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Old 12-21-2009, 12:23 PM   #1
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Default Rods? Brands?

I am getting ready to put a new block in my car. I have blown the other one up and am using the FM hydra kit at about 230 to the wheels on a mustang dyno at about 10psi. I have been looking at in-expensive rods for the motor since I am on a budget. I have looked at the following rods for the motor. Eagle, 949 racing, and M-tuned would like everyones opinion. I believe I am going to stay with stock piston as I was told these are very strong and I don't want the cost to get out of hand and I need my car back soon. Any information would be great.
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Old 12-21-2009, 12:47 PM   #2
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While you have it apart, I think you may as well do some forged pistons.

I sent you pm.
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Old 12-21-2009, 01:15 PM   #3
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Bill Miller Engineering
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Old 12-21-2009, 01:19 PM   #4
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who is bill miller?
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Old 12-21-2009, 04:32 PM   #5
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We've used the Eagle rods before. Also had a customer use Scat rods. Both have worked well for our customers. And, if it were me, I'd go ahead and do the pistons while the motor is apart.
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Old 12-21-2009, 07:02 PM   #6
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who is bill miller?
They are high dollar aluminum rods. We just had a thread about it, and threads about many other connecting rods. Try doing a search, you will find most of the answers you are looking for.
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Old 12-21-2009, 07:09 PM   #7
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You should rethink the pistons. Once you do the math on a new set of OEM pistons and rings, forged pistons are only another $150 or so. I was going to do OEM pistons as well to reduce costs, and once I worked through the actual costs it didn't make sense.
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Old 12-21-2009, 07:18 PM   #8
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Carillo A-Frame rods will handle most everything you throw at them. If you *think* you are going to exceed 300-whp, step up to the H-Frames...

(At least that's the route I've taken.)

- L
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Old 12-21-2009, 07:20 PM   #9
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what kinda pistons and rings should I get then I believe I will have to have the block bored out.
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Old 12-21-2009, 08:35 PM   #10
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Remember: Our Rods come with ARP 2000 bolts. Many don't come with the double the cost ARP 2000 variety.

Pistons : Good idea, but stock are good for 300hp if tuned correct. I've beaten a 300hp stock piston Miata around Shannonville Racetrack (Lapping Day) for an entire day without issues and then driven the car with the same motor for another 20,000kms before pulling it out to put in a very expensive built engine.

* This motor used the same OE rings/pistons, just the rods were changed. (Compression on the motor was good)

I'm building and engine for my personal car this winter, and will probably stick with stock pistons. They are plenty strong if the car is tuned correct.
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Old 01-28-2010, 09:29 AM   #11
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I am contemplating the Eagle H-beam rods that are been sold on EBAY for $339.00.

Do the H-beam rods and engine need to be checked by a machine shop or is it similar to buying OEM rods that are direct bolt ons?

Any suggestions?
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Old 01-28-2010, 09:47 AM   #12
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Quote:
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They are high dollar aluminum rods. We just had a thread about it, and threads about many other connecting rods. Try doing a search, you will find most of the answers you are looking for.
Why would anyone run AL rods on a street motor???? AL rods are great for a light reciprocating assembly in a drag racing motor; they suck for anything else! How many AL rods do you see in NASCAR? None, they are notorious for stretch in anything but a drag racing motor!
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Old 01-28-2010, 10:10 AM   #13
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I am contemplating the Eagle H-beam rods that are been sold on EBAY for $339.00.

Do the H-beam rods and engine need to be checked by a machine shop or is it similar to buying OEM rods that are direct bolt ons?

Any suggestions?
First, you may as well look around on here for m-tuned or 949/belfab rods. They are as cheap (or nearly so) as what you are quoting, and you will be supporting one of our friends, instead of some offshore bullfuck.

Second, you absoFUCKINGlutely need to check small end clearance on anything you buy. You are going to plastigauge your big ends, you are going to check your small ends. There was a thread on here of damage done with tight pins. I had a belfab/supertech combo on which the pin was tight, same pin with my Carrillos was money. YMMV. My local NAPA charges $60 for 4 pin fitments.
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Old 01-28-2010, 10:19 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psiturbo View Post
I am contemplating the Eagle H-beam rods that are been sold on EBAY for $339.00.

Do the H-beam rods and engine need to be checked by a machine shop or is it similar to buying OEM rods that are direct bolt ons?

Any suggestions?
Buy the M-Tuned rods from Marc at M-Tuned. They are currently on sale for $299 plus shipping I believe. Then go with the supertech pistons for $365 from no limit motorsports.
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Old 01-28-2010, 11:09 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psiturbo View Post
I am contemplating the Eagle H-beam rods that are been sold on EBAY for $339.00.

Do the H-beam rods and engine need to be checked by a machine shop or is it similar to buying OEM rods that are direct bolt ons?

Any suggestions?
FWIW, I put eagle rods in and reused everything else; pistons, wrist pins, even bearings. Everything fit together perfectly and I didn't have anything looked over by someone that actually knew what they were doing. Obviously not the ideal build, but it can be done.
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Old 01-28-2010, 12:19 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by pdexta View Post
FWIW, I put eagle rods in and reused everything else; pistons, wrist pins, even bearings. Everything fit together perfectly and I didn't have anything looked over by someone that actually knew what they were doing. Obviously not the ideal build, but it can be done.
I've had a friend do the exact same thing with M-Tuned Rods.
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Old 01-28-2010, 12:19 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Buy the M-Tuned rods from Marc at M-Tuned. They are currently on sale for $299 plus shipping I believe. Then go with the supertech pistons for $365 from no limit motorsports.
Thanks!
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Old 01-28-2010, 12:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webby459 View Post
Second, you absoFUCKINGlutely need to check small end clearance on anything you buy. You are going to plastigauge your big ends, you are going to check your small ends. There was a thread on here of damage done with tight pins. I had a belfab/supertech combo on which the pin was tight, same pin with my Carrillos was money. YMMV. My local NAPA charges $60 for 4 pin fitments.
Follow Weddy's advise if you want your engine to live. Miking the big end of the rod (torqued, with bearing inserted) and the crank is a more accurate way of determining clearances but Plastiguage is easy and cheap for DIY. Also, keep in mind that many high end rod "failures" are caused by incorrect torque on the big end fasteners. If you really want to make sure your rods are assembled correctly you need to torque them to the bolt stretch specification provided by the rod bolt manufacturer. Torquing to the specified lb/ft number often does not yield enough bolt stretch on a new rod bolt which can lead to premature failure.
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Old 01-28-2010, 01:00 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdexta View Post
FWIW, I put eagle rods in and reused everything else; pistons, wrist pins, even bearings. Everything fit together perfectly and I didn't have anything looked over by someone that actually knew what they were doing. Obviously not the ideal build, but it can be done.
You did this yourself at home?
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Old 01-28-2010, 01:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psiturbo View Post
I am contemplating the Eagle H-beam rods that are been sold on EBAY for $339.00.

Do the H-beam rods and engine need to be checked by a machine shop or is it similar to buying OEM rods that are direct bolt ons?

Any suggestions?
We had to machine the motor to match the Eagle Rods and pins. They were not direct bolt in. But have worked great so far.

We buy them from a reputable dealer who has been in business for almost as long as us. I don't know that I would buy them off e-bay, but I would not hesitate to buy them from my dealer.
Stephanie
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