New Harmonic Balancer from SuperMiata
 

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345083605
The picture above shows a balancer for another car but this gives you and idea of what the Miata damper will look like.

10% off for the first 15 customers!

We have developed a new Harmonic Balancer for the B6 and BP series Miata engines with BHJ Dynamics. The pulleys are billet steel, the hub is billet aluminum. The one piece construction eliminates the four little 5m bolts that like to shear off at high RPM. This balancer is exclusive to 949 Racing/SuperMiata and will be also available through our dealer, Trackspeed Engineering.

What engine needs a new harmonic balancer?
The balancer does not increase power nor is it necessary on N/A engines using the stock redline. Where the balancer is critical is in high power and/or high rpm applications. Forced induction over 250whp? Redline over 7800rpm?
With either of those conditions you are well past the design limits of the OEM balancer. Excess vibration is hammering the bottom end of your engine and the tiny pulley bolts are stressed to the max. This balancer is sort of like adding billet oil pump gears; no extra power but a necessary materials and design upgrade to cope with the much higher loads of a high performance build. Insurance.

Trigger wheels
The optional proprietary trigger wheels are available in 12+1T and 4T. The 12+1T wheel can be used for 12-1T or 12T ECU applications with the appropriate tooth nipped off. The 4T is for 96-05 cars using the OEM triggering configuration. Those using a 1.6 style CAS triggered ignition can delete the trigger wheel and save another $107. OEM style trigger wheels will not fit this balancer.

Pulleys
Both pulleys are OEM diameter: 147mm inner, 130mm outer. Those with 1.6 engines will need to convert to 1.8 4-rib water pump pulley and alternator. No provision for 6 rib or 3rd pulley for Superchargers is currently planned. If you want an S/C pulley version, send me an email and I'll start a list.

Weight
The balancer is about 3.75 lbs. That saves about 1.4 lbs over the OEM part. This is about the minimum we can build and still have the required mass at the correct location to do it's job as a balancer.

Design and engineering
BHJ is a small engineering based company in Northern California. For this balancer, the actual crank vibrations and flexure were measured to come up with the design. This part is not a random guess by some guy with a big CNC mill ;)

Some links describing the engineering processes:
Mathematical Torsional System Modeling
Dyno Test Validation
Evolution Design
Click here for a comprehensive technical document on harmonic damper purpose and operation.

Installation
This damper is a one piece design so it presses directly onto the crank. Ideally, you will use a harmonic balancer installation tool which can be purchased from BHJ or rented from us. Alternatively, you can cob up an installer from washers, bolts and axle grease but that requires some experience to do it right.

Ordering
The first full production run will run sort of like a group buy only the price will not change. You can order from 949Racing/SuperMiata or Trackspeed Engineering. The first production run will ship early October.

• SFI Certified
• Designed and Crafted in the USA (California!)
• Billet aluminum hub
• Billet steel pulleys
• One piece press on design
• 3.75 lbs (OEM is 5.15 lbs)
• 12T or 4T trigger wheel option

Cannot wait. Theseus broke two sets of balancer bolts last year, and when Rover broke a set earlier this summer, that was the final straw. I can't wait to get my hands on these.

You knows I'm in this one...

I'm also a member of the broken bolts club. Way cool piece Emilio. Thank you for continuing to innovate.

I assume I can't reuse my factory '99 timing wheel? I'd have to get a new one with the pulley? Anyone know what buttons to push in a Hydra to use the 12+1wheel or if it can use it?

Edit: I just realized what I said about reusing the old wheel. Never mind. Still, would the hydra use the 12+1? Might as well upgrade there too

Ugh would have bought if it was a week earlier

Payday on Saturday, will order then.

Must I pull the engine to get to this since it requires a press? If I break the timing belt, must I pull the engine to swap it out? I've never dealt with this type of press-on damper before so I'm effectively retarded. Will it work with the TSE 12-tooth wheel?

Damper has to come off to do timing belt. Drop sway bar out of the way to install. As stated above, not compatible with any other timing wheel other than the one we offer for it.

Oh, so broken bolts is not just me....

Why no 36 tooth option?

36t
 

Little demand. Send me an email about it. If I get enough requests I can do it cost effectively. To do just one will run about $150 for the trigger wheel.

Hi Emilio.

Is this superior to the ATI or Fluidampr? If so, why?

vs $107 for a 4T/12T wheel or on top of the $107?
Also how do you torque down the crank bolt without using a crank tool, like this one -
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345096570

^Car on the ground, in gear, E break on?

Dunno. Ours is simpler, lighter, costs less and was developed by actually measuring forces on a Miata crank.

vs $107. I was wondering how to torque it myself. I'll ask the engineer it it's necessary to machine dowel holes in the face and make a tool for that or something. How does one torque a fluidampr or ATI?

I assume process is similar to ati damper:

1. rear wheels on ground
2. car in gear, brake on
3. remove sway bar
4. remove raidoator for funses
5. lube crank with sweet tasty lube
6. mallet damper onto crank end
7. put biggie crank bolt into crank
8. take air gun out of ass
9. AIR GUN THE EVER LIVING SHIZ OUT OF BOLT
10. win

ftfy.

The last time I torqued down the crank bolt with "car on ground, in gear, e-brake HULK TIGHT", the crank bolt loosed it way out and started eating away my crank key.
like this - https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...nkshaft-66813/

well that's only $43, or like 10% more + whatever extra wait time. sounds good to me.

One of these bad boys will be going on my new engine. Too bad they're not available today, I'd just ask TSE to throw it on for me. Oh well looks, like I'll be doing a coolant flush in october.

:laugh: Its funny because its 200% true.

I remember watching the 25hrs of TH and one of the teams pulled out an impact to tighten a crank bolt and promptly sheared it off, ending their run - thoughts of what dumb-ass team would use an impact to tighten a crank bolt?

How do you get the damper off with the engine in the car?

How much added protection does this add above already having billet oil pump gears?

Can you switch from the 4 tooth to the 12+1 tooth trigger wheel easily?

I am guessing I need to get the TSE 12+1 trigger wheel so that I can get it to the MS devs to get VVT working with it.

'Twas one of the Super Truck teams...

Is the construction still a rubber ring like the OEM that will move (poor balancing and timing marks that move around)?

If bought without the trigger wheel, are the attachment points so can it be added later (yours or homegrown)?

Guessing its elastomer and thus not as easily rebuildable as the ATI damper.

That thing is sexy and I must have one, but don't own a Miata anymore. What to do?

That is a silly question, you just buy another Miata.

OK well I used a regulated air gun and it was fine. This bolt is the biggest damn bolt in the car. It's supposed to be torqued to 150lbs.

The alternative is to hone the crank some so pressing it on isn't quite as hard.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345138448

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345138448

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345138448

I'm in like pen0rs in hustler's mouth.

We already have a drawing for 36-1 wheel so no delay. If you are one of the first 12 orders, it'll be the same $107 intro price as the other wheels.

Reverse of install procedure.
1. 11
2. Yes
3. So it is absolutely clear (as stated in OP as well): You can not use any other trigger wheel on this damper. Only the proprietary wheels we offer will fit.
Trigger wheel mounts to hub, so it's easily added later. Timing wheel is fixed to crank position, not subject to pulley movement.

Homegrown would be easy for somebody with a full machine shop. It's just a plate but cutting the teeth with precise edges requires more than just an end mill.

Regarding the use of elastomer
Dampers used for high performance or racing, eventually need to be rebuilt. We can't specify a rebuild interval because it varies with usage. For most street only cars, one could expect the damper to last a decade or more. For cars that see regular competition, it is recommended to manually verify timing marks against TDC every year or so. This is something we have always done with OEM dampers on our race cars and will continue to do even with the SPM damper.

Heat affects the life of any damper that uses an elastomer. This is one reason we opted for an aluminum hub. The better the airflow over the damper, the longer it lasts.

Update on weights.

The damper will actually weight closer to 3.75lbs with trigger wheel. OEM is 5.15lbs with timing plate and bolts.

Ordered mine

Do you have to remove the damper from the timing belt pully to do a timing-belt job? I'm not sure that it's actually required. This would change things for me.

Crap, it's getting to be an expensive week!

is it possible to make one with a single v belt for us festiva guys?

What, nobody has a torque wrench that goes to 150+?

^ I've used math and my body weight and a 1ft wrench to torque for large numbers. Sometimes I've had to adjust the length of the wrench.

Also I've never had to remove the timing belt to pull the crank pulley. The other way around yes. The crank pulley should be able to be swapped with out messing with timing.

Plus I ordered one. Thanks to Emilio for answering my questions earlier.

Far easier to just convert your water pump/alternator setup to 4-rib.

Just ordered one. Still have to add the timing wheel at a later date.

By the time it comes available I'll have probably some more items I'll need, and or change the shipping to Canada

Thank you for offering a needed product at a decent price. Im sure my old 265,000km OEM one was spent this and this gives my partially assembled built engine some more assurance of a long and steady life.

That is a nice piece of work.

Crap. I actually need those four little bolt holes for my SC pulley.

Sorry. We would have had to make too many concessions on the design and raised the price significantly to accommodate supercharger pulleys.

As mentioned before, if you want us to do an S/C specific design, send us an email. If we get enough deposits, we could do one with a larger diameter 6 rib outer. It would be an entirely new design and probably lower volume so the cost would be higher than our current one.

Fortunately, it will fit mine just fine :)

Does no one use the "rope trick" anymore?

The dampers will have provisions for removal and installation integrated into the design.

2nd damper production run
 

More dampers available!

We sold out the first batch much sooner than anticipated. Orders placed before today (October 5) should ship towards the end of next week.

New orders placed after today will ship around the first of November.

Emilio, you know I'm in on this, but could you expound on the process for removal on this thing? You told Hustler:
And linked a bunch of pictures of random pullers. The above statement is VERY british. I have a Bently manual for my Triumph and its littered with references like that. The problem is that we don't know what that install process is, only that it requires the "special tool" or "washers, bolts and axle grease." You also stated in the OP that:
so I can't tell if I need an inside or an outside "claw" puller or if the face of the thing has tapped holes to accommodate a "duck foot" puller, or if the magical tool will also work for removal. Your google image link primarily shows duck foot style pullers, but there are claws pictured as well... Remember, us peasants haven't seen final production pics on this thing yet ;) A picture can be worth 1,000 words (and thus a 5 minute install/removal video is worth 9,600 words!)

Sorry if I'm being overly retarded, I'm just trying to understand, old bean.

The removal tool is proprietary. The damper has threaded bosses in its face. The installer is a cylindrical block with port for a breaker bar. The installer will be available to buy or rent from our site and possible TSE as well.

To install, thread small bolts through the installer into damper. Insert breaker bar through port to keep damper from rotating. Torque main bolt.

To remove use claw type puller.

Now the vvt engine just needs a harmonic balancer built into the intake cam gear. Would be awesome to be able to rev a vvt head higher than 7,500.

Wonder if it would solve the harmonics issues?

This pulley is going on my shopping list for when I attempt to build a new bottom end for sure. Thanks for bringing another option to market. The price difference practically pays for OS valves. :)

Andrew at TSE assured me when he convinced me to go with a built VVT engine, rather than a 99, that the supertech valve springs fix the harmonic.

That is awesome to hear. Had no idea, Thanks for the input.

Almost there. The supplier doesn't usually coat the damper so the outer steel ring would eventually rust. We decided to delay the dampers a bit to have the outer rings clear anodized. The anodizing raised our cost but I kept the retail price the same.

I added the ano because I know most of these will actually end up on street cars, daily drivers in some cases.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1351533475

Clear? Come on. Everything coming out of your shop needs to be orange.
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/atta...8&d=1248980979

Hey now, I want to see these released by the end of the year.

I thought about that but decided to keep things simple and clean. We'll be offering BE's complete oil pump assemblies soon and again, I had to resist asking for them orange anodized.

Son of bitch, shit. Is this like a game for you?

Marginally pertinent question:
Does this damper make the engine feel like its NOT beating itself to death over 6000rpm? Eventually I want to yang this engine out, do ARP mains, BE pump and gears, 949 CK pully and 4-tooth. I also understand those parts along are worth more than the engine, lol.

I look forward to the "track reliability pack" discount.

I don't think the damper will make that much of a difference that you can notice it from the driver's seat. I have driven BP's with the ATI damper and not noticed anything. The BP's I have driven that were fully balanced however, felt far smoother than any other BP. The best were like a long rod ratio Honda inline 4 in smoothness.

The two things we seen broken the most from mechanical over revs are bent valves and dead main bearings. Mostly the valves. In one instance, a cracked main cap. ST single springs shimmed for another 10# or so of seat pressure good to high 8's. Above 8700-8900, you need the dual valve springs. You pay a price in seat wear, cam wear and heat with the monster valve springs though.

For mains, just run lots oil pressure, race oil with lotsa zinc and King or ACL race bearings. We try to configure things to keep oil temps below 240 and ideally in the 220~230° range. That takes a 10-15 row Setrab and -10 lines. If the oil system is dialed it should still be close to 30psi idling hot and 70+ on top.
Stocker without a cooler will see 10-15psi at idle and barely 55psi on top when the oil is cooking at 280°. That kills mains.

I need to get off my butt and put together an oil cooler kit for the site.

Race oil?