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Old 12-04-2010, 04:09 PM   #1
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Default No Oil Pressure

I've taken off the Oil feed line and no oil is coming from there either.
My car is a 97 and I reused the stock pump during my build.

I've started the car once already and I had oil pressure. I had the car running for 25 minutes with no issues.

Yesterday, I go to start the car and the needle doesn't budge. I confirmed there was no oil pressure by taking off the oil feed line while cranking it over. nothing came out.

Today I took the allen key plug out of the oil pump and filled it with oil. I tuned the engine over and the oil came out.

There are no odd sounds or anything and apart from no oil pressure, everything is fine.

Is the cause of this a bad oil pump???

I've had some people tell me if my bearings are bad it might cause no oil pressure as well but i'm hoping they are full of it.

All input will be taken in and loved.

Thank you for all your help, you've come through in the past and i'm hoping you do again!
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Old 12-04-2010, 04:22 PM   #2
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Either a stuck oil relief or bad oil relief spring in the pump body. Couldn't really be anything else. Likely stuck relief since it had oil pressure before. You don't mention it directly but your wording makes it sound like this is a newly assembled motor? Sometimes a piece of debris can from a first start can wedge between the relief and the pump housing.

Then again, I could be completely wrong. I'd rule out your bearings. Only way that would be possible is if your clearances are WAYYYY off. Like a whole few hundredths too big or more.
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Old 12-04-2010, 04:35 PM   #3
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yes, this is a newly assembled motor.....

This is the second time I ever started it... the first time there was oil pressure, this time, not even a hair of it.

Glad I can rule out the bearings, whew!

Is there any way to "unstick" the stuck oil relief spring?????
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Old 12-04-2010, 05:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Preluding View Post
yes, this is a newly assembled motor.....

This is the second time I ever started it... the first time there was oil pressure, this time, not even a hair of it.

Glad I can rule out the bearings, whew!

Is there any way to "unstick" the stuck oil relief spring?????
Take off the oil pan and replace the spring, stopper, and cottor pin.
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Old 12-04-2010, 05:10 PM   #5
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A newly built motor with a used oil pump is just asking for bad news. Even a new aftermarket pump is better than a used one with a bunch of miles.
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Old 12-04-2010, 05:25 PM   #6
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ya ya, i know.... looks like i'll be talking to Travis soon.
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Old 12-04-2010, 11:24 PM   #7
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still haven't taken out oil pump.....waiting to borrow a friend engine hoist.....

not gonna have the coin to buy boundary engineering oil pump till after nye....HINT HINT travis give me a deal better then 397.00!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-08-2010, 07:28 PM   #8
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Any updates on the problem?
While rebuilding my last motor I found a stuck oil relief plunger. My mechanical oil pressure gauge never went above 40psi, even on cold startup.
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:21 PM   #9
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I had the same problem on my BP when I first swapped it in. Drove the car 30 miles with great oil pressure parked it got in the next day no oil pressure. I took the motor out sold it to a buddy after I put new bearings in it and ran a little tiny hone down the oil pressure relief valve hole and got a new spring and plunger. He has been running the motor for 2 years now with no problems.
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Old 12-09-2010, 12:00 PM   #10
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wow, well by the sounds of it...its definitely the oil pressure relief valve dumping everything.

The temperature dropped to well below freezing over the last week and my garage isn't insulated so I haven't been going to it.

Next time i'm out there I'll see if I can get an air tank and send 100psi through the pump backwards to "unstick" things. Then change the oil/filter and crank it over again.

I'm really trying to avoid pulling the engine again. Crawling underneath and disconnecting the downpipe/transmission mostly. The rest I can handle...

I'm still really really newbish to engine construction and would prefer not to touch anything if possible when it comes to that.
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Old 12-09-2010, 12:17 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Preluding View Post
wow, well by the sounds of it...its definitely the oil pressure relief valve dumping everything.

The temperature dropped to well below freezing over the last week and my garage isn't insulated so I haven't been going to it.

Next time i'm out there I'll see if I can get an air tank and send 100psi through the pump backwards to "unstick" things. Then change the oil/filter and crank it over again.

I'm really trying to avoid pulling the engine again. Crawling underneath and disconnecting the downpipe/transmission mostly. The rest I can handle...

I'm still really really newbish to engine construction and would prefer not to touch anything if possible when it comes to that.
I hate to tell you this but the likely hood your airpressure fix will work is slim but i wish you luck. I know all to well how frustrating this little **** can get with oil leaks pressure issues etc.
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Old 12-09-2010, 12:42 PM   #12
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Theoretically you do not have to pull the engine to fix the relief valve. If you unbolt the engine mounts and just lift the engine a few inches you can pull off the oil pan and replace the spring and such. It will just be a royal PITA.
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Old 12-10-2010, 03:04 AM   #13
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Theoretically you do not have to pull the engine to fix the relief valve. If you unbolt the engine mounts and just lift the engine a few inches you can pull off the oil pan and replace the spring and such. It will just be a royal PITA.
I wanna see you clean and reaply silicone to seal the pan effectively from this angle, while a 400 lbs engine is hanging over your head. That is neither safe nor fun.
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:19 AM   #14
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I wanna see you clean and reaply silicone to seal the pan effectively from this angle, while a 400 lbs engine is hanging over your head. That is neither safe nor fun.
I know exactly how hard it is.... I had an oil pan leak throwing copious amounts of oil into my transmission bellhousing on my last build.... Took the trans off and lifted the engine a bit to change oil pan... it is doable, it is NOT enjoyable.

I'm trying to think of anything else I need to change while the engine is out.... everything is brand new. I feel like I should at least inspect bearings, not sure how this is done though with my limited experience.
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Old 12-14-2010, 08:14 AM   #15
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Borrow a little air pig from a friend last night. Filled the Oil feed line with some thick oil and shot 100psi down it a few times.... no luck... Looks like this is unavoidable.

Another question if anyone is listening though. Can I lift engine enough with the top of transmission attached to take off oil pan????
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Old 12-14-2010, 11:43 AM   #16
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I have heard it is possible but it is not worth the trouble if it does work. It only takes a few hours to take the motor out and put it back in so just do it. I know it sucks but it would suck way more to spend more time trying to not take the motor out then just taking it out the first time.
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Old 12-14-2010, 11:53 AM   #17
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I've pulled my motor and dropped the pan in situ; taking the subframe out is by far preferable.
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Old 12-14-2010, 11:53 AM   #18
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I wanna see you clean and reaply silicone to seal the pan effectively from this angle, while a 400 lbs engine is hanging over your head. That is neither safe nor fun.
I did not say it was easy, or safe, just that it was doable. I have watched spec miata people do it at the track before. I pulled my engine when I needed to do that stuff because I knew it would be a PITA to do with the engine in.
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Old 12-14-2010, 12:15 PM   #19
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How hard are the subframe bolts to get at.... are rusted bolts usually an issue (I live Salt and Snow territory) What do I need to get for it to drop.

Calipers, Shocks tops, subframe bolts... that it?
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Old 12-14-2010, 12:44 PM   #20
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I had no issue witht he subframe bolts. The 4 near the back were covered in factory undercoating. The two on each side near the control arms broke free with no drama as well. I live in the mid-atlantic area; the local DOT loves their salt.

To take the subframe out you have to remove:
swaybar
lower shock bolt
calipers (let them hang off the shock)
steering rack
motor mounts
subframe (support the trans with a jack before you drop the subframe)

I did this on the ground with the help of a friend. Removal took 4 hours, installation took another 5 or so while tidying up some things and bleeding the brakes (unrelated). Both ways were done with copious amounts of alcohol
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