I'm putting in some Eibach valve springs - specs:


Eibach singles:
$180 from Summit. They claim 66 lbs @ 39 mm / 200 lbs @ 27 mm. Lift 12 mm / Bind 24.2 mm. Looks like a middle option in price and pressure from OEM to Supertechs.

http://performance-suspension.eibach...vs-catalog.pdf

I've done 350whp on stock NB2 valve springs, cams and retainers. 52-trim 0.86a/r 2871R, tubular manifold, 17psi with E85. You don't need springs unless you are going to rev the motor or add cams.

How long did it last? Did you make any power over 8k? I plan on cams eventually, I just want my motor to be able to handle whatever my tuner wants to throw at it, plus I want to take a it drifting every once in a while and idk if stock valve train gonna handle pinging off rev limiter that much.

Why do you need power over 8k? Is this a drifting club requirement?

Not at all im not a drifter i prefer a straight line, just wanted to know if people made power up there that's all!

So you have three things you want to do:

1) Rev unnecessarily high
2) Drift
3) Drag


And you picked a Miata. Well done.

The longblock was reliable, since it was built (by me). 7400rpm rev limiter. There's no reason to rev it to 8k when it makes 290ft.lbs from 4k up. It's not a Honda, so forget the notion that you have to be able to rev it to 8k.

With a turbo focus on your power goals not RPM. You will achieve them well under 7,200-7,400 rpms.

The RPM game is best left for those who are limited to NA or Rotrex SC.

With a larger turbo/slower spool or during an autoX event where you try to minimize shifting....wouldn't having our little engines able to rev to 8-9k be extremely useful?

Personally...I feel I run out of rpms very VERY quickly and while the power increase isn't anything special in that area it would prove to be useful.

So lets say I buy 74lb dual valve springs and have a block with acl race bearings along with some stronger rods/pistons.... I bought "9k" valve springs....is that my actual "safe" red line now?

please forgive the bastardized partially off topic post.

Sure, if you feel like building a really expensive head to increase your maximum 2nd gear velocity is easier than just swapping a rear end.

Well yeah.... because MSM.

If you have an oiling setup to support it, sure.

Hopefully I do...

Bouncing off my redline makes my penis try to crawl back inside my stomach. Fuck it, trailer has a winch.

I don't think spending a few hundred on valve springs a really expensive headbuild....

The want for just another split second before needing to shift = bouncing off redline in disappointment.

So in other words you dont need to build your head! Just set the rev limiter to 7500rpms. based from what everyone is telling you you wouldnt need to rev that high there is no power up there.

I can understand the point of wanting a few hundred more rpm before a corner or need to shift. I never really thought about using rear end gearing to achieve that, good point. I mean I should have as I'm always playing around with gearing on my dirt bike or atv sprockets (chain drive).

That's the point I was trying to get at.if I'm not making power up there I really don't need to build my head upgrade my turbo setup and maybe gearing instead?

If its auto-x, it doesnt need to make power up there, CSP cars certainly dont, the extra few mph is worth it to save a shift. For a real built ssm auto-x car you really need a powerband that covers 35 to ~72 mph in a single gear. You either do that by making torque below 3500 rpms and running a gear that gets you 72mph by 7500 rpms, or you start making torque at ~3500 rpm and tach out to 8500 and pee a little when you think about the forces on your poor poor rod bearings.

Right on the money...I honestly don't care if I make power up there I just want to be able to get there.

8500 would be a great area to be able to go before the next corner...