Tstat question
#1
Tstat question
This is a full track car.
My runs are not that long. I do run in super hot weather i.e. vegas in August.
My coolant system will run from the rad to the waterpump out the back of the head to a Tstat/ temp gauge housing to the top of the rad. Short and simple.
What Tstat do you folks run? What do you think I should run?
stock, 160* or nothing??
Thanks
Jeff
My runs are not that long. I do run in super hot weather i.e. vegas in August.
My coolant system will run from the rad to the waterpump out the back of the head to a Tstat/ temp gauge housing to the top of the rad. Short and simple.
What Tstat do you folks run? What do you think I should run?
stock, 160* or nothing??
Thanks
Jeff
#4
The 160, I'm not sure. Some sort of perceived gain I guess.
As for no tstat, I ran my car like that for a while because I had 2 of them fail on me and seal shut. Not fun when you think its OK and you get stuck in traffic with your car overheating like hell. Took forever to warm up, but after that everything was alright.
As for no tstat, I ran my car like that for a while because I had 2 of them fail on me and seal shut. Not fun when you think its OK and you get stuck in traffic with your car overheating like hell. Took forever to warm up, but after that everything was alright.
#5
Tour de Franzia
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I have no problem staying at 180* without fans due to my ducting and home-grown belly pan in 100* heat on the track. using a 160* t-stat is only going to make the car run too cold and run warm-up enrichment.
#8
Tour de Franzia
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I guess starting at 120* water temps may work for your run...but what about longer tracks?
I ***** this everywhere but see the metal divider 1" from the top of the bumper mouth?
That's the only air the radiator sees, and the car makes tons and tons of power, and can spend the day behind traffic and not overheat. Chamber, duct, belly pan, vented hood...win. Most of that you can do with $60 in plastic, a box cutter, straight edge, zip ties, and a drill.
#9
Elite Member
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i agree with what hustler said.... even running the factory bellypan my car came down 1-20 degrees over not having it.
but that being said, since you are full standalone, you shoul dbe able to change what temp your car is defined as being warm-up enrichment so you can run a 160 if you are still overheating.
but that being said, since you are full standalone, you shoul dbe able to change what temp your car is defined as being warm-up enrichment so you can run a 160 if you are still overheating.
#11
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Are you running with a coolant reroute?
If so, try it without the t-stat. I've been running my car without one for more than 6 months without issues (if I don't use the a/c lol). I think you need to read these 2 threads: https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/c-condenser-questions-47053/ and https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...ight=extractor
If I were you I'd do the Mini Cooper hood scoop and run without a t-stat. A local drifter (he has a Sylvia) runs that way and never overheats.
BTW, we have 90 degree weather all year round.
If so, try it without the t-stat. I've been running my car without one for more than 6 months without issues (if I don't use the a/c lol). I think you need to read these 2 threads: https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/c-condenser-questions-47053/ and https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...ight=extractor
If I were you I'd do the Mini Cooper hood scoop and run without a t-stat. A local drifter (he has a Sylvia) runs that way and never overheats.
BTW, we have 90 degree weather all year round.
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