i really need someone who can help me with this situation.. i have a 92 miata with a 90 1.6 turbo engine. everything went in smooth and there is no check engine light on but somthing is wrong.. when you first start it up and drive its fine, it goes through the whole rpm range with no issues.. buttt once it warms up it starts to feel like its pulling a trailer all the way untill u get to like 3800. not wot but just using ur big toe. when u mash on it it runs fine but just normal driving is when it does it and i think that strain is causeing it to overheat. i thought it was the tps so i put another tb on but i still have this issue... pleaaase help i dont know where else to look. no vacuum leaks and tps is fine..

 

car overheats so u replace a throttle body lololz?

probably need more info. how many miles on motor i wouldnt be surpirsed if it was a blown head gasket.

 

the car overheats because of this power lag so i change the tb.. the motors got 45k. there are no problems with the timing,radiator,thermostat, and vacuum. and i have a little ihi turbo with a front mount ic. which could partially explain the overheating but where is this power lag coming from?

 

Please list everything installed in your car with respect to the turbo setup. Fuel, electronics, hardware, software, etc. And if possible post an ecu log if you have a standalone that allows you to do that. This is the only way you are going to have a chance at getting any helpful input.

 

ok its a 1.6 long nose with a stock ecu, FMU setup, a walle 255, warner-ishi turbo with a fmic and thats it. i kept the a/c and p/s on and am running the afm still. when your cruising in second for instance, the lag starts at like 2500 and feels like its dragging untill you reach like 3800. you can hear the turbo spooling like the engine is struggling. but as soon as you get to like 4k, it frees up and the vacuum goes back to where it should be.

 

I'd bet dollars to doughnuts your tune is fuxxored. You're probably having fueling issues from 2500-3500 rpms.

Get a real ECU

 

yea.. well im just gunna reroute my cooling and then start saving for a ms.

 

O2 clamp

 

huh? like where the o2 sensor plugs in? and i checked my timing and it was waaaaay off so i bumped it down cause it was too advance and making it run like ****. i think i fixed the issue but still gunna do a reroute because i live in 120+ desert

 

Once the car warms up, you will automatically run more close to stoich(leaner than start up). So going into boost cold will be at a more boost friendly AFR.

If you go into boost after warmup while the stock ECU is still in closed loop, it will try to maintain stoich (14.7 AFR) by pulling fuel even though you might be adding with increased pressure or larger injectors.

An O2 clamp sends a lean signal to the ECU when you go into boost so that it does not try to pull fuel. The stock ECU goes into open loop around 4000 rpm.

This may or may not have anything to do with your overheating; but the engine does run hotter running lean; but it should cure your lack of power.

Once you go into open loop, the ECU will no longer try to maintain stoich

 

Check for an exhaust restriction

 

thanks for all the tips guys