Friend of mine had his car stop on the highway. He took it to a garage that tested compression and told him his motor was shot. (95K)

Brought it to me for timing belt/water pump, which seemed uneventful. It was off a few teeth.

A cold air intake has been installed and the wiring adapted, but unknown how well done.

Can not get the car to start. On first try it seemed to "diesel" for a few seconds and died. Does not fire when trying to start at all afterward.

Symptoms:

No tach movement.
Full fuel pressure good when pump runs jumped out.
Small, weak spark when first turning over but does not continue.
Plugs dry.
Fuel pump starts for short time when trying to start and then stops.



Replaced or swapped with known good or new and checked:

Main relay
Crank Angle sensor
Cam Angle Sensor
Both coils
Checked all fuses and power to all areas checked seems good.
Verified Crank Angle Sensor line back to ECU. Ground OK
Battery fully charged
All correct lights on dash on.
When cranking with OBDII reader connected, shows as 239rpm. No other codes present.

Before I tell him he will need to take it to a dealer and get raped, I need some ideas.

 

Crank and cam sensor distance measured?

 

You need compression for a motor to run. Although I doubt all four cylinders went out at once, does it sound even when cranking? No stronger puffs on one or two cylinders than the other?

What were the compression numbers?

 

only because you said you did the timing belt:

is the crank trigger on backwards?

 

Crank distance about thickness of a credit card.

No adjustment on cam distance that I know of.

 

Original crank trigger left in place while doing TB. Replaced afterward in same position.

EDIT: You are talking about the plate? Yes it is on correctly.

 

Original compression number told to be almost nothing. Have not checked since doing TB. May be time to do so, but should have had something firing.

Seems to be no signal to spark or injectors. Don't want to think it is the ECU yet. Do not understand how the immobilizer might affect spark and fuel if it is FUBAR.

 

Any other thoughts?

 

Compression test supposed to be warm and at 300 RPM

Motor is cold and not turning fast, but all cylinders are even at about 170psi.

 

My 1.6 with a lower compression ratio and a tiny motorcycle battery make 150-160. You may have blown all four cylinders some how.

 

Does he know if it was overheating or not when it "just died"? Any signs of overheating? Make sure there is coolant in the radiator? Checked the oil level/color/smell?

 

leak-down test?

 

Sorry, in my haste I missed the "1" it is about 170 across the board.

Oil is good, radiator was full when I got it. No signs of overheating.

Pulled the crank pulley to verify trigger plate. Was and is OK.

 

Did you 'test' or replace the main relay?

Yeah, big difference between 70 and 170 lol. The latter should fire.


Have you checked the fuel filter?

 

Replaced the main relay.

Didn't check fuel filter but I get a very fast 60psi in the line that comes into the engine bay.

 

Additional information:

The Red with Black stripe line that goes from the immobilizer to 3S on the ECU is +12 volts.

This seems to be the only connection between the two.

 

Swap a MAF?

 

Not yet. It's a bitch to get at below the TB on pressure side of turbo coming up from the IC. Is this the way the stock Mazdaspeed did it? Looks jerry-rigged.

 

No. That's some Mazda-Speed forum crap lol. It's intended to be suck-through and over on the driver's side of the engine bay.

 

Thanks.

Big difference! And they did some shitty wiring also.

Could be that pressurized air wiped out the MAF. I'll throw a good one on and try it NA before hooking the IC back up to it.