You are running 17v when driving it?

Wouldn't that cause some problems with the coils getting oversaturated?

If (having Megalog Viewer show 17v for vbatt) = (running 17v when driving it), then yes. (no intended sarcasm, just making sure i'm 100% clear with the situation. And I don't have any other evidence of what the voltage should be).

I ran an entire season at well over 20psi without the slightest hiccup from my Toyota COPs. I would ASSUME if they were really seeing 17v, I'd of experienced an issue. But again, I have no idea what I'm talking about so it's hard to say.

Alright, I know I mentioned my brother had the same issue with his MS3x which was my old MS3x. I just remembered another detail (sorry it was over a year ago we had the issue) - after the firmware upgrade I putzed around with Wbo2 offsets to get Ms to match the lc2 gauge - yadda long story yadda - I ended up copying his old settings by hand instead of letting tuner studio do it automatically. Much use of compare msqs were involved, export/import table. I think I discovered voltage was reporting correctly on a new project basemap, that prompted the fix.




No idea what caused it.




And no, the alt was not outputting 17v - verified with my fluke dmm.

You're saying a brand new map from scratch could help, right? I'll have to try that. (Side note: I too have to manually load my WBO2 calibration into tunerstudio for my LC2.

One possible new clue: On a recent drive, CLT now showing at nearly a solid 179.9 - even when it shouldn't be. It occasionally jumps to <100 for a split second. Something is obviously wrong here. I guess this is another clue that something 5V is failing in the ECU? TPS doesn't seem impacted though. Outside of Reverant, who can I sen this ECU to for work?

New log attached.

Not just a new map - a brand new project. I have no idea how or why nor did I bother investigating or trying to recreate - I can do a lot of hand waving and thoughts about "it could be" eeprom corruption without looking further into some of the code. Another affect we noticed was the MAT sensor would report a single value - again, cleared up once we effectively started from a fresh software environment.

Conversely, if the ECU thinks you have 17v and you only have 13v you may find the dwell generated inadequate.

Additionally, if the ECU thinks you have 17v but you have less voltage then other gauge readings may be incorrect and the ECU may be compensating adversely-- Temp, MAP, O2, etc.

Makes sense. My only question is, what changed? In other words, why did the issue abruptly start this year and why under certain conditions does it happen?

If the 17v is the issue, any pages/posts you'd recommend I start reading from regarding how to fix it?

Side note: I replaced the coolant temp sensor and now it's working properly again. Also, in tunerstudio I noticed my "Injector Drivers" under "Engine and Sequential Settings" is set to "Additional Drivers." If it is set to "Standard Drivers," the car barely idles. Doesn't that seem backwards?

Their is no way that you have 17V on your electrical system while having 14,4V on the batterie. Their have to be a voltage divider on the pcb to measure the input Voltage from the MS. Either the resistors are wrong or the look-up table of the firmware doesn't match. On the other hand, the internal adc may be broken. That would also explain your problem with the other sensors. But first i would measure all resistors on the pcb and update to the latest firmware

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Yours is only the 2nd instance I've seen, and it's a weird problem to boot / difficult to google. But first thing we need to verify is that its the same problem/bug.

Additional vs Standard - that's expected. You're only running the 2 injector outputs on "standard" IIRC.

ECU is back out of the car. I'm now trying to figure out how to assess the voltage situation. I'm so fed up at this point, i'm ready to cross my fingers it's ECU related, and blow $900 on a new MSpnp2.

900 hundred would not be a "blow" if it solved your problem and got you back on the road. Put it in perspective, if it was a shop, you'd pay 3000 at least.

I would not expect the car to run well on BKR7s at 25+ psi. Get some BKR8E-IX and leave them at the standard gap. My car would not run past 12psi (GTX3076) on the 7, I'm now running 28psi (was on stock coilpacks for 3+ years, now upgraded to R8 coils just for apperance reasons).

Edit: Also, 5ms on the coils and running them at 17V is a big no-no. The CLT that is stuck at 179*F is a sign that the sensor or wiring is faulty.

Only problem is if I put the ECU in, and it still has the problem.

BKR8E-IX are ordered. New CTL sensor is in and working. I'll put the plugs in, bump coils down to 2.5ms.

I'm still going to order the Reverant/Braineack MS in the meantime I think.

BKR8E-IX installed at standard gap with 2.5ms nominal dwell. Made zero difference.

If i measured 13v at the injectors, but my MS showed 17v -- I would simply calibrate my battery voltage in software so the MS actually read the correct voltages...

$840 for new megasquirt and it's still doing the exact same thing (although the voltage is now reading correctly...). Headed to the liquor store.

look on the bright side. OK so maybe there isn't a bright side. Sorry man.

Have you tried Evan Williams? Inexpensive with positive results.

At least you ruled out the ECU now.
With all the parts you have replaced now, my bet is some wiring issue which either leads to the ECU loosing sync (although I think I did not see that in the logs?) or the coils not getting enough current to dwell correctly.

The ECU very rarely loses sync and when it does, it's not under load (I suspect it's the 36-2 trigger wheel not talking with the ECU on start up or when RPMs dip too low - e.g. letting the RPMs dip too low when slipping the clutch from a start). There's certainly no obvious correlation between losing sync and the car's issue.

If the coils aren't getting enough current to dwell, any thoughts on what could cause this?

Thanks again