I know little about rod bearings, but even if you had the rod machined down, would the mazda bearing work in it?

I am trying to source some stock b18a honda rods and some pistons on the cheap so i can test this all out. If it does work, then I will probably redo the motor I am building now to this setup.

A shorter piston and longer rod does not give you more displacement because it does not create more stroke, unless you mean when combined with a stroker crank.

That's what I was thinking and couldn't justify it in my mind how it would do that. I read the article above wrong and thought it was saying that it as possible with a shorter piston and long rod. Seems to me that you would have the same travel either way.

i have seen people do the short piston/long rod before to get more optimal rod:stroke ratio.... aka be happier revving higher.

but there wouild be no displacement from that.

Any updates to this info?

Bump

Update: This motor uses Scat rods.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-G...0/DSC_0688.JPG

I measure 1.874" on the big end bore.

I was searching for rod bearings. The markings I see on the bearing are "TAE 0.25 RBH30 4B". Google led me to built Civic motors using Scat rods. I checked, and whaddyaknowit, the ARP rod bolts have Scat inscribed on them.

Bryce,
This is an amazing thread. Over 2100 people have viewed this. I'm sure there are many people who are willing to try this. Could you please do a recap on the parts to assemble this? It would be great to list this as a build sheet that we can print out and start our own builds. Thanks for your time and effort.

If there are part #s and the exact info on the crank I would have this in my car and tuned before the end of the year. Hoping to slap a vvt head on.. See some sweetness..

Sub'd for final parts list. Bryce: Thanks for keeping the thread updated!

Like rharris and brgracer said, it would be nice to find out who exactly has the experience to do the offset grinds. It's not like OEM cranks are hard to find, but I don't want to be a test mule either :(

Sounds like win & awesome

Hmm. OEM crank is like $150. I want to build another motor for when I sexplode this one up.

Question is though, are these pistons and rods 750hp pistons and rods?

in for part numbers......please :drool:

I'm going with Pauter rod's and JE piston at stock displacement for my '99 build up but have not yet decided on what cam's I will use.

Are you talking about 1.6,1.8 or 2.0 crank's? I have a friend with a shop and he does everything all the way down to making custom billet part's. He made his reputation back in the '70's building all sort's of racing engines, he is a engine master and walking encyclopedia of knowledge. Just wanted to put that out there.

1.8 cranks. Its getting harder to find people who have real experience with this. Back in the day, offset ground OEM crank was really the only option. Its only been relatively recently that the aftermarket has made things like quality offset cranks available to the enthusiast. Offsetting is getting to be one of those 'lost art' things, kinda like guys who know how to pour babbitt bearings for flathead Fords.

With the appropriate crank measurements I will have no problem finding someone to grind it.
Its not that difficult. Socal has many shops that can make it happen.
I have cranks and blocks ready for this.

i THOUGHt I mean I thought you sold your setup?

OK, so what do we know at this point?
Get B20B4 rod (from junk yard maybe)
Get B16A3 piston (from junk yard also) Compression may be important, but the point is to see if it is a short piston.
When you machine the big end of the rod to fit the Miata crank, which bearing would work best- Miata or Honda>(machined down also)
I would think installing this into one of the Miata cylinders would give you how much more the Honda set-up is sticking up in comparison to the stock Miata set-up. This distance, would be how much you would regrind the crank to achieve the correct height.
Then, couldn't you just order the forged rods and pistons at the compression ratio you want . I would run this idea buy the machine shop and see if we're on the right track.
I'm sure there's stuff I haven't thought of, but the point is to try to think of ways to solve the problem.
-Jeff

I didnt sell anything. The crazy ass set up is still for sale.
I have a block though regardless or turbo. i hope that Garrett picks me up for next season too.
So a turbo shouldnt be a problem for me.

Anyway, I am think I may just try and do this on my end. I will have the shop measure everything and have JE make custom psitons, get approptiate and /or custom rods and have the crank welded and reground for a stroker.

Shouldnt be too pricey.

You could just have the machine shop measure it and then order everything and it will be correct. Its simple math to figure this out. Call the piston company and figure out exactly what they can do. Find a rod that works with the amount of rod angle you shop is OK with and then just have the crank reground to fill the rest.

bamm. I kinda want to do this now..

If you are going to try this out, can I attend your party? I need parts for another motor.