think of chopping and reeling buy it will need to be turned on a lathe. Also is there a way I can add a thermostat to filter relocator or do they make one with a thermostat? I just re did the oil pan to. I've never done one before I'm nervous if I did it right. I used honda-bond and let it set for about 5 minutes in my cold garage stuff was really sticky. I forgot to put it in the thread holes but I think it sandwiched into the threads when it torque down due to I can see some sealant on the end of the bolts. Thoughts? |
Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels
(Post 1302953)
So I'm finishing up my 1.6 build and I want to make sure I do everything right.
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I would just use a saw and cut the existing nipple shorter, and use a file to debur it. I did this on my car after buying a fitting online that didn't work correctly. Using the stock fitting and just cutting it shorter is best IMO.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1302955)
I have this weird twitch in my eye that won't go away
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He's just mourning the loss of a kitten.
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Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels
(Post 1302961)
what's the twitch for? I got your damper on there Aem cops,boundary pump, wisecos pistons, cat rods, Hella fab is doing the turbo manifold.....
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4 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1302959)
I would just use a saw and cut the existing nipple shorter, and use a file to debur it. I did this on my car after buying a fitting online that didn't work correctly. Using the stock fitting and just cutting it shorter is best IMO.
I know I saw some talk about adding stainless Brilo pads to the valve cover baffles to help the oil mist condense and drain back down. Is there any recommendations on which brand pads? Did you cut the pad is strip or leave them whole? https://m.facebook.com/ASCoatings/?t...urce=typeahead https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453968158 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453968158 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453968158 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453968158 |
Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels
(Post 1303065)
I know I saw some talk about adding stainless Brilo pads to the valve cover baffles to help the oil mist condense and drain back down. Is there any recommendations on which brand pads? Did you cut the pad is strip or leave them whole? |
Completely different feeling in turbo response. 13t delivers torque really fast, vf35 has a fantastic progression doing it, therefore, 13t makes it very difficult to control torque with partial throttle.
Both are able to destroy your 5sp. |
@kamel6k , I don’t know where you meant to make this comment, but my experience with TD04-13T on a stock 1.8 (USDM 1999) does not support your statement. I have total turbo / boost / torque response to throttle position, from 35 kPa to 210 kPa using a 150kPa spring and EBC: from 3000 RPM through 6000 RPM.
Put it your name in as I suspect you meant to post on a different thread, but got bitten by the “related threads” ‘improvement’. |
Roughly estimated the difference between the two will be about like a 2554 versus a 2560, and by that I mean there will be some difference but it's not going to be OMG night and day. Both will spool pretty darn quick and make plenty of power for a stock bottom end.
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