jonboy

Hi

After a very long build (probably close to 4 years now), my car is back on the road after having the engine rebuilt with upgraded internals...

Current spec:

1.8 block
Supertech low comp pistons (8.5:1?)
Chinese rods
Boundary oil pump gears
VVT head
VICS inlet manifold
550cc RC Eng injectors, FFWD fuel rail
Begi large intercooler
Begi cast manifold
0.64 AR GT2860RS
FM turbo elbow & 3" turbo back exhaust
Adaptronic controlling everything
6 speed box, FM Stage 2 clutch

Currently everything is running in, my tuner says that he recommends 1000 miles run in to iron out any kinks before putting it on the dyno and remapping it - it's about 200 miles in so far.

Recently I picked up the turbo setup from this nice chap: https://www.miataturbo.net/meet-gree...ild-nb2-81008/ - so I have a very lovely tubular manifold with an externally wastegated GTX2860R to replace the log mani and disco potato:



I'm thinking the next limiting factor in how much power I can get from it is going to be the RC 550 cc injectors, so do you think it's wise to go with ID1000's and an uprated pump / regulator, or do you think I'll get away with the 550s if I'm trying to keep the power levels sensible to stop me destroying a 6 speed box? It's primarily a fun / street car, so I'm not looking for monster power - with 300ish at the wheels and decent response I will be pretty happy..

I'm also considering swapping the adaptronic for an MS3 - the adap wiring loom is a total mess, and it's all getting on for 8 years old now (it's one of the early e420c's) - a new loom is special order and will cost a fair bit (and I'm too lazy to build my own loom) - will MS3 give me much over what I have, or is it just change for the sake of it? My tuner is happy mapping adaptronic, but has a lot more experience with MS...

Thanks

Jon

18psi

iTrader: (76)

toss those RC's into the trash where they belong. they have no business being on a car with those lovely hotside parts, and definitely won't hit 300whp willingly.

early adaptronic units were a disaster, I had one. there's a reason you see them for sale for less than half the price they were new. ms3+ all the way

jonboy

I guess that's answered that then...

Is the stock pump (with a relayed feed from the battery) should be up to the job of supplying enough fuel for 300whp, correct? I'm using the NA return fuel system. Unfortunately the dual feel fuel rail doesn't fit with EU / JDM inlets so it's now a single ended big bore rail :(

To be fair on my adaptronic, it's been fine so far (touch wood) - everything has worked as expected, it's just getting on a bit..

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I doubt the stock pump will support 300. I'd get a dw200 and not have to think about it. pretty cheap too

dw200+flow force injectors and you're good to go. or a couple hundo more for id1000's and have even better injectors with even more headroom.

chicksdigmiatas

iTrader: (11)

Yes, I have to second the ID 1000's. Opens you up for E85 later when you want it as well.

A perfect world new stock pump from mazda MAY support 300. I bet his wonr, and it will be good piece of mind for as cheap as they are.

jonboy

The Flow Force's are 640cc aren't they? The guy who sold me the hotside parts has a set of 620cc EV14's for sale, but it sounds like I'm probably better off waiting a few weeks and getting a set of ID1000s and doing it properly...

chicksdigmiatas - I'm over the pond in the UK so E85 isn't a thing here - the closest we get is 99RON which is about equivalent to your 95 premium gas...

adryargument

iTrader: (1)

Flow force are a company, they sell EV14's in 640, 1000 etc etc.

jonboy

Sorry - should have made myself clear - the majority of flow force injectors people talk about on here are the 640s...

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

I don't think Nigel has 1000 cc injectors

chicksdigmiatas

iTrader: (11)

If you don't need the head room for E85, these would probably suit you.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

The collector on that manifold looks amazing

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

Jeebus

Some quality snakes you have there.

jonboy

Cool - I may drop him a line and find out if he still has them... It'd save me a fair few quid over a new set - at the moment it's balancing how long it's actually going to take me to get it all fully running with decent boost, vs. how much cash it's going to cost me to get there! If 1000's are the better option, I may put it all off a month or so and save up the extra - but at some point I am going to have to get it working in one form or another as it's been sat around doing nothing for way too long!

Yep - it's a work of art...


Unusually, the collector is machined as a single piece. Apparently the fabricators that made it have built a lot of highly abused drift cars and it stands up better to 'extreme' usage a bit better than standard...

18psi

iTrader: (76)

they are absolutely right: that's where 90% of the cracks happen. it looks great

nigelt

iTrader: (10)

Flow Force Injectors are nominally 640cc, but in reality, each set is matched on flow rate and will be somewhere in the range of ~640 to ~670. Early sets were sold as 610cc, but I'm now using a more accurate conversion factor from test fluid to gasoline. So if the injectors in question are listed on the flow rate card as ~620cc, it's actually 645cc at 3 bar, or 745cc at 4 bar, FWIW.

mreakus

Who made that? I see in the old thread it was "e_1" but searching comes up with nothing about them.

jonboy

The kit was put together by a small company in the UK called Ardler Automotive, who have since stopped trading. The manifold itself was made by Nortech Performance- High Performance Motorsport Development

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Since you have a built motor I would suggest saving up a little more and just going with the ID1000's now and skipping the FF injectors. You will upgrade to the ID's eventually anyways, so might as well buy them now and save some money long term.

jonboy

I got the EV14s in the end - the guy I picked them up from did me a stellar deal on a diff and injectors, so I'd have been stupid to turn it down... I found out that the supposed 3.9 Torsen that I was sold was actually a 4.3, so at highway speeds the thing is buzzing it's nuts off... So I've got a 3.6 Fuji Tochigi diff from him, the idea is to pull the clutch unit out and swap it with the type I torsen from the original 4.3 that I had....

I think I'm going to have to put my sensible head on and break the car up into long and short term plans - if I fit the new turbo, hold out for a set of ID1000s, new fuel pump / regulator and upgrade to MS3 I'm gonna be looking at the end of the year before it's ready, and then the weather will suck. If I just fit the turbo and EV14s now, go get it mapped I can use it for the rest of the summer with a reasonable power level, pull it back off the road at the beginning of winter and sort everything else over then ready for spring..

The 'other' car project is a v8 110 Defender (which is one of the reasons the 5 has taken this long to get back running) which is waiting on a 4.6 v8 swap - I'm better off getting that done in autumn as it's more suited to using in winter than the '5!!!

YeboGoGo

iTrader: (1)

How are the Chinese rods? I've seen some lately and they are cheap... Very cheap!

I'm on the fence because for $200 to save a $5k motor seems to be a no brainer