god wouldn't it be funny if his rad cap was failed?

all 2 of them. I am getting a new one tonight any recomendations on how many pounds to get? In the past Ive had a mishi 19lb on and a vatozone 22lb. Maybe go lower this time? FM recommended 16lbs on their site.

16lbs if you run coolant.

22-23lbs if you run just water.

when you say water I assume you mean wetter water with water

I have no issues at 14 psi.

Any particular brand. I really doubt this will fix it. I will be overjoyed if it does.

So I put on a 16lb and it didn't boil over and ran pretty good hut still got up to 220. I think a lot of that has to do with the flush in the system. I went ahead and drained the flush out tonight and it was dark brown. I refilled with distilled water ran the car and drained again. More brown water. Tomorrow I'm going to pick up more water and keep flushing till it comes out clear then ill add wetter water and post results.

Car runs cooler around 205 - 210 only overheats when I turn on the ac then shoots up to 235 does anyone think may ac settings in tunerstudio may be causing the ac compressor to work to hard causing stress and more heat in the condenser?

Does ur 2nd fan turn on with the ac?

Fans are wired parallel so they both come on at 190.

Did you put in a heavier line for the fans or just jump them both to an existing line? Jumping to the existing line will not allow them to run at full speed. When they are both on with the A/C turned on, they are separate feeds.

They are wired with 16 gauge automotive electrical wire and are set up where they share the same ground per hakunas install guide.

I would have assumed that pretty much anyone with a brain on this site would have known that when you run a "100% water mix," it's pretty much assumed that Water Wetter goes with it.

Have you considered the possibility that the Mishimoto fans suck dick?

True. However just wanted to be clear.

I bought silconeintake.com fans that many miata guys recommended. Mishimoto fans havent been in for a week.

I find it bizarre that the temp is lower than it has ever been with the ac off yet as soon as I turn it on the temp goes so high as if all my work went unnoticed. Before the new fans, ducting, flush, reroute. With AC still reaches the same temp. With out AC the temp has drop reasonably normal with new fans, ducting, flush, reroute. Seems to me that the problem may lie in the AC system or tune for the AC. Could the condenser be clogged from the inside similar to a radiator clog?

I keep reading around on numerous different car forums(not just miata based) and most people seem to pin point it to the radiator. My Mishimoto radiator is 2 yrs old(maybe I can get a replacement) If not Im going to buy a slimmer 37mm Koyo as they seem to be pretty good from what I hear. I dunno into deep at this point. Even with all the issues I dont plan on giving up till I fix this.

So the magic funnel came in today and I got out all the bubbles. When ac comes on bubbles start to come u. Everytime the ac engages more bubbles. Without ac on the bubbles stop and system stays air free. Could the condensor be straining the water pump

The condenser is completely separate from the radiator system so i dont see what the connection would be. The only change between the ac on vs ac off is there is 10hp extra load on the motor. Now yes the ac rad goes in front of the regular rad but there shouldnt be much heat coming out of the ac rad.

Your engine is working harder when the A/C is on. When you engine works harder, it produces more heat. When your engine produces more heat, your coolant gets more hot. When your coolant tries to get more hot than it possibly can at atmospheric pressure it boils. When your coolant boils, you get air.

This is the reason I'm personally against the "magic" funnel. If you are the type of person that honestly thinks a "magic" funnel can do a better job at getting coolant into your radiator than you can with a regular funnel while watching it when the water level sinks, then you are probably also the type of person that doesn't consider that the water, just before leaving the engine, regularly approaches and attempts to surpass the upper extreme of it's physical limits. Your coolant, when idling, should be within a few degrees of atmospheric boiling before your fans come on. Add in a heat exchanger in front of the radiator and running only on fans, I would be shocked if your coolant DIDN'T come to a boil at atmospheric pressure.

This is why Galileo invented the pressurized radiator cap. He knew that at some point in the future, men would have miatas, and their cooling systems wouldn't be perfect, and they would need to be able to maintain a higher than atmospheric pressure while still allowing for heat based fluid expansion.

Use a magic funnel to fill your coolant only when the engine is cold. After the engine warms up and the thermostat opens up once, fill it one last time and cap it. Leave it open to atmosphere any longer than that, and you're not removing air from the system, you're introducing it.

If ur engine overheats while producing 20 hp theres an issue.