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need input on build and planning of some components.

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need input on build and planning of some components.

 
Old 01-27-2016, 05:07 PM
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So I'm finishing up my 1.6 build and I want to make sure I do everything right.

I wanted to run a filter relocate kit. I have 2 reasons 1 I'm stuffing this in a festiva and don't have much room to work with. The other reason for running the relocator it will make for easy access to plumbing down the road if I want to add a cooler in. The problem I'm having is the nipple coming off the block is to long. I'm not running the sandwich plate and would like to remove it so is does anyone know if there is a smaller threaded nipple I can use? Or what thread it is so I can maybe search online? Last resort I was think of chopping and reeling buy it will need to be turned on a lathe. Also is there a way I can add a thermostat to filter relocator or do they make one with a thermostat?

I just re did the oil pan to. I've never done one before I'm nervous if I did it right. I used honda-bond and let it set for about 5 minutes in my cold garage stuff was really sticky. I forgot to put it in the thread holes but I think it sandwiched into the threads when it torque down due to I can see some sealant on the end of the bolts. Thoughts?
Attached Thumbnails need input on build and planning of some components.-20160126_214219.jpg   need input on build and planning of some components.-20160126_214200.jpg  
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Old 01-27-2016, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels View Post
So I'm finishing up my 1.6 build and I want to make sure I do everything right.
I have this weird twitch in my eye that won't go away
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 01-27-2016, 06:01 PM
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I would just use a saw and cut the existing nipple shorter, and use a file to debur it. I did this on my car after buying a fitting online that didn't work correctly. Using the stock fitting and just cutting it shorter is best IMO.
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Old 01-27-2016, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
I have this weird twitch in my eye that won't go away
what's the twitch for? I got your damper on there Aem cops,boundary pump, wisecos pistons, cat rods, Hella fab is doing the turbo manifold. I know it's not a 1.8 but I got to work with what God gave me. So put some visine in to clear up your eyes.
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Old 01-27-2016, 06:12 PM
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He's just mourning the loss of a kitten.
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Old 01-27-2016, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels View Post
what's the twitch for? I got your damper on there Aem cops,boundary pump, wisecos pistons, cat rods, Hella fab is doing the turbo manifold.....
youre not helping
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:02 AM
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Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
I would just use a saw and cut the existing nipple shorter, and use a file to debur it. I did this on my car after buying a fitting online that didn't work correctly. Using the stock fitting and just cutting it shorter is best IMO.
Thanks for the input but I don't think there is enough thread. Maybe i should have a machinist tap the rod longer? Or if someone knows the thread size I can buy the tap.

I know I saw some talk about adding stainless Brilo pads to the valve cover baffles to help the oil mist condense and drain back down. Is there any recommendations on which brand pads? Did you cut the pad is strip or leave them whole?

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Attached Thumbnails need input on build and planning of some components.-20160128_013826_zpsblg9t8pi.jpg   need input on build and planning of some components.-20160128_014145_zpszt85xvk4.jpg   need input on build and planning of some components.-20160128_014244_zpsans50xk7.jpg   need input on build and planning of some components.-20160128_014130_zpsa5prnedy.jpg  
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Old 01-28-2016, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels View Post

I know I saw some talk about adding stainless Brilo pads to the valve cover baffles to help the oil mist condense and drain back down. Is there any recommendations on which brand pads? Did you cut the pad is strip or leave them whole?
Dont do it. After researching it, not only do you not need it, but it can make oil migration even worse. Setup the PCV properly on the pass side with the vent on the drivers side.
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Old 02-10-2019, 05:34 PM
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Completely different feeling in turbo response. 13t delivers torque really fast, vf35 has a fantastic progression doing it, therefore, 13t makes it very difficult to control torque with partial throttle.

Both are able to destroy your 5sp.
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Old 02-10-2019, 09:17 PM
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kamel6k , I don’t know where you meant to make this comment, but my experience with TD04-13T on a stock 1.8 (USDM 1999) does not support your statement. I have total turbo / boost / torque response to throttle position, from 35 kPa to 210 kPa using a 150kPa spring and EBC: from 3000 RPM through 6000 RPM.

Put it your name in as I suspect you meant to post on a different thread, but got bitten by the “related threads” ‘improvement’.
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Old 02-11-2019, 09:42 AM
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Roughly estimated the difference between the two will be about like a 2554 versus a 2560, and by that I mean there will be some difference but it's not going to be OMG night and day. Both will spool pretty darn quick and make plenty of power for a stock bottom end.
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