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Old 02-21-2012, 05:09 AM   #1
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hello, I just got a nicely set up FM turbo car that I want to set up for the road track de events. I could use a little help picking some parts and just want to make sure i'm not overlooking anything. I'm doing my own custom set up because I have almost all the parts I need from previous projects so I would like to use what I can or at least know what I need to see if it is worth reinventing the wheel.

what I have.
lots of AN 10 stainless lines and fittings, all that I will need
- Canton racing thermostat (22-480) see link
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-22-480/
AN Reducer for thermostat installed (-12 AN O-Ring Male to -10 AN (23-465A)
small Setrab core. 5.5 inches x 6.5 x 2 (male 10 AN fittings installed)

1.Which Mocal oil filter relocation parts are best suited to the Miata? do you guys use the stock oil filter size or do you go up to something larger?

2. will this core be large enough for track days? if not what size should I chose? I was planing on mounting the core in the wheel well. I'm not against buying a fan if I need it but I dont want to block the radiator or mount it too low for obvious reasons. I also might add a duct something in the bumper cover if needed.
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:30 AM   #2
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I wouldn't use that thermostat or any relocation kit. They just add weight, complication, and potential leak spots. Use a mocal plate that has a built in thermostat and a stock filter is fine. That seems like a small core, but also thicker than I'm used to seeing, I think most of the non-rx7 cooler guys run more like 1" cores.

If this is a 1.6, you'll want the oem stud and water spacer to space the sandwich plate out and have better oil line possibilities.
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:59 PM   #3
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I tried a setup like that with seperate thermostat and oil filter relocation and it sucked. My oil pressures were significantly lower (15-20psi). It also introduces 3x as many points to leak oil from. Get the mocal plate with built in thermostat and if you want to run a larger filter try 7317 filter as minimum, largest I have found that fits easily is STP2903 or whatever other brand you can get in the same size. I remeber using summit to find filters with same threads that could still seal on the filter seating surface on the block or spin on adapter.
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:10 PM   #4
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wow 20 psi!, clearly I need to get the oil gauges hooked up before I do anything to the oil system. the listings for Mocal parts says 20mm so I guess I will order the sp1fp. any reason to not do 10AN throughout, since everything I have is that size?
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:19 PM   #5
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-10 hoses are absolutely required.
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:00 PM   #6
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ok, pretty sure i've seen people doing 8AN and well I dont know much about fluid dynamics, but logically larger diameter lines means slower flow but perhaps that is better for cooling. as for pressure, i guess bigger lines create less of a bottle neck but then a high volume system at some point puts strain on the pump.

I think I'm going to ditch the canton thermostat , the thing is the size of a tall boy , but I found my mocal stand alone thermostat so I will use that.

correct me if I'm wrong but tech support told me the integrated sandwitch thermostat not only bypasses the cooler but it bypasses the filter as well. now that may not be a big deal for track cars that get up to temp fast but for street cars in cool climates it seems important to have a standalone unit. plus if I need to use a larger core replumbing will be simple with a standalone unit. astand alone unit can also be good for packaging, using 90 degree fittings if the lines need to make an abrupt change in direction,

as for leakage, a good an fitting connection is not going to leak, ive found connections that were little more then hand tight and did not leak at all.

do you guys remove the stock water oil exchanger or is there enough space to put the sandwitch adapter on top of the stock cooler?
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:12 PM   #7
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I use -8 hoses with the filter relocated to the right front frame rail, easy to change the filter, no mess and still get 58-60 psi while driving, and 40 at idle. I never had the mechanical gauge installed before I relocated the filter, so I don't know if it changed. Here are a few pictures of what I did, if I wanted to, and I still might I could go from the filter out into an oil cooler and then back to the engine. But it works great. I use a WIX 51069 filter.

Sorry for the downsized images, I do not have the originals anymore.
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oil cooler build questions-downsized_1007001121.jpg   oil cooler build questions-downsized_1007001121a.jpg   oil cooler build questions-downsized_1007001122.jpg  
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psreynol View Post
as for pressure, i guess bigger lines create less of a bottle neck but then a high volume system at some point puts strain on the pump.
-8 lines were a problem on my car, I had to switch to -10 to get pressure back up. I don't know the magic math behind it, don't care, because I'm ganxter. People who do -8 are typically virgin posers who live in their mother's basement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by psreynol View Post
correct me if I'm wrong but tech support told me the integrated sandwitch thermostat not only bypasses the cooler but it bypasses the filter as well. now that may not be a big deal for track cars that get up to temp fast but for street cars in cool climates it seems important to have a standalone unit. plus if I need to use a larger core replumbing will be simple with a standalone unit. astand alone unit can also be good for packaging, using 90 degree fittings if the lines need to make an abrupt change in direction,
I'm fairly certain oil goes through the filter, but I'd have to look again.

Oh, looks like I'm right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by psreynol View Post
as for leakage, a good an fitting connection is not going to leak, ive found connections that were little more then hand tight and did not leak at all.
Have fun playing with fire.
Quote:
Originally Posted by psreynol View Post
do you guys remove the stock water oil exchanger or is there enough space to put the sandwitch adapter on top of the stock cooler?
There is enough space, the little threaded spacer thingy will work.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
-8 lines were a problem on my car, I had to switch to -10 to get pressure back up.

can you tell me what size ports you have on the sandwich adapter?
the stuff i have for the relocation is 5/8 I think, and I have 10an fittings for it but i'm a little worried that could create a bottleneck. the mocal adapter has much larger ports and also 10an fittings which i will use if I decide to leave the filter in the stock location.


I'm fairly certain oil goes through the filter, but I'd have to look again.

Oh, looks like I'm right.

ok, I'm not sure, only going on what the tech guy told me but it does seem pretty silly that it would be designed to bypass the filter until temps are achieved.

Have fun playing with fire.

yeah you want them tight, just saying they are pretty reliable when done correctly and if something is loose it will likely start with a small leak. obviously engine fires do occur and taking the oil out of the motor is a good way to increase the chances of one but personally I don't think the fittings are the weak link.

I don't like the way the threaded tube adapters are set up because you cant tell if the threads are threading into the block or the adapter piece and often they are not long enough to go all the way into the fitting and still bite into the oem cooler or block which means the plate could potentially only be held in place with a couple threads so you gotta be careful especially when you take the filter on and off. perhaps one more reason to relocate the filter in my mind.

I'll do some more checking about the sandwich adapter thermostat and find out if what the guy said about the filter is true.

There is enough space, the little threaded spacer thingy will work.
good to know.
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